What should my first mod be?
02-09-09, 11:58 AM
#1
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What should my first mod be?
I just got a '92 sc300 and I am into the drift seen, so I know that stock isn't going to cut it. I was looking at getting a stronger clutch because mine is slipping slightly, then I wanted to get an lsd and then some coilovers and wheels. My friends are arguing about what order I should get the stuff in, and I really don't know what I want. If anyone is selling anything that I stated above, let me know.
02-09-09, 12:00 PM
#2
Get coilovers first. If you get wheels they'll look stupid without a drop. Also, if you plan on drifting right away, try to get that LSD as soon as you can.
I think user Biggu is from Ohio too and he's really into the drift scene. You should hit him up.
I think user Biggu is from Ohio too and he's really into the drift scene. You should hit him up.
02-09-09, 12:03 PM
#3
Lexus Test Driver
does a tt auto lsd bolt up to our stock rear end? and i agree with what OneJay says..get LSD first..then coils and then probably look at upgrading your clutch/start making some power
02-09-09, 12:03 PM
#4
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02-09-09, 02:43 PM
#8
Welcome to the forum from a local Ohio'an
What part of Ohio are you from?
not sure about what you want but my mods went as follows,
coilovers then wheels then 1jz swap and at the same time i did a 2way LSD.
if i had to do it all over agian i would do coilovers, LSD then wheels then a racing seat(if your serious about drifting a SC) and basic mods to the engine to start off.
if you need any help with getting your car sideways let me know and i can help you out. also dont forget to joinup www.Ohiodrifting.com for local ohio drift events *(shameless plug)*
What part of Ohio are you from?
not sure about what you want but my mods went as follows,
coilovers then wheels then 1jz swap and at the same time i did a 2way LSD.
if i had to do it all over agian i would do coilovers, LSD then wheels then a racing seat(if your serious about drifting a SC) and basic mods to the engine to start off.
if you need any help with getting your car sideways let me know and i can help you out. also dont forget to joinup www.Ohiodrifting.com for local ohio drift events *(shameless plug)*
02-09-09, 05:25 PM
#10
this is my list:
1) maintenance: ie timing belt, water pump, thermostat, rear/front main seals, crank seal, distributor seal. do that first if it has not been done already.
2) replace the clutch....you will be drifting and most likely doing a lot of clutch kicking at first. our cars are heavy and dont like to stay sideways unless you have power or *****. that will be the easiest way to start learning your car. it will also be the first thing to go especially if the clutch is already slipping.
3) get an lsd...welded diff will work. i have used one for 2 seasons already and the car is daily driven with no issues. if you can put up with the "negatives" it provides then you will be fine. i paid 50 bucks to get mine done locally.
options: tomei, kaaz, trd, stock mk4 supra tt auto torsen, or stock mk4 supra NA torsen. some NA supras came with an lsd but most did not.
NOTE: most aftermarket diffs for our cars DO NOT come with the bearings. they are about 60/piece from the dealer so include that in the final cost of the differential. if buying used also include the cost of LSD gear oil. if it is a clutch type lsd it needs special fluid. regular autozone stuff wont work.
if the diff is new make sure to break it in properly. i cannot stress that enough. most people dont do it right and then complain of premature wear or somewhat unpredictable lock-up characteristics.
4) replace all the bushings: in this order
-rack bushings
-front control arm bushings
-rear control arm bushings
chances are yours are shot or almost there, after all our cars are old.
options: Prothane, Daizen(rebranded and upmarked/overpriced daizen), Fulcrum, SuperPro, custom(i use to make some steel inserts for the rack...makes the steering feel like an s2000...drive your car then drive an s2000, then compare
5) coilovers
not at all necessary for drifting but they do help a hell lot. i was on tokico/eibach combo for the longest time until i got my Stance coilovers
do your research because cheap is not really what you want when it comes to dampers. bouncy ride is what you end up with. there are plenty of options out there. look into gixxer_drew setup. google is easiest way. it will give you the DIY threads linked to this forum and supra forums. this is where it originated. if you read the whole thread you will understand the benefits. if you are a DIY-type-of-guy then its right up your alley.
6)cooling
-oil cooler
-power steering cooler
this is important. power steering fluid will boil over easily and you will need to keep a close eye on it when at the track.
a cheap solution to a PS cooler is to go to a yard or forums and find an RX-7 oil cooler. it is huge and will do the job wonderfully. running the pump dry sucks. it is really easy to install as well. on the driver side if you take off the bumper, right under the head light, you will see a hard metal line come in, loop, and go back into the engine bay. this toyotas version of a heat exchanger, a metal line. in theory it works but only for a grandma cruising on the highway strictly following the speed limit at 2500rpm....not at 4500+
oil cooler is not as important but if you ever go turbo you can reuse it and it help because the turbo makes sure to keep that oil hot
also run water wetter in the cooling system in the hot summer days if you notice any issues. i have never had any issues on stock radiator/thermostat combo. my car doesnt even have the stock fan shroud and it runs perfect. never overheated.
