N.O.S. + Drifting + 2 extra passengers=
10-07-02, 11:48 AM
#4
One of those studs in the picture is just jammed in the rim.
The wheel was held on by ONE stud :eek:
Thank God that I had changed my mind about getting on the Freeway just block earlier and decided to drive through the city
We had a big company BBQ that turned into a 'session' (As we like to call it
) I think there were about 3 or 4 cars that had some sort of damage at the end of the day
It then turned into a "EmeraldStuckonthesideoftheroadfor2hoursLessonlearned" session..........It was fun though
The wheel was held on by ONE stud :eek:
Thank God that I had changed my mind about getting on the Freeway just block earlier and decided to drive through the city
We had a big company BBQ that turned into a 'session' (As we like to call it
) I think there were about 3 or 4 cars that had some sort of damage at the end of the day It then turned into a "EmeraldStuckonthesideoftheroadfor2hoursLessonlearned" session..........It was fun though
Last edited by DriftGirl; 10-07-02 at 11:54 AM.
10-07-02, 01:04 PM
#5
Lead Lap
I had the same problem...
On my 300Z, I broke 3 studs on 2 different occassions,... burning out hard, or drifting,... not sure which was the culprit,.. but I didn't notice until I got off tha gas on the hwy at about 100mph and heard this wobblin' type of sound (like warped rotors),...but only when I was off the gas,... pulled over,... noticed the 3 remaining were loose, so I tightened,.. rolled down a couple miles, and pop went the third one. Two different incidents, same driver rear wheel.... scary.
10-07-02, 11:21 PM
#6
Lead Lap
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The usual cause of broken studs in service is incorrect tightening procedure of the wheel and/or over tightening.
If just one wheel nut is made "tight" before the others it can cause the wheel to flex (as can one overtightened nut), subsequent tightening of the other nuts then pulls the wheel stud in a sideways direction creating a lateral load on one or more studs, add some spirited driving (or NOS & Drifiting) and TWANG, the studs start popping.
I never allow tyre shops to tighten my wheels unless I stand behind the mech and make sure he does it correctly;
1, all nuts on hand tight and wheel flush to the hub
2, all nuts to half torque settings
3, all nuts to full torque,
Each step should use the 1,3,5,4,2 sequence and check them again after 100miles.
If just one wheel nut is made "tight" before the others it can cause the wheel to flex (as can one overtightened nut), subsequent tightening of the other nuts then pulls the wheel stud in a sideways direction creating a lateral load on one or more studs, add some spirited driving (or NOS & Drifiting) and TWANG, the studs start popping.
I never allow tyre shops to tighten my wheels unless I stand behind the mech and make sure he does it correctly;
1, all nuts on hand tight and wheel flush to the hub
2, all nuts to half torque settings
3, all nuts to full torque,
Each step should use the 1,3,5,4,2 sequence and check them again after 100miles.
10-08-02, 01:24 AM
#7
Lexus Fanatic
I know that Lexus torques the lugnuts over 100ft-lbs if you don't say anything. This thread just reminded me to retorque them down to 76ft-lbs!! Emerald, how are you going to go about fixing this? Is your wheel bent at all? Luckily you stopped before something major happened! I remember when I got my car inspected before registering it, the damn shop only put three lugnuts on the rear wheels and probably pocketed the other four! 
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10-08-02, 01:56 AM
#8
The car was on a pretty busy street and the bad wheel was on the traffic side. I know how I wouldve been driving had i got on that freeway...and Im sure I wouldnt be up on CL tonite.
-Just pulled the car as close as i could to the curb. Had to remove the entire brake caliper & Rotor to hammer out the broken studs.
-Put car in neutral to rotate hub and Hammer them out.
--an auto parts store down the street had 4 Lexus studs in stock.
-Rotate hub to put them in (Small fingers came in handy) and then put the rotor back on with flat bolts to pull the new lugs through the hub.
-put caliper back together (wouldve been nice to change the ebrake pads and the brake pads because they looked like hell
)
--wheel back on and straight to a service station to have the lugs pulled through by an air tool.
hammer$19
studs$9.00
lugs$6.00
flat head screw driver$1.00
bolt (to tighten the studs.The lugs are tapered)$.35
Torque bar=Priceless
The whole deal took a few hours its not as hard as it looks. a flat wouldve been worse.
I know how I wouldve been driving had i got on that freeway...and Im sure I wouldnt be up on CL tonite. -Just pulled the car as close as i could to the curb. Had to remove the entire brake caliper & Rotor to hammer out the broken studs.
-Put car in neutral to rotate hub and Hammer them out.
--an auto parts store down the street had 4 Lexus studs in stock.
-Rotate hub to put them in (Small fingers came in handy) and then put the rotor back on with flat bolts to pull the new lugs through the hub.
-put caliper back together (wouldve been nice to change the ebrake pads and the brake pads because they looked like hell
)--wheel back on and straight to a service station to have the lugs pulled through by an air tool.
hammer$19
studs$9.00
lugs$6.00
flat head screw driver$1.00
bolt (to tighten the studs.The lugs are tapered)$.35
Torque bar=Priceless
The whole deal took a few hours its not as hard as it looks. a flat wouldve been worse.
10-08-02, 08:33 PM
#9
Pole Position
Join Date: Jun 2002
Location: Brentwood,
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thats close there emerald. My friend actually just called me 10 minuets or so ago because one of his wheels on his 4x4 that has a 7 inch lift on it broke off including his brake rotor while going 50 on a four lane road. He's alright thanks to the 5 point harness and roll cage setup he has but without that there could have been some problems.
All is well and i hope nobody ever actually looses a rim while driving.
All is well and i hope nobody ever actually looses a rim while driving.
10-08-02, 09:06 PM
#10
Instructor
Originally posted by Emerald
-Just pulled the car as close as i could to the curb. Had to remove the entire brake caliper & Rotor to hammer out the broken studs.
-Put car in neutral to rotate hub and Hammer them out.
--an auto parts store down the street had 4 Lexus studs in stock.
-Rotate hub to put them in (Small fingers came in handy) and then put the rotor back on with flat bolts to pull the new lugs through the hub.
-put caliper back together (wouldve been nice to change the ebrake pads and the brake pads because they looked like hell )
--wheel back on and straight to a service station to have the lugs pulled through by an air tool.
-Just pulled the car as close as i could to the curb. Had to remove the entire brake caliper & Rotor to hammer out the broken studs.
-Put car in neutral to rotate hub and Hammer them out.
--an auto parts store down the street had 4 Lexus studs in stock.
-Rotate hub to put them in (Small fingers came in handy) and then put the rotor back on with flat bolts to pull the new lugs through the hub.
-put caliper back together (wouldve been nice to change the ebrake pads and the brake pads because they looked like hell
)--wheel back on and straight to a service station to have the lugs pulled through by an air tool.
What more could a guy want? Emerald you are an angel sent from heaven.
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