Changed my fuel filter today. The problem I had was that the connections was really stuck. When I had my car at Lexus earlier to have them to check some other things I asked them to change my fuel filter to (it's a 30 min job for them). But they only managed to loosen the "out" connection on the filter. Because I didn't want to replace all the piping from the filter to the tank I decided to have a go on it my self.

My plan was to cut a short piece of the piping at the "in" connection on the filter. Then use a fuel hose with a hose coupling clamped to it that connects to the filter. The hose would be clamped with 2 hose clamps to the rest of the piping.

Found the right type of hose coupling, see this pdf: http://www.specmacomponent.se/common...Koppl_Webb.pdf (it's in Swedish but I think you will understand anyway). Then I went to a local hydraulic hose shop and asked them to put that coupling on a fuel hose. It was really cheap.

So long so good. But when I started to work on the car....It was really messy. The fuel was pouring out. I got a lot of fuel on me. What I should have done was to clamp the flexible part of the fuel line (a hose) that goes into the tank with a weld wrench or something similar. Doesn't know if this is the right name for it in English but it looks like this:

Feel kind of stupid that i couldn't figure out that I should use this kind of tool. But I had totally forgotten that this kind of tools existed

My second mistake was not to use thread tape or similar on the old coupling at first. If a coupling is in good shape you don't need this kind of stuff normally. But when i had installed the filter for the first time and started up the car it leaked heavily from the old coupling (the out connection on the filter). So then I decided to try thread tape. But I had a lot of problem because I hadn't still figured out how to stop all the gasoline to leak. That was then another guy tipped me that I could use a weld wrench or similar. So then I bought one. And it helped a lot because it stopped the fuel leaking out so I could work with the coupling. So then i finally could apply the thread tape on the old coupling and that stopped it from leaking.

It took me 5 hours to change the fuel filter and I estimated that I had lost around 32 liters (approx. 8 gallons) of fuel at a cost of 400 SEK (~42 dollars)

But it was still worth it because it improved the performance of the car quite a bit (or actually restored it). My 0-100 kph (0-62 mph) time improved with almost 1 second.

Had to open the old fuel filter up just to see how dirty it was. To me it looked really dirty. See picture bellow to make your own opinion.


Hope this can help someone that is going to change the fuel filter on his/her car.

 

you could have just pulled the fuel pump fuse/relay, left the fuel filler cap on it, then tried to start the car. would have cleared the lines a decent bit as well as create a vacuum in the tank to prevent massive fuel loss.

 

+1, thats the method I use.

 

I guess that's all that's needed to be added to this tutorial:

http://www.lexls.com/tutorials/EFI/fuelfilter.html

 

Had my fuel cap on. Couldn't find the fuel pump relay otherwise I had tried to pulled it.

 

that relay is in the engine compartment fusebox.

 

I would not even start the process until I knew I had burned at least 20 US Gallons out of my tank.

 

What is the recommended change interval on the OEM filters? I changed mine, but didnt use OEM-i think i may buy an OEM one and change it again...

 

OEM filter is part #23300-50020
I paid $38.52

 

That's a beastly looking fuel filter. Don't think I've ever seen one rusted on so bad. I always use flare nut wrenches on these and probably would have hit yours with a few heavy doses of penetrating oil, then slowly worked at the nut to try to loosen.

http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...emnumber=97952

I usually take a propane torch to stuck fasteners but that wouldn't exactly be safe here

"weld wrench" = "vise grip"

Nice writeup, thanks

Rob

 

that old fuel filter's fine, put it up on ebay to recover some cost of your lost fuel

Seriously though, that's some pretty nasty rust there, do they salt the roads where you live?

 

Yes they do salt the roads here in the winter. I really hate that stuff. If your car is not protected it starts to rust in no time.

 

According to alldatadiy.com:
1. Remove the luggage compartment floor mat, spare tire and trim cover.
2. Disconnect the Fuel Pump connector.
3. Start the engine. After the engine has stopped running on its own, turn
the Ignition Switch OFF.
4. Place a rag or shop towel over the component to be serviced. Place a
suitable container under the component to catch spilled fuel.
5. Slowly loosen the union bolt or fitting to relieve any remaining fuel
pressure.
6. After repairs are made, reconnect the Fuel Pump connector and reinstall the luggage compartment trim cover, spare tire and floor mat. CAUTION: After affecting any repair that requires disassembly of fuel related components, inspect carefully for fuel leaks upon completion.

 

I would be surpised if I lost more than 1/2 gallon.
Did make thge mistake of having my battery already disconnected because I replaced a sensor as well & could not access my fuel cap!

Ran 35 miles past the fuel light warning prior to filter removal.

 

This is VERY true. I wish I had done that