andym666

Hi again folks. Well after 8 years I’ve gone and bought a decent scanner/code reader – Autel DS708 and plugged into our 2003 GS300. For 95% of the time we have owned this the VSC/ABS lights have been on – thought we sorted it out 3 times 1) brake fluid reservoir was 5mm low 2) the bank 2 sensor 2 oxy heater/sensor was changed 3) reset the Yaw rate sensor (even made an OBD plug up specially to make this easier as the generic code readers have been known to trigger these lights on Toyotas for some reason – they all worked for a little bit then back again. The lights normally illuminate after 1-2 mts of car movement.Now we also have the TIS Dealer software (disappointingly very basic old thing though) and both systems show NO OBD or fault codes anywhere. The abs sensors all read fine during driving.Having gone deeper into the new scanners system I go to the ABS section where the Yaw sensor can be reset and the utility allowed another fault scan and the pictures below show an alarming amount of faults!!! Physically impossible for them to be real – it also allows you to clear faults at this menu but….it does not clear them – they remain in the system! Is it possible that’s where the real culprit is living????Now before you ask – every mechanical an electrical component on this car HAS been changed from the complete drivetrain (engine/box/diff/exhaust) to everything under the hood – all except the ECU – and despite the mind boggling cost – the exact same problem exists – by simple conclusion (bearing in mind the donor car drove with ZERO faults) is that the fault remains in the ECU - ????Now after years of probably reading every post on the subject surely someone must have got the bottom of this cr*p system that even turns off the VSC when the cat heater senor goes faulty??? WHY??? – it’s not part of the traction/braking circuit?Is there maybe a bypass for this??Help….because if these do not sort the problem I am going to have to scrap this amazing motor – sometimes you have to know when to let go…..

FrankT

Low alternator output would cause this...

Please use paragraph spacing, your post is mostly unreadable and I didn't bother reading the whole thing; I'm just too old and lazy.

kevin3344

Yeah, I would have your charging system checked and report back. Before you go spending money on what appears to be the problem, take the car to Lexus and have them do a diagnostic for $120 or so. I had an off and on CEL for a year, turned out to be a cracked vacuum hose. The dealer didn't even charge me for any parts or labor just said come pick up the car it's fixed. I would go that route before replacing parts which as you know can get expensive...and still not fix the problem.

andym666

Ooooh! I do apologise….I did not realise the forum had appointed you, FRANKT, Professor of English grammar – seriously? That’s the main thrust of your reply? Arrogance?Please do respond any further – your type of keyboard nonsense is the reason many folks do not get involved in forums – so go away and let the grown ups deal with this.Back to the problem.The alternator is only 3 months (this is 3rd one since new) old and the battery (also the 3rd since new) is 1 week old – neither made any difference.The Stealers had it on their TIS twice at ridiculous cost (and numerous days in their care) and came away with nothing…we have the same TIS now and again it shows nothing but the Autel does as stated above. However, even though the codes appear above they do not show as faults on the normal system scan – only on a deep scan in the ABS menu….

kevin3344

Problems like this can be frustrating but usually in the end it's something simple. Could be the battery terminals or a wiring harness. Take a look at this thread:

https://www.clublexus.com/forums/ls-...-then-off.html

If you're not having luck with the dealer, find a reputable Indy. They can usually spot something we can't.

FrankT

andym666 , I'm not going away; over 10 years on ClubLexus I've seen plenty...but you sir, please, don't you melt away because you can't take a bit of constructive criticism. After all I'm just trying to help you help yourself.

Anyway, how many amps and voltage are you showing at idle?

burteboy

You may have an harness problem. Clear the codes start the vehicle and shake around the harness by your abs actuator, master cylinder, brake pedal and around the front wheel well.
May or could be causing an intermitten problem.

Littleguy

He isn't even using punctuation or spacing between sentences, makes it very hard on the eyes to read. FYI, on the internet we cannot see you or speak to you like when you are in front of someone in person, so the only way we have of understanding each other is by using agreed upon rules for grammar and punctuation. This allows us all to be understood more clearly and when you do not use it one can only assume that you are either being rude or arrogant, or that you are stupid.

andym666

LittleGuy - name says it all - this is supposed to be a tech forum.
FYI - the initial post was written in word and copied to this forum - at which point THE SYSTEM reformatted it automatically! So if you have issues contact the Moderators - stop wasting time and space complaining on here. Now who's being rude, arrogant and stupid?
FrankT - will get back to you re readings in next few days.

Torii

i had vsc lights come on with low/dead battery, bought new battery prob gone.

pinoiryder

iTrader: (5)

only time the VSC went on mine was the timing was off 1 or two teeth.. i had my mechanic check it and since his there already i had him replace the timing again..

1UZ92SC

I recently encountered this on the gf's '01 RX300 (FWD). I pressure washed the engine bay and kicked a couple CEL for emissions. Prior to this, there were no CEL or any other light on the in the dash and they all function test correctly upon turning key on.

The CEL for emissions were solved by pulling all the VSV plugins off and plugging them back in (P0441,0442 and 0446; found this was not a vacuum line leak but an electrical connection disruption by my pressure washing to aggressively). I used a Bosch code reader from O'reilley's to clear them. A few days later, the VSC and TRAC lights turned on. Upon jumping terminals at location 3, VSC flashed code 39. No such code exists on ProDemand, except for ABS (not illuminated). I consequently looked at the left rear speed sensor anyways, no chips.

I followed the link to the Zero Pt. Cal page and performed that with a paper clip. Code cleared, verified normal fx afterwards by re-connecting terminals and key on to find the VSC flashings every 0.13s, as advertised. Key off, pulled paperclip. Both lights light up upon key on and extinguish as advertised. Start and drive now, lights stay off, but I have lost ability to manually control TRAC light with the button.

Am I missing something? Pull battery terminal to reset? Unplug TRAC unit and reconnect to disturb connections? Possible the YAW or DECEL sensor are ****?

This is my first rodeo with an aftermarket code reader manifesting this kind of issues, so I'm still sifting through information to make sense of it all. Any help is greatly appreciated.

eicca

Still need to know what your voltage is, at idle and at higher rpm.

burteboy

Most of your codes reading low voltage check your ground , body and chassis. Check the voltage to your abs actuator and ground using a voltmeter . If that is good disconnect both terminals from your battery and hold them together for about 1min or tie them with a wire tie. Reconnect them and do a zero point calibration . Recheck your operation. By holding the terminals together you clear all the ecm memory.

dwoods801

I had Phantom problems like this, I did some general maintenance and just like always, I put dielectric grease in all the wire plugs, i had 16 codes on at 1point, found out my GS likes the wire plugs and sockets dry and clean. I tried everything until finally figured out never to use it on this car. Just a thought, if u have been using it.