eyezack87

iTrader: (4)

If you don't find a Professional Detailer or you don't want to PC it yourself, you can try scratchX

http://archive.meguiarsonline.com/fo...&threadid=1516

^^how to do it by hand. Just be sure to stretch before you do it. I'm gonna help my friend do that tomorrow on his white avalon as a guinea pig test, if it works I'm gonna use it on my Gold ES :P

GSteg

iTrader: (15)

Just do what I do. Work inside the garage and after you're done with one section, roll the car back outside and check for halograms. But I dont really get halograms so I never need to check. If I do get halograms, it's usually light and can be quickly fixed outside in the sun

I can't imagine using anything other than Optimum in the sun. Not a fan of Poorboys

One HoT

iTrader: (5)

Good idea but Scratch X will only work in theory. It will only remove light swirls/scratches and as well as make your right arm 2x the size of the left one after your done..LOL...

You'll definitely need a buffer (PC or rotary) for heavier corrections...

Scratch X is great for some light hand polishing and touchups..

One HoT

iTrader: (5)

I like to use my rotary mostly so I get halograms when I work with mild/heavy abrasives..Because of this I noticed I work quicker in the sun, I also get to triple check my work when its done..This way I don't have to go back and forth..

Noticed the PB's SSR is not rotary friendly, made more for the PC user..It does not have a very long buff time, since it breaks down too easily compared to OP...Plus, its not as thick as OP so sometimes I can't tell if its completely broken down or if I'm buffing too little or too much...Other than that, it does the job just after a few passes...

Love the PB Natty Blue tho, works nice with certain colors...

tod071

If you plan to maintain it on a regular basis and keep it swirl free, I'd suggest getting a PC/UDM random orbital polisher and some polishes. If you just want to get it done with the least amount of effort, have it detailed by a pro. I don't think its necessary to wetsand. GS black is more than likely single stage paint, so it'll be fairly easy to correct your swirls.

How about posting some pics to see how big of "A Pain" you have?

Good Luck!

eyezack87

iTrader: (4)

Yeah, I see what you mean, all my light swirls are gone in my test spots, then we ran out of scratchX -.-". But, it was used on 2 cars for one tube with hand and a buffer so thats expected haha

Is there anyplace that sells the PC in stores? I went to Pepboys and autozone and no avail

jfelbab

I've seen them at some Home Depot stores.

eyezack87

iTrader: (4)

I have 2 within a 10 mile radius. Thanks for that tip, I'll go look there for it ^_^

Stokdgs

I used Zaino ZPC Fusion swirl mark remover, a Porter Cable 7424 Random Orbital polisher, and Lake Country Yellow and white foam pads. These vehicles were heavily swirled, had never been detailed, so I had a real challenge. I was able to get probably 99% of all marks out and in the process, wore out both yellow pads. The yellow foam pad is used for compounding, etc.. The pad and the excellent product did not introduce any scratches, etc., but got all of the existing crap off the paint just beautifully.
I started with a Dawn dish soap wash, to clean off all existing crap off the paint, the did a thorough claybar job to get all the stuck stuck to the paint off, and then the ZPC Fusion application with yellow pad and the Porter Cable. Sometimes I had to make a few passes on the section, leaning down hard on the machine to help it do its work. A rotary with the same pad combination would have been faster, but sometimes they leave marks in the paint that you have to then also remove. The Porter Cable or now the UDM, is the best way for not-too-injured-paint since it doesnt move in a circle like the rotaries do. The ZPC Fusion product breaks down and turns to a mild dust when its done so you can always tell when to stop and inspect the work. I also used the Zaino Z6 QD in between coats and used it on the foam pads to help keep them moist. I followed up with Zaino Z5 and then Z2 polishes with the ZFX catlyst, and the results were stunning under lots of 4' long shop lights in the garage. And now, Zaino offers an All In One product and a Clear Seal product that even has more longevity and shine..
You will always have to be careful when washing the car and use lots of soap and keep your wash mitt clean of dirt and crap. Some people even use 2 wash buckets one to rinse the mitt off between applications of soap and the other with the soap.
If you do anything I would strongly suggest that you only wipe the car in straight front to back motions, no circular motions, because that is what shows up on your paint later as swirls, spider webs, etc.. Just straight back and forth on the hood, top and trunk, and straight up and down on the sides.
Its black, its going to be like this forever. You have to get used to it or just ignore it, or take it to get detailed all the time.
I have had many black vehicles myself and currently own a black '06 Ford F-150 Harley Davidson truck. Takes hours to get it cleaned !
If you decided to sand the marks, off, I would strongly recommend using the highest grit possible, believe its up to 3000 grit now or more, wet or dry paper, and wet sand the entire vehicle carefully with lots of soapy water. then you have to get a rotary buffer out with wool pads to start and a 3M polish like Finesse it II or something and buff all those sanding marks off. Its a huge process and it happens in stages but eventually, if you didnt sand all your clearcoat off, it will look great again. The process I outlined with Zaino is a way easier alternative than this drastic measure. I would only recommend wet sanding it down if I knew how much clear coat you actually had, like after a repaint, where we knew how much clearcoat we applied.
Good luck with your project.. DanF