MSD Digital 6 ignition w/ 2-step on my SC300 w/ vid
#1
MSD Digital 6 ignition w/ 2-step on my SC300 w/ vid
It's been sitting in my house for two years and I finally forced myself to try to put this in. If it wasn't for a VERY helpful member here (Angel) who had this setup many years ago, I don't think I would have had the confidence and direction to finish the installation.
I noticed the tachometer increases SLIGHTLY faster and smoother. The car starts faster as well LOL.
Install time: 1 year, 10 months. . Really-about 6 hours by myself with help from e-mail. It's still not finished yet either because I don't have a proper mount which will be aluminum instead of plastic cable ties. Pictures of the engine bay will come later. If I were handed another SC and asked to install it I could probably do the basics (no 2-step or timing retard switches) in less than an hour.
I like OEM looking aftermarket installs so I tried to get a switch for the two-step that was sort of like the other switches in the cabin. I put it to the left of the ashtray as you can see. This was ....unbelievably time consuming. I had to dremel and sand so much plastic off to make that style switch fit I'd probably pick a smaller cheesier looking switch if I had to do it again. The position needed to be close to the shifter and also out of the way so it wouldn't accidentally be pressed while driving. When it's on, the tw-step rev limiter is on and locks the engine RPM to a number you select on the ignition box itself. Useful for drag racing and finding the precisie RPM to get good launches. There's also a trigger for timing retard for nitrous (things to come...) If you want more info go to MSD's site and do some research on their ignitions.
I needed the wires to go through that little area so I ran them in front of the gears. I almost killed myself deciding on whether to dremel the ashtray because it was too hard to tell if it it would fit but I just said "screw it" after being frustrated and it worked out. I had to trim the contacts on the switch because they were too long and the wires wouldn't fit.
Only a small part of the mess from the dremel..there's still plastic on my clothes, in my eyes, nose, BLAHASDKFS. ALWAYS ALWAYS wear eye protection and a dust mask when using a dremel! I didn't and now I'm regretting it. Good thing I have a Neilmed sinus rinse kit..
AND here's a video of the two-step set to 2700 RPM.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qmQdPfP0358
I noticed the tachometer increases SLIGHTLY faster and smoother. The car starts faster as well LOL.
Install time: 1 year, 10 months. . Really-about 6 hours by myself with help from e-mail. It's still not finished yet either because I don't have a proper mount which will be aluminum instead of plastic cable ties. Pictures of the engine bay will come later. If I were handed another SC and asked to install it I could probably do the basics (no 2-step or timing retard switches) in less than an hour.
I like OEM looking aftermarket installs so I tried to get a switch for the two-step that was sort of like the other switches in the cabin. I put it to the left of the ashtray as you can see. This was ....unbelievably time consuming. I had to dremel and sand so much plastic off to make that style switch fit I'd probably pick a smaller cheesier looking switch if I had to do it again. The position needed to be close to the shifter and also out of the way so it wouldn't accidentally be pressed while driving. When it's on, the tw-step rev limiter is on and locks the engine RPM to a number you select on the ignition box itself. Useful for drag racing and finding the precisie RPM to get good launches. There's also a trigger for timing retard for nitrous (things to come...) If you want more info go to MSD's site and do some research on their ignitions.
I needed the wires to go through that little area so I ran them in front of the gears. I almost killed myself deciding on whether to dremel the ashtray because it was too hard to tell if it it would fit but I just said "screw it" after being frustrated and it worked out. I had to trim the contacts on the switch because they were too long and the wires wouldn't fit.
Only a small part of the mess from the dremel..there's still plastic on my clothes, in my eyes, nose, BLAHASDKFS. ALWAYS ALWAYS wear eye protection and a dust mask when using a dremel! I didn't and now I'm regretting it. Good thing I have a Neilmed sinus rinse kit..
AND here's a video of the two-step set to 2700 RPM.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qmQdPfP0358
Last edited by ISFFUN; 09-06-10 at 12:51 AM.
#3
Thanks for the compliment. I went back and editited my post to expalin the two-step better but here's a link to their product page. In short the supposed gains are more consistant spark, better gas mileage, better power, and features for drag/nitrous setups.
http://www.msdignition.com/Products/...n_Control.aspx
http://www.msdignition.com/Products/...n_Control.aspx
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#8
I have also been looking at MSD for an upgrade. I am replacing all of the ignition components, so I figure upgrading now would be a good investment. What is your overall opinion of the product for the price?
#9
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I am attempting to install an MSD Digital 6 on an SC300 and it's not working. The car will start for about 1 second and die. Bypassing the MSD will allow the car to run normally. Wiring was done according to the MSD directions, and 2 diferent MSDs were tried with the same results. Looks like the car's ecu is shutting down the spark output after briefly running.
Wonder if you can tell me how you wired yours?
Wonder if you can tell me how you wired yours?
#10
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Did some research and found that the MSD 8910EIS Tach Adaptor, wired per page 122 here:
http://www.msdignition.com/instructi...?terms=8910EIS
should give the stock igniter the proper load. This supposedly was successfully done on an SC300.
For the SC300, the wire from the ignition switch (original coil+) in the MSD diagram is brown/orange, and the original coil - wire shown is blue/white.
I have ordered the 8910EIS, will report results.
http://www.msdignition.com/instructi...?terms=8910EIS
should give the stock igniter the proper load. This supposedly was successfully done on an SC300.
For the SC300, the wire from the ignition switch (original coil+) in the MSD diagram is brown/orange, and the original coil - wire shown is blue/white.
I have ordered the 8910EIS, will report results.
#11
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I know this is old news, but this setup, from MSD tech forums, works well with the SC300. It is the same as the MSD installation manual specifies, with SC300 specific coil wire colors shown.
+ wire is black/brown removed from the coil, and - wire is the white/blue wire removed from the coil.
I had to fix the diagram as the two original coil wires were shown reversed from the correct config.
+ wire is black/brown removed from the coil, and - wire is the white/blue wire removed from the coil.
I had to fix the diagram as the two original coil wires were shown reversed from the correct config.
Last edited by speeder; 01-27-11 at 07:47 AM.
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The igniter goes nowhere - still in the circuit - you do all the wiring changes at the two stock coil connections and leave the igniter wiring as-is.
Probably a good time to upgrade the coil while we're at it - I'm using an MSD Blaster SS coil.
Probably a good time to upgrade the coil while we're at it - I'm using an MSD Blaster SS coil.
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