RX300 noise and "lag" at front wheels?
11-04-14, 07:05 AM
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RX300 noise and "lag" at front wheels?
Hi everyone,
This may be a long shot but wondering if anyone can help diagnose this noise / experience. I have a 2001 RX 300 with about 130k miles on it. The last month it has started to sort of "lag" from time to time. From a stop or at very slow speed, I step on the accelerator and you sort of feel the car "resist." There is a "whirr" or sort of "grinding" noise from around the front of the car / front axle. It feels like something is spinning before the front wheels catch (though the tires are definitely not spinning). If you let off the gas and start again, or just keep giving it gas slowly, the car then goes normally. No warning lights come on (e.g. the traction control lights).
It is inconsistent when it happens. Seems more likely when pointing up hill or with front wheels turned at a stop, waiting to make a turn. I took it to the shop but of course the noise / behavior didn't happen on our test drive.
Thanks for your help!
Jim
This may be a long shot but wondering if anyone can help diagnose this noise / experience. I have a 2001 RX 300 with about 130k miles on it. The last month it has started to sort of "lag" from time to time. From a stop or at very slow speed, I step on the accelerator and you sort of feel the car "resist." There is a "whirr" or sort of "grinding" noise from around the front of the car / front axle. It feels like something is spinning before the front wheels catch (though the tires are definitely not spinning). If you let off the gas and start again, or just keep giving it gas slowly, the car then goes normally. No warning lights come on (e.g. the traction control lights).
It is inconsistent when it happens. Seems more likely when pointing up hill or with front wheels turned at a stop, waiting to make a turn. I took it to the shop but of course the noise / behavior didn't happen on our test drive.
Thanks for your help!
Jim
11-04-14, 07:35 AM
#2
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Jim:
When was the brake fluid purged?
I would also check if the caliper is hanging .... the bolts need to be free of rust and lubed (sparingly) with proper grease.
Salim
When was the brake fluid purged?
I would also check if the caliper is hanging .... the bolts need to be free of rust and lubed (sparingly) with proper grease.
Salim
11-04-14, 08:34 AM
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Salim,
The brakes were flushed about 4 years ago / 21k miles ago. About 1 year ago / 6K miles ago my mechanic suggested flushing the brake fluid around now.
Jim
The brakes were flushed about 4 years ago / 21k miles ago. About 1 year ago / 6K miles ago my mechanic suggested flushing the brake fluid around now.
Jim
11-04-14, 09:47 AM
#4
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For brakes to release, they rely on free flow of fluid back to the reservoir and mechanical push back of the pistons by the rotor to the pads due to run-out (expected play in the bearing).
So purge and service the brakes.
Salim
So purge and service the brakes.
Salim
11-08-14, 08:04 PM
#5
I second what Salim said.
I had a caliper seize up on me. It was after last winter when we had a lot of salt on the roads. There is a boot that seals the caliper piston. Mine had a tiny crack in it & it eventually seized, but not until mid summer. I don't recall hearing a noise. My first clue was when I smelled burning brake pad.
You can buy a rebuild kit for about $5 for each caliper. The hardest part was cleaning all the rust off of them and installing the new boot without damaging it. Just be sure not to score the piston or piston housing and make sure the pin moves freely (one of mine needed a good cleaning and lube).
You have to dig around to find the retaining ring for the boot.
My best friends during this job: a dremel with lots of wire brush attachments & a bench grinder with wire brush wheel.
I had a caliper seize up on me. It was after last winter when we had a lot of salt on the roads. There is a boot that seals the caliper piston. Mine had a tiny crack in it & it eventually seized, but not until mid summer. I don't recall hearing a noise. My first clue was when I smelled burning brake pad.
You can buy a rebuild kit for about $5 for each caliper. The hardest part was cleaning all the rust off of them and installing the new boot without damaging it. Just be sure not to score the piston or piston housing and make sure the pin moves freely (one of mine needed a good cleaning and lube).
You have to dig around to find the retaining ring for the boot.
My best friends during this job: a dremel with lots of wire brush attachments & a bench grinder with wire brush wheel.
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