BBT

Hi Folks,

Has anyone tried dropping the headliner in a '01 RX?

I want to drill holes for a couple of ham antennas within the last 2 feet near the back (I have a sunroof) and I'm wondering if it's possible to just drop down the rear section a little without going through the whole process.

Only someone who's attempted this would really know. I'm also wondering about the amount of insulation I'd encounter, and if it's possible to find spots where there's just a single layer of metal to punch through.

I'm afraid if I have someone do this for me, it will cost a fortune and they still might break something.

Doug

hypervish

You could put the antenna where the lights are in the roof, because that way all you have to do is take the light down pop a couple of holes for the antenna and make it weatherproof and then just run the antenna wire, much easier than taking the whole headliner down.

code58

Where are the lights in the roof of an RX??? If you mean the 3rd brake light, that's in the rear hatch. Maybe I missed something here.

Edit: Sorry, I didn't think about the dome light. Normally not to good a place because almost for certain it's on a roof reinforcement. Worth a try though. Shouldn't be hard to pull the dome light and take a look.

code58

Doug, I did Code 3 outfitting for a major law enforcement agency for a number of years and we virtually always had to pull the headliner to install light bars and antennas. We never pulled the whole headliner down though, usually just a corner so that we could pull it down enough that we could get a hand and arm in to pull the cables in. We did have to pull it the 1st time on a new model to make CERTAIN that where you chose wasn't going through a reinforcement, you had to choose a spot where there was only one layer, no reinforcement involvement whatsoever. It's a little bit of work, but not major. Obviously, the side trim that has to be removed can be a little involved sometimes. On large SUV's where there were a lot of roof reinforcements, I would pull it at one door opening just enough that I could look in with a flashlight to make sure I wasn't on a reinforcement then tape a small steel cable (1/8 in.) to the end of the antenna and feed it over to the door opening where I could then route it correctly. We used antenna hole saws that I assume you are familiar with. They limit the amount the saw will go through to about 1/8 in. so that you don't put a hole in the headliner. Hope that helps a little anyway.

P.S. I've put as many as 7 antennas in a row on an SUV. That was a challenge to miss all the reinforcements and still space them evenly.
Where are you in Ca.? If You were close enough I'd do it for you.

BBT

Code58, I'm in Newport Beach, near Hoag Hospital.

I used to have an '88 Pathfinder, and right above the dome light, there was a reinforcement there, but with a large hole in it leading to the single layer. Almost like it was there for the exact purpose of mounting