I want to paint a piece on my car and color code it to original paint. What is the best approach I should take (DIY) other than going to a paint shop? I am trying to paint my rear wind deflector on my LX450. Any help would be appreciated. Thank you in advance.

--John

 

Firstly...Do you mean YOU'D paint the part, or a paint shop would?

 

Dan

i read it a couple of times

HE wants to paint it .....and would like to figure out the best way for him to paint it the OEM color

i think im right ??

 

Thanks Johnny, that's what i thought, but he kind of threw me with the "paint shop" reference, I clearly didn't read that right, my bad.

The "easy" way, but not as durable nor as closely color matched as the below info, is to try and find a Dupli-Color shaker can for your paint code. You can contact Dupli-Color if the local auto parts stores don't carry it. That would be fine for a small job like you're doing. If that doesn't pan out however, you will be left with doing it the "body shop" way...


For that, you'll need a few things, and you'll also have a few others to consider...

Needs;

Spray Gun
Compressor
Degreaser (3M Prepsol, or Kleen Strip Prep -All are a couple common ones)
Plastic prep or plastic primer (can be found in shaker cans)
Paint (2 part base/clear OR single stage urethane- your choice, but I'd spray whatever the vehicle is painted with-likely base/clear) Take your paint code to an auto paint retailer and have them mix you a pint, along with activators, reducers and clear. Here's the other problem with that; Your deflector will cost you from $60-$75 to $100 or so in paint, depending on which quality (paint line) you choose, even if you buy in pints/quarts. That Dupli-Color option sure looks good right now.


The deflector will need to be degreased well, then use the plastic prep spray or plastic primer (both will work without sanding the part, but you can pre-scuff it with a red ScotchBrite pad if you want, can't hurt)

When the primer is dry, you need to scuff that with 600 wetsandpaper or a red ScotchBrite pad. This is so the new paint can bite/bond well.

If using base/clear, spray the basecolor 2 coats or 3, whichever achieves hiding(opacity) Make sure you have good lighting at this point, because spraying paint in semi dark areas may look great at the time, but when you take it out into the sun, you can often see where the paint didn't cover all the way, or is shaded.

Let the basecolor flash ( flash= wait time) as per lable instructions-don't rush, then spray 2 coats of clear, 3 if you plan to wetsand the part.(you'll be sanding 1 coat off in the process).

One word of warning. 2K urethane paints contain isocyanates and diisocyanates, VERY toxic chemicals (known carcinogens) and there is NO OSHA approved respirator that will filter them out. Pros use a "positive pressure" free air system (pumped in air) but you have 3 choices;

Buy a Hobby Air Kit @ $400 (hard to justify when you won't be painting much)

Use a scuba tank (sounds funny, but it works)

Hold your breath and then clear the area when done spraying. This is inexact, but it beats the alternative of breathing the stuff. It won't work on big items (hood, door, whole car etc.) but for small parts you can usually spray & run.

This is no joke, people have DIED from breathing iso fumes. It usually occurs after much repeated exposure, but..why even hurt your lungs a little? Just not worth a paint job on a part or a whole car IMO.

The DupliColor shaker cans are non-catalyzed, so they are safer to breath-no isocyanates.

Sorry if I made this sound complicated. It just is.

 

Dan Ot
for a second

or ill start a new thread

i have side skirts that have doublesided tape on them and i need to take off

and put new tape

i saw that you listed Prepsol ...my AB guy told me to use this

thoughts ...concerns ??

thanks johnny

sorry for the hi-jack

 

Prepsol *should* work, no concerns at all, it should be perfectly safe on those parts, painted or not.

If it doesn't get back to me.

 

thanks Dan

i have two day off from work

need to finish the car lol

thanks again

go to bed lol

we are on the same coast

 

Thanks for all the help guys!!

--John

 

For a small job like this (painting my wind deflector), would it be a good idea to paint it with some caliper paint which is durable, has a a soft shine, and can withstand high heat. Would this be ok? Please let me know. It's just an idea.

--John

 

John, I suppose you *could* use that, but...it's pretty $$$ paint because of the high heat nature of it and there's no need for high heat paint on a wind deflector. One other thing is many of them are brush on paints, you'd need to find a sprayable type,

If you don't mind the extra cost involved, It should work ok, the only thing unknown to me is how you'll get the color match you need, since caliper paints come in only very basic colors, that may or may not match your paint color. For black it *might* be ok though.

I'd think Krylon Fusion, which is made specifically for plastic, would be the better way to go. See here; http://www.dickblick.com/zz014/11/

 

Thank you Guitarman. Sounds like a good idea!

--John