SC- 1st Gen (1992-2000)

Is my alternator shot?

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Old 10-10-15, 10:03 AM
  #16  
Bflatsharp
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Do the dash lights and everything stay on without it jumped? Try using the windows and see if they roll up/down at normal speeds, again w/o it jumped.

Could try cycling the key in the drivers door a few times in case the anti-theft system got set off.
Old 10-10-15, 11:27 AM
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GISguy
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Originally Posted by Bflatsharp
Do the dash lights and everything stay on without it jumped? Try using the windows and see if they roll up/down at normal speeds, again w/o it jumped.

Could try cycling the key in the drivers door a few times in case the anti-theft system got set off.
All of these things work, I'll try the cycling when I get home. Doesn't that just cut fuel thogh?
Old 10-10-15, 06:27 PM
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acklac7
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Did you replace the battery cables? Can't emphasize enough how much this sounds like a (bad) Grounding issue.

Try this: with the battery fully connected take a jumper cable and attach it to the negative battery terminal, then connect the other end to a sturdy metal connection on the engine block (I found a solid connection near the runners/manifold). Then try and start the car.
Old 10-10-15, 09:10 PM
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Originally Posted by acklac7
Did you replace the battery cables? Can't emphasize enough how much this sounds like a (bad) Grounding issue.

Try this: with the battery fully connected take a jumper cable and attach it to the negative battery terminal, then connect the other end to a sturdy metal connection on the engine block (I found a solid connection near the runners/manifold). Then try and start the car.
I will do this first thing tomorrow morning! I was planning on removing all the wiring that goes from the fuse box to the starter as well as the batteries to the fuse box and make a trip to Autozone for replacements anyway!
Old 10-11-15, 01:51 AM
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lateralnw
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Hi, I know it is a long shot but have you checked that the battery terminals are clean and tight? That the lead to the starter motor is able to hold high current.. normal running current will be only 10-50 amps but starter current in the hundreds of amps.

I've seen a similar thing with the glass fuse type,


where they will test fine with a multimeter for continuity but have no hope of handling high current. In this case it was for a high volume fuel pump. Replaced the fuse and all was fine. I'm not suggesting it is a fuse but just giving an example of how high and low current can give different results.

I noticed in your last vid that when you go to start you loose lights on the dash. This makes me think it is a poor electrical connection or perhaps even a damaged cable to your starter. It may not be obvious.

You said you where going to replace the cables but have you yet?

To check if the starter will spin use jumper cables and bypass all the in car electrics. Place the jumper leads on the battery terminals and the other positive lead on the starter motor, if the motor cranks then it is a wire problem from battery to starter motor.
It would be much easier if you could do this out of the car or course.

AGA type fuse

AGA fuse

Last edited by lateralnw; 10-11-15 at 01:55 AM. Reason: Image size reduced
Old 10-11-15, 07:13 AM
  #21  
GISguy
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UPDATE

Originally Posted by acklac7
Can't emphasize enough how much this sounds like a (bad) Grounding issue.

Try this: with the battery fully connected take a jumper cable and attach it to the negative battery terminal, then connect the other end to a sturdy metal connection on the engine block (I found a solid connection near the runners/manifold). Then try and start the car.
So I did this, and it didn't change anything.



Originally Posted by lateralnw
To check if the starter will spin use jumper cables and bypass all the in car electrics. Place the jumper leads on the battery terminals and the other positive lead on the starter motor, if the motor cranks then it is a wire problem from battery to starter motor.
Tried it, and:




I guess the moral of the story is to never underestimate bad connections on a 20-year-old vehicle.
Old 10-11-15, 06:19 PM
  #22  
lateralnw
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Originally Posted by GISguy
UPDATE

Tried it, and:




I guess the moral of the story is to never underestimate bad connections on a 20-year-old vehicle.
Man that is music to my ears. Fantastic to see a great result. Love the vid too.
Old 10-11-15, 07:06 PM
  #23  
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Originally Posted by lateralnw
Man that is music to my ears. Fantastic to see a great result. Love the vid too.
Yeah. Need to rig up a replacement cable set. One hitch- I pulled it out and I'm not quite sure if I have the little cable in the right place... Would you be able to verify? https://www.clublexus.com/forums/sc-1st-gen-1992-2000/799988-is-this-battery-wiring-setup-correct.html
Old 10-11-15, 09:56 PM
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lateralnw
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Originally Posted by GISguy
Yeah. Need to rig up a replacement cable set. One hitch- I pulled it out and I'm not quite sure if I have the little cable in the right place... Would you be able to verify? https://www.clublexus.com/forums/sc-...p-correct.html
answered you in your other thread.
Old 10-13-15, 05:08 AM
  #25  
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UPDATE:
After re-creating the starter wiring with 39" and a 19" starter-to-switch cables from AutoZone, she's up and running once again.

The aforementioned wiring is pictured in this thread:
https://www.clublexus.com/forums/sc-...p-correct.html

Special thanks to lateralnw for being so helpful.
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