headlight restoration with 1500, 2000, PLastX
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12-08-10, 09:33 PM
#183
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Racist comments are entirely inappropriate and will not be tolerated on our forum.
Granted I'm using Google Tranlate for this...let's keep it in English so there is no misunderstanding.
12-09-10, 03:08 PM
#184
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Sometimes it is not always in your best interest to clean your headlights using the typical methods.
Headlight cleaning kits are really resurfacing kits.
No one should be surprised at the condition of their headlights once they start sanding on them.
The whole idea of the product is to scour away the top layer of your headlights.
This scouring process is ugly and damaging.
That's the first part, the trick is how to do it evenly.
Next you got to try to smooth it back down to a smooth surface. This is where it gets difficult.
As you continue to sand away the surface, you have destroyed or weakened the protective surface of the lens and made it more permeable to stains.
Afterwards you will need to polish the lens, and seal the lens.
In some cases that may be necessary, but resurfacing is unnecessary to remove acrylic oxidation from your headlights.
So if you haven't already damaged your lens with sandpaper trying to clean it you can avoid causing additional damage by using a acrylic lens deoxidizer.
http://www.google.com/search?sourcei...A_enUS390US390
Headlight cleaning kits are really resurfacing kits.
No one should be surprised at the condition of their headlights once they start sanding on them.
The whole idea of the product is to scour away the top layer of your headlights.
This scouring process is ugly and damaging.
That's the first part, the trick is how to do it evenly.
Next you got to try to smooth it back down to a smooth surface. This is where it gets difficult.
As you continue to sand away the surface, you have destroyed or weakened the protective surface of the lens and made it more permeable to stains.
Afterwards you will need to polish the lens, and seal the lens.
In some cases that may be necessary, but resurfacing is unnecessary to remove acrylic oxidation from your headlights.
So if you haven't already damaged your lens with sandpaper trying to clean it you can avoid causing additional damage by using a acrylic lens deoxidizer.
http://www.google.com/search?sourcei...A_enUS390US390
02-27-11, 08:28 AM
#185
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Join Date: Feb 2011
Location: FL
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Awsome !!!!!!! how long has that look lasted for ya?? i used the headlight restore kit you see at wal mart that is in that chrom looking bag... i used it and it came out awsome but it only lasted for only a monthh..
04-22-11, 09:00 AM
#187
anybody try this stuff?
i am looking for a more permanent solution (one that doesn't require monthly application) and came across this stuff...
GlassyLite by Tourenn
anybody have any of you guys tried this stuff?
GlassyLite by Tourenn
anybody have any of you guys tried this stuff?
04-22-11, 10:23 AM
#188
Depending on how deep the scratches are in the headlights, I would do 400>800>1000>1500 grit. If the lens is in good condition, you could get away with just 800>1000>1500. Don't go higher than 1500 because the surface needs to be a little rough for the new coating to bond with. After completely cleaning and decreasing the lens, apply the new coating and you're done. It will last several years minimum, if the car is garage kept, it will last even longer.
If you have a machine sander with 3" disks, it will make for a VERY easy and clean job.
This is the coating you want (don't buy some random clearcoat at Pepboys because it's not the same stuff....trust me):
http://www.spraykings.com/spray-max-...ol-10-6oz.html
04-22-11, 03:49 PM
#189
Pole Position
Im sure it all depends on how bad your headlights are..
I did not even have to use the sand paper, or take off the lights, it just worked so amazingly well ive never been impressed by a 7$ box of goodies..
It comes with 2 bottles, one is a lubricant for use with the sand papers 1800-8000 grit
as a stage 2 attempt if stage 1 doenst work..
stage 1 is just using a cotton cloth and the lens restore paste, rub it in for a good 5 mins, i had to apply a little more here and there to keep it from drying out, but then wiped it off with the clean dry part of the cloth. and volia it was new again. My oxidation wasnt as bad as maybe other ppl's may be but it worked better than i ever hoped.
If i had the patience i would remove the unit and do this on the inside but its next to crystal clear as it is i woudlnt wana fudge sometihng up just to make it 99% from 98% perfectly clear!
Its been on the car now for... over a year and im thinking maybe i can do it again to use up more of the bottle.. but i dont think i need it atall.. so id say its not a month to month application
I did not even have to use the sand paper, or take off the lights, it just worked so amazingly well ive never been impressed by a 7$ box of goodies..
It comes with 2 bottles, one is a lubricant for use with the sand papers 1800-8000 grit
as a stage 2 attempt if stage 1 doenst work..
stage 1 is just using a cotton cloth and the lens restore paste, rub it in for a good 5 mins, i had to apply a little more here and there to keep it from drying out, but then wiped it off with the clean dry part of the cloth. and volia it was new again. My oxidation wasnt as bad as maybe other ppl's may be but it worked better than i ever hoped.
