DIY: Front Lower Control Arms
#1
Pit Crew
Thread Starter
DIY: Front Lower Control Arms
So most of our RX's are old enough, with enough miles that our stock suspension bushings are all but dead. Mine were fairly dry rotted and cracked badly.
I've replaced 90% of all the rubber in my suspension and have done it all in short time without spending much money (parts only, no labor).
I was getting a slight shimmy in my steering wheel at 65-80mph. Depending on the temperature, it could be more pronounced or less (hot weather softens bushings, cold hardens).
So, I knew my control arm bushings were well worn.
A few members had crappy success with trying to remove bushings and press in new ones. Plus for just a little more (money) you can just buy the arms with bushings already installed. It's the only way as far as I'm concerned.
I found a deal on Moog LCA's (Lower Control Arms) that I couldn't pass up. No joke, I paid $17.85 for one and $30ish for the other side. Obviously at those prices I was willing to try aftermarket over OEM. Plus I've had great experience with Moog parts in the past so I was fairly confident.
This was by far made much simpler with air tools and breaker bars haha.
Tools needed:
14mm socket
19mm socket
Breaker bar
Long shaft screwdriver or a pry bar
Socket wrench (bigger and beefier the better)
Optional but HIGHLY recommended:
Impact gun for power and speed
Ok, now I had the help of using my shop at work to put the car up in the air and work partially with the car at shoulder height or above me. This made using the 3' breaker bar easier to position. But it'd still work down on jack stands.
Lift and properly support vehicle.
Remove wheels
Remove the pair of bolts on the inner bushing
Remove rear bolt
Remove 2 ball joint nuts and one bolt
Pry ball joint studs out of control arm
Swing control arm to the rear, pivoting on the rear bushing (keep watch on the washer above, don't lose it)
Pull arm out
Replacement is exactly the same but in reverse.
I do not have torque values, I put them on with my impact on medium setting (They ain't coming off haha).
None of these bolts actually do more than secure the arm in place so a little over torque didn't bother me in the least.
There was a lot of prying and some pushing up on the ball joint to remove tension, but it was all in all a very easy job.
Afterwards my steering felt tightened and all signs of steering wheel shimmy are gone completely. Night and day difference.
It's an easy job, don't pay someone to do it haha
I've replaced 90% of all the rubber in my suspension and have done it all in short time without spending much money (parts only, no labor).
I was getting a slight shimmy in my steering wheel at 65-80mph. Depending on the temperature, it could be more pronounced or less (hot weather softens bushings, cold hardens).
So, I knew my control arm bushings were well worn.
A few members had crappy success with trying to remove bushings and press in new ones. Plus for just a little more (money) you can just buy the arms with bushings already installed. It's the only way as far as I'm concerned.
I found a deal on Moog LCA's (Lower Control Arms) that I couldn't pass up. No joke, I paid $17.85 for one and $30ish for the other side. Obviously at those prices I was willing to try aftermarket over OEM. Plus I've had great experience with Moog parts in the past so I was fairly confident.
This was by far made much simpler with air tools and breaker bars haha.
Tools needed:
14mm socket
19mm socket
Breaker bar
Long shaft screwdriver or a pry bar
Socket wrench (bigger and beefier the better)
Optional but HIGHLY recommended:
Impact gun for power and speed
Ok, now I had the help of using my shop at work to put the car up in the air and work partially with the car at shoulder height or above me. This made using the 3' breaker bar easier to position. But it'd still work down on jack stands.
Lift and properly support vehicle.
Remove wheels
Remove the pair of bolts on the inner bushing
Remove rear bolt
Remove 2 ball joint nuts and one bolt
Pry ball joint studs out of control arm
Swing control arm to the rear, pivoting on the rear bushing (keep watch on the washer above, don't lose it)
Pull arm out
Replacement is exactly the same but in reverse.
I do not have torque values, I put them on with my impact on medium setting (They ain't coming off haha).
None of these bolts actually do more than secure the arm in place so a little over torque didn't bother me in the least.
There was a lot of prying and some pushing up on the ball joint to remove tension, but it was all in all a very easy job.
Afterwards my steering felt tightened and all signs of steering wheel shimmy are gone completely. Night and day difference.
It's an easy job, don't pay someone to do it haha
#2
Moderator
Nice write up. Thanks for the info!
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