DIY: wooden shift knob
#31
Mortgage Slave
Nice job
What are you going to do about the shift released button at the top of the OEM shifter?
PS: Sorry if you already answered it, I'm sick and not sure if I read the thread properly
What are you going to do about the shift released button at the top of the OEM shifter?
PS: Sorry if you already answered it, I'm sick and not sure if I read the thread properly
#32
Driver
Thread Starter
i decided to take a pic of the gloss process as of right now. heres the moment u guys have been waitin for! lol
thanks a lot for the support emerald!
and another thank u to the rest of u guys sticking with the process!
*edit* and i think that assumption of it being darker on the top and bottom was right. its definitely darker on both. i think it gives it a nice effect though!
Last edited by SCjzz; 09-10-08 at 01:41 PM.
#35
Master Thread Closer!!
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Looks good...I did something similar awhile back to a shift **** I bought on ebay....and the color was a light yellow...so I stripped it down to bare wood....using various grits. I selected Minwax Polyshade Olde Maple Gloss 0430....I thought it was the best color match available.....dipped and let dry 3 separate times...then dipped in polyurethane twice for the clear coat. The color match was pretty good...imo.
Pete
Pete
Last edited by PHML; 09-10-08 at 02:42 PM.
#38
Driver
Thread Starter
thought about that actually, a hell of a lot more work would have to go into it tho lol
thanks a bunch man!
my cars in my dads shop, im still waiting for my harmonic balancer to arrive
once i get it back thts the first thing im doing.
oh and i shouldve tried the maple on it. i wanted to but i thought id listen to the mahogany request. if it doesnt match too well, it dont matter! ill just do my wood grain over. besides, the clear is cracking anyways
#39
No Sir, I Don't Like It
iTrader: (4)
As I look at the wood again. From my time working with wood, it doesn't seem you sanded the sides well, explaining why the stain didn't soak in very well. The top and bottom will soak DEEP because thats where the exposed grains are. You can try the maple out, but I think maple will be TOO light compared to the stock wood color inside. GL either way .
#40
Driver
Thread Starter
As I look at the wood again. From my time working with wood, it doesn't seem you sanded the sides well, explaining why the stain didn't soak in very well. The top and bottom will soak DEEP because thats where the exposed grains are. You can try the maple out, but I think maple will be TOO light compared to the stock wood color inside. GL either way .
any more deep in sanding the sides and id most likely end up with a totally different shape, a smaller ****, or a completely dark shift ****. i like the way its lighter on the sides and everything. it looks beautiful in person. it doesnt look fake and too perfect like the other ones you see! its not bad for diy u kno
but it really did work awesome. im glad it turned out the way it did. when i go to the shop i promise i will post pics installed. right now it is on an old ka24 shifter i had lying around.
#42
Driver
Thread Starter
ok i probably will dip it if it does come off. i have several clear coats on it. already but if it wears down...illl try it!
did you compare the stains? did they look similar?
and who wants one of these in the stain i have?? i can definitely reproduce this qualityand i can probably do 15-20 bucks, if u want the maple or walnut (or whatever) stain i need 25 cuz i gotta buy it first!
thanks for sticking with this thread and providing your opinions. you guys are the best.
did you compare the stains? did they look similar?
and who wants one of these in the stain i have?? i can definitely reproduce this qualityand i can probably do 15-20 bucks, if u want the maple or walnut (or whatever) stain i need 25 cuz i gotta buy it first!
thanks for sticking with this thread and providing your opinions. you guys are the best.