What should my first mod be?
#16
Pole Position
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mod whatever you want first ...
regardless of what people suggest, its all going to depend on you and your wallet ...
hell get a strut bar first, or a broadway mirror ... or go ahead and order you a kazz lsd, or try to find an auto TT lsd from a MKIV ...
all in all do whatever you want man ...
regardless of what people suggest, its all going to depend on you and your wallet ...
hell get a strut bar first, or a broadway mirror ... or go ahead and order you a kazz lsd, or try to find an auto TT lsd from a MKIV ...
all in all do whatever you want man ...
#17
Besides the maintenance stuff, if your on a budget I would do sway bars with poly bushings first assuming that your shocks are in good condition.
Sway bars alone made quite a noticeable difference in my SC.
Sway bars alone made quite a noticeable difference in my SC.
#19
Lexus Champion
iTrader: (2)
if you have a proper set of coilovers there is very small need for sways, unless you do hardcore tracking and even then it is a guessing game as far as bar size.
right now though save up for a new clutch
#20
sway bars are a band aid solution to body roll and handling issues. sway bars will help when the car has certain amount of understeer. a lot of supra guys that track their mk4's actually remove the rear sway bar completely. this helps the rear end "rotate" better. i have not reinstalled my sway bar since i did my subframe/bushings upgrade but i also have not pushed my car so i cant comment on a difference yet.
if you have a proper set of coilovers there is very small need for sways, unless you do hardcore tracking and even then it is a guessing game as far as bar size.
if you have a proper set of coilovers there is very small need for sways, unless you do hardcore tracking and even then it is a guessing game as far as bar size.
#21
make sure your car isn't going to blow up,overheat,leak on the track. i think maintenance and reliability are the most important thing when building a drift car dont want to loose precious track time fixing your car.
5spd,locked up diff, good tires to burn, suspension, seat, weight reduction,turbosss.
you can drift anything just go nuts and don't get in trouble
5spd,locked up diff, good tires to burn, suspension, seat, weight reduction,turbosss.
you can drift anything just go nuts and don't get in trouble
#22
Lexus Champion
iTrader: (2)
the reason im saying this is due to a lot of conversations with racers, drifters, and doing Formula SAE previously and maybe helping the guys again this year with cylinder head work.
#23
#24
Lexus Champion
iTrader: (2)
lol. if only everyone thought like that. why do people that dont do anything but have a garage queen or "wanna-be show car" get coilovers? all they want is to go low. they dont care about the advantages like easy spring swapping and revalving as well as adjustability. god forbid anyone considers actually maintaining proper suspension geometry. the lower you go the worse your car handles. the only real way to fix it is relocating suspension pick-up points and adapter to normalize link position.
putting parts only that you need? who does that. no one needs 1000hp but for some reason everyone and their mother on SF is all about that and then get surprised that their car, mk4 supra, doesnt get the respect it deserves from the outsiders.
dyno pulls dont mean anything. what channel is the dyno racing on? comcast should set that up. most SF members will spend days on end "watching" it with owe.
putting parts only that you need? who does that. no one needs 1000hp but for some reason everyone and their mother on SF is all about that and then get surprised that their car, mk4 supra, doesnt get the respect it deserves from the outsiders.
dyno pulls dont mean anything. what channel is the dyno racing on? comcast should set that up. most SF members will spend days on end "watching" it with owe.
#25
this is my list:
1) maintenance: ie timing belt, water pump, thermostat, rear/front main seals, crank seal, distributor seal. do that first if it has not been done already.
2) replace the clutch....you will be drifting and most likely doing a lot of clutch kicking at first. our cars are heavy and dont like to stay sideways unless you have power or *****. that will be the easiest way to start learning your car. it will also be the first thing to go especially if the clutch is already slipping.
3) get an lsd...welded diff will work. i have used one for 2 seasons already and the car is daily driven with no issues. if you can put up with the "negatives" it provides then you will be fine. i paid 50 bucks to get mine done locally.
options: tomei, kaaz, trd, stock mk4 supra tt auto torsen, or stock mk4 supra NA torsen. some NA supras came with an lsd but most did not.
NOTE: most aftermarket diffs for our cars DO NOT come with the bearings. they are about 60/piece from the dealer so include that in the final cost of the differential. if buying used also include the cost of LSD gear oil. if it is a clutch type lsd it needs special fluid. regular autozone stuff wont work.
if the diff is new make sure to break it in properly. i cannot stress that enough. most people dont do it right and then complain of premature wear or somewhat unpredictable lock-up characteristics.
4) replace all the bushings: in this order
-rack bushings
-front control arm bushings
-rear control arm bushings
chances are yours are shot or almost there, after all our cars are old.
options: Prothane, Daizen(rebranded and upmarked/overpriced daizen), Fulcrum, SuperPro, custom(i use to make some steel inserts for the rack...makes the steering feel like an s2000...drive your car then drive an s2000, then compare
5) coilovers
not at all necessary for drifting but they do help a hell lot. i was on tokico/eibach combo for the longest time until i got my Stance coilovers
do your research because cheap is not really what you want when it comes to dampers. bouncy ride is what you end up with. there are plenty of options out there. look into gixxer_drew setup. google is easiest way. it will give you the DIY threads linked to this forum and supra forums. this is where it originated. if you read the whole thread you will understand the benefits. if you are a DIY-type-of-guy then its right up your alley.