7) brakes and wheels
this is together because if you upgrade to ls400 or supra TT front brakes you need at least 17"(or ls400 wheels) to make it work.
wheels make your car look good and will help with handling but are not necessary for drifting. when i first got the car i used 15x8 ssr mesh wheels in the back with a 195/50/15 tire. less tire makes it easier to break it loose and keep it sideways. as you get better or get more power you can put a bigger tire. a bigger tire is harder to break loose but when you want control and deceleration it will help with that too. a skinny tire just wants to keep sliding.
there is more things so lets keep the discussion going
1) maintenance: ie timing belt, water pump, thermostat, rear/front main seals, crank seal, distributor seal. do that first if it has not been done already.
2) replace the clutch....you will be drifting and most likely doing a lot of clutch kicking at first. our cars are heavy and dont like to stay sideways unless you have power or *****. that will be the easiest way to start learning your car. it will also be the first thing to go especially if the clutch is already slipping.
3) get an lsd...welded diff will work. i have used one for 2 seasons already and the car is daily driven with no issues. if you can put up with the "negatives" it provides then you will be fine. i paid 50 bucks to get mine done locally.
options: tomei, kaaz, trd, stock mk4 supra tt auto torsen, or stock mk4 supra NA torsen. some NA supras came with an lsd but most did not.
NOTE: most aftermarket diffs for our cars DO NOT come with the bearings. they are about 60/piece from the dealer so include that in the final cost of the differential. if buying used also include the cost of LSD gear oil. if it is a clutch type lsd it needs special fluid. regular autozone stuff wont work.
if the diff is new make sure to break it in properly. i cannot stress that enough. most people dont do it right and then complain of premature wear or somewhat unpredictable lock-up characteristics.
4) replace all the bushings: in this order
-rack bushings
-front control arm bushings
-rear control arm bushings
chances are yours are shot or almost there, after all our cars are old.
options: Prothane, Daizen(rebranded and upmarked/overpriced daizen), Fulcrum, SuperPro, custom(i use to make some steel inserts for the rack...makes the steering feel like an s2000...drive your car then drive an s2000, then compare
5) coilovers
not at all necessary for drifting but they do help a hell lot. i was on tokico/eibach combo for the longest time until i got my Stance coilovers
do your research because cheap is not really what you want when it comes to dampers. bouncy ride is what you end up with. there are plenty of options out there. look into gixxer_drew setup. google is easiest way. it will give you the DIY threads linked to this forum and supra forums. this is where it originated. if you read the whole thread you will understand the benefits. if you are a DIY-type-of-guy then its right up your alley.
6)cooling
-oil cooler
-power steering cooler
this is important. power steering fluid will boil over easily and you will need to keep a close eye on it when at the track.
a cheap solution to a PS cooler is to go to a yard or forums and find an RX-7 oil cooler. it is huge and will do the job wonderfully. running the pump dry sucks. it is really easy to install as well. on the driver side if you take off the bumper, right under the head light, you will see a hard metal line come in, loop, and go back into the engine bay. this toyotas version of a heat exchanger, a metal line. in theory it works but only for a grandma cruising on the highway strictly following the speed limit at 2500rpm....not at 4500+
oil cooler is not as important but if you ever go turbo you can reuse it and it help because the turbo makes sure to keep that oil hot
also run water wetter in the cooling system in the hot summer days if you notice any issues. i have never had any issues on stock radiator/thermostat combo. my car doesnt even have the stock fan shroud and it runs perfect. never overheated.
7) brakes and wheels
this is together because if you upgrade to ls400 or supra TT front brakes you need at least 17"(or ls400 wheels) to make it work.
wheels make your car look good and will help with handling but are not necessary for drifting. when i first got the car i used 15x8 ssr mesh wheels in the back with a 195/50/15 tire. less tire makes it easier to break it loose and keep it sideways. as you get better or get more power you can put a bigger tire. a bigger tire is harder to break loose but when you want control and deceleration it will help with that too. a skinny tire just wants to keep sliding.
there is more things so lets keep the discussion going
02-09-09, 09:44 PM
#14
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Join Date: Feb 2009
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I greatly appreciate the help, it really sounds like you know all of this from experience and I hope to get to that point eventually. Expect to hear from me when I have more questions. Speaking of questions, how do you get the door panels off? I just tried and I got everything except there was something keeping it held on to the left of the door handle.