Passenger Window Problem
#1
Intermediate
Thread Starter
Passenger Window Problem
I just tried to lower my passenger window, and it was completely dead. Driver's side works fine.
Tried both the switch on driver's side and passenger side. Neither worked to lower passenger window.
Popped the hood and swapped out Pass & Driver's fuses. Pass side fuse is ok - ran the Driver's side ok.
Dropped the top and both windows ran down and back up ok.
I'm guessing connection in driver's door(?). Maybe that switch for passenger window is bad?
Any ideas?
Thanks
Tried both the switch on driver's side and passenger side. Neither worked to lower passenger window.
Popped the hood and swapped out Pass & Driver's fuses. Pass side fuse is ok - ran the Driver's side ok.
Dropped the top and both windows ran down and back up ok.
I'm guessing connection in driver's door(?). Maybe that switch for passenger window is bad?
Any ideas?
Thanks
#2
Lead Lap
There are a number of things involved with the passenger window.
First lets look at the simple one: check your window lock on your driver's side door panel.
Everything else gets a little complicated or painful. Inside the door are the window switches. IIRC, the human controlled window switch itself is removable without taking the panel off. (Go see my DYI on replacing the triangular weatherstripping.) You should be able to pop that off without a lot of trouble to inspect the switch and the connection to it.
post # 37
https://www.clublexus.com/forums/sc-...d-noise-3.html
& post # 72
https://www.clublexus.com/forums/sc-...d-noise-5.html
If the switch or the connection is not the problem, then there is the window CU inside the door. (It is referenced in the DYI also.) It is the controlling unit for the window. (I think there is one in each door. There is definitely one in the driver's side door.) Check the connections on it and hope the CU is okay.
There is also the limit points that the WCU (I just made that name up) monitor. I think that the WCU monitors motor current draw limits and when the current exceeds the limits, it stops the window. (The limits are hard restraints that prevent the window from going beyond a certain point. They are used to set the height and tilt of the window. Also referenced in the DYI.)
I hope it is your window lock. Let us know what you find out.
First lets look at the simple one: check your window lock on your driver's side door panel.
Everything else gets a little complicated or painful. Inside the door are the window switches. IIRC, the human controlled window switch itself is removable without taking the panel off. (Go see my DYI on replacing the triangular weatherstripping.) You should be able to pop that off without a lot of trouble to inspect the switch and the connection to it.
post # 37
https://www.clublexus.com/forums/sc-...d-noise-3.html
& post # 72
https://www.clublexus.com/forums/sc-...d-noise-5.html
If the switch or the connection is not the problem, then there is the window CU inside the door. (It is referenced in the DYI also.) It is the controlling unit for the window. (I think there is one in each door. There is definitely one in the driver's side door.) Check the connections on it and hope the CU is okay.
There is also the limit points that the WCU (I just made that name up) monitor. I think that the WCU monitors motor current draw limits and when the current exceeds the limits, it stops the window. (The limits are hard restraints that prevent the window from going beyond a certain point. They are used to set the height and tilt of the window. Also referenced in the DYI.)
I hope it is your window lock. Let us know what you find out.
#4
Intermediate
Thread Starter
LOL! Boy, am I a Dumb***........ Thanks Harold - I had completely forgotten about the window lock switch.
Now all I have to do is replace the front subassembly brace and regrease my polyurethane sway bar bushings to stop the squeaks,.
Now all I have to do is replace the front subassembly brace and regrease my polyurethane sway bar bushings to stop the squeaks,.
#5
Lead Lap
Glad it was an easy one!
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