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fuel filter line help

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Old 05-09-14, 07:29 PM   #1
wth98sc
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Default fuel filter line help

Car that I bought came with a jacked up fuel line that goes into the filter. After getting everything ready to start for the first time I heard the fuel pouring out of the line between the bolt that goes into the filter and the fuel line.. the line also has damage. Is there anything I can do thats simple?
So far ive been told;
1) buy all new lines...
2) cut reflare (double flare) and new bolt and bend lines so it reaches filter...
3) find a nipple filter, cut the bad line back and then use a rubber hose..

#1 is out of the question...
#2 I have 0 experience with flaring fuel lines and am not confident that the line thats left will bend that far to actually get it to thread on the filter sqaure...
#3 ive been told I need special hose and you get gas fumes.. also is a more expensive option

Either way im at a loss and if anyone has any insite.. my phone never lets me use the search funtion and I dont have a computer that isnt under the knife atm.. thanks for any help...
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Old 05-09-14, 07:32 PM   #2
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Andddd I just posted this in suspension and brakes... fml
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1997 sc300 - DD (5spd under construction bellow)

1998 sc300 - totalled
1994 sc300 - gutted drift car shell.. no drivetrain. Rotting...
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Old 05-10-14, 07:18 PM   #3
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#2 is your best bet. A shop charged my friend about $70
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Old 05-11-14, 12:50 AM   #4
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just worried about being able to thread the bolt into the filter square and not cross threaded
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1997 sc300 - DD (5spd under construction bellow)

1998 sc300 - totalled
1994 sc300 - gutted drift car shell.. no drivetrain. Rotting...
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Old 05-26-14, 06:07 PM   #5
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I had a similar problem when I changed the filter after buying my car. Whoever worked on it previously had done something funky to the female threads on the nuts at either end. Probably JB Weld or something stupid to permanently bond them. The threads on the filter were fine and the new filter was tougher to get on than the old one was to get off, and new lines threaded on to both equally well.

In the end, the mechanic cut part of the old line out and added a new one in with new flanges. You don't want to do entirely new lines, as the one going forward to the engine is quite expensive and impossibly complex to route without some pretty specific tools.
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Old 05-27-14, 02:00 PM   #6
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Well I have a 94 parts car.. I managed to swap lines... pain in the *** but I did it.
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Old 05-27-14, 02:00 PM
 
 
 
 
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