If i had the patience i would remove the unit and do this on the inside but its next to crystal clear as it is i woudlnt wana fudge sometihng up just to make it 99% from 98% perfectly clear!
Its been on the car now for... over a year and im thinking maybe i can do it again to use up more of the bottle.. but i dont think i need it atall.. so id say its not a month to month application
04-22-11, 04:03 PM
#190
Im sure it all depends on how bad your headlights are..
I did not even have to use the sand paper, or take off the lights, it just worked so amazingly well ive never been impressed by a 7$ box of goodies..
It comes with 2 bottles, one is a lubricant for use with the sand papers 1800-8000 grit
as a stage 2 attempt if stage 1 doenst work..
stage 1 is just using a cotton cloth and the lens restore paste, rub it in for a good 5 mins, i had to apply a little more here and there to keep it from drying out, but then wiped it off with the clean dry part of the cloth. and volia it was new again. My oxidation wasnt as bad as maybe other ppl's may be but it worked better than i ever hoped.
If i had the patience i would remove the unit and do this on the inside but its next to crystal clear as it is i woudlnt wana fudge sometihng up just to make it 99% from 98% perfectly clear!
Its been on the car now for... over a year and im thinking maybe i can do it again to use up more of the bottle.. but i dont think i need it atall.. so id say its not a month to month application
I did not even have to use the sand paper, or take off the lights, it just worked so amazingly well ive never been impressed by a 7$ box of goodies..
It comes with 2 bottles, one is a lubricant for use with the sand papers 1800-8000 grit
as a stage 2 attempt if stage 1 doenst work..
stage 1 is just using a cotton cloth and the lens restore paste, rub it in for a good 5 mins, i had to apply a little more here and there to keep it from drying out, but then wiped it off with the clean dry part of the cloth. and volia it was new again. My oxidation wasnt as bad as maybe other ppl's may be but it worked better than i ever hoped.
If i had the patience i would remove the unit and do this on the inside but its next to crystal clear as it is i woudlnt wana fudge sometihng up just to make it 99% from 98% perfectly clear!
Its been on the car now for... over a year and im thinking maybe i can do it again to use up more of the bottle.. but i dont think i need it atall.. so id say its not a month to month application
There are two ways of doing headlights. There's the typical "buff and wax" method which is the most common and there's a permenant solution that involves removal and re-application of the UV protective coating.
That kit from Turtle wax will not be a permanent fix to the problem. It will clean up the yellowing and make the lights clearer, but the fact is, you are only removing the factory coating more and more with each time you use teh kit and eventually you will remove all of it, at which point the lights will yellow and haze even quicker once it's completely gone. You can use a strong wax or paint sealant, but that will only last a couple of months tops before they yellow again. If you want to do it right, you need to re-apply the coating. That is the only "permanent" solution which will last a few-several years after proper application.
04-22-11, 04:08 PM
#191
Soarer-93, trust me bro, just re-seal them with that spray I posted... I also have an SC and these lights yellow up pretty quick if you use the kit you have been using. I can't tell you how many times I buffed and waxed my lights with a rotary followed with several coats of Menzerna's Powerlock or BFWD sealant and it never lasted longer then 2-3 months...
You NEED to redo the UV coating completely and enjoy clear, perfect looking headlights for a long long time. Heck, I bet that kit cost you more then the UV spray would. If you got sandpaper laying around, the whole deal will cost you under $18 or so bucks and it is not hard to do at all...just mask the area around the headlights real well when you spray the coating.
You NEED to redo the UV coating completely and enjoy clear, perfect looking headlights for a long long time. Heck, I bet that kit cost you more then the UV spray would. If you got sandpaper laying around, the whole deal will cost you under $18 or so bucks and it is not hard to do at all...just mask the area around the headlights real well when you spray the coating.
04-22-11, 10:02 PM
#192
Lexus Fanatic
There is a new product called Optimum Opti Coat which may be perfect for sealing headlights after they are cleared up although it is pretty expensive if it will just be used on headlights, it is meant to permanently seal the whole car.
04-23-11, 12:07 PM
#193
I couldn't imagine spending $70 (with shipping) for a tiny "coating" just for headlights. I can buy 6 10oz. cans of UV clearcoat that I can do over a hundred cars with easily for that amount of money. The opti-coat, or any of the other new coatings would make more sense if you are coating the entire car after an extensive paint correction process.
04-28-11, 12:56 PM
#194
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Join Date: Apr 2011
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+1 An orbital buffer would've cleaned up the light a little bit more. I tried the Mothers Powerball Restoration Kit on my Civic, and it turned out very well. The only bad thing is I have to re-do them or reapply the polish every couple months or else they will start hazing again. I tried using a sealer and wax on them, but they still glazed over.