6)cooling
-oil cooler
-power steering cooler
this is important. power steering fluid will boil over easily and you will need to keep a close eye on it when at the track.
a cheap solution to a PS cooler is to go to a yard or forums and find an RX-7 oil cooler. it is huge and will do the job wonderfully. running the pump dry sucks. it is really easy to install as well. on the driver side if you take off the bumper, right under the head light, you will see a hard metal line come in, loop, and go back into the engine bay. this toyotas version of a heat exchanger, a metal line. in theory it works but only for a grandma cruising on the highway strictly following the speed limit at 2500rpm....not at 4500+
oil cooler is not as important but if you ever go turbo you can reuse it and it help because the turbo makes sure to keep that oil hot
also run water wetter in the cooling system in the hot summer days if you notice any issues. i have never had any issues on stock radiator/thermostat combo. my car doesnt even have the stock fan shroud and it runs perfect. never overheated.
7) brakes and wheels
this is together because if you upgrade to ls400 or supra TT front brakes you need at least 17"(or ls400 wheels) to make it work.
wheels make your car look good and will help with handling but are not necessary for drifting. when i first got the car i used 15x8 ssr mesh wheels in the back with a 195/50/15 tire. less tire makes it easier to break it loose and keep it sideways. as you get better or get more power you can put a bigger tire. a bigger tire is harder to break loose but when you want control and deceleration it will help with that too. a skinny tire just wants to keep sliding.
there is more things so lets keep the discussion going
1) maintenance: ie timing belt, water pump, thermostat, rear/front main seals, crank seal, distributor seal. do that first if it has not been done already.
2) replace the clutch....you will be drifting and most likely doing a lot of clutch kicking at first. our cars are heavy and dont like to stay sideways unless you have power or *****. that will be the easiest way to start learning your car. it will also be the first thing to go especially if the clutch is already slipping.
3) get an lsd...welded diff will work. i have used one for 2 seasons already and the car is daily driven with no issues. if you can put up with the "negatives" it provides then you will be fine. i paid 50 bucks to get mine done locally.
options: tomei, kaaz, trd, stock mk4 supra tt auto torsen, or stock mk4 supra NA torsen. some NA supras came with an lsd but most did not.
NOTE: most aftermarket diffs for our cars DO NOT come with the bearings. they are about 60/piece from the dealer so include that in the final cost of the differential. if buying used also include the cost of LSD gear oil. if it is a clutch type lsd it needs special fluid. regular autozone stuff wont work.
if the diff is new make sure to break it in properly. i cannot stress that enough. most people dont do it right and then complain of premature wear or somewhat unpredictable lock-up characteristics.
4) replace all the bushings: in this order
-rack bushings
-front control arm bushings
-rear control arm bushings
chances are yours are shot or almost there, after all our cars are old.
options: Prothane, Daizen(rebranded and upmarked/overpriced daizen), Fulcrum, SuperPro, custom(i use to make some steel inserts for the rack...makes the steering feel like an s2000...drive your car then drive an s2000, then compare
5) coilovers
not at all necessary for drifting but they do help a hell lot. i was on tokico/eibach combo for the longest time until i got my Stance coilovers
do your research because cheap is not really what you want when it comes to dampers. bouncy ride is what you end up with. there are plenty of options out there. look into gixxer_drew setup. google is easiest way. it will give you the DIY threads linked to this forum and supra forums. this is where it originated. if you read the whole thread you will understand the benefits. if you are a DIY-type-of-guy then its right up your alley.
6)cooling
-oil cooler
-power steering cooler
this is important. power steering fluid will boil over easily and you will need to keep a close eye on it when at the track.
a cheap solution to a PS cooler is to go to a yard or forums and find an RX-7 oil cooler. it is huge and will do the job wonderfully. running the pump dry sucks. it is really easy to install as well. on the driver side if you take off the bumper, right under the head light, you will see a hard metal line come in, loop, and go back into the engine bay. this toyotas version of a heat exchanger, a metal line. in theory it works but only for a grandma cruising on the highway strictly following the speed limit at 2500rpm....not at 4500+
oil cooler is not as important but if you ever go turbo you can reuse it and it help because the turbo makes sure to keep that oil hot
also run water wetter in the cooling system in the hot summer days if you notice any issues. i have never had any issues on stock radiator/thermostat combo. my car doesnt even have the stock fan shroud and it runs perfect. never overheated.
7) brakes and wheels
this is together because if you upgrade to ls400 or supra TT front brakes you need at least 17"(or ls400 wheels) to make it work.
wheels make your car look good and will help with handling but are not necessary for drifting. when i first got the car i used 15x8 ssr mesh wheels in the back with a 195/50/15 tire. less tire makes it easier to break it loose and keep it sideways. as you get better or get more power you can put a bigger tire. a bigger tire is harder to break loose but when you want control and deceleration it will help with that too. a skinny tire just wants to keep sliding.
there is more things so lets keep the discussion going
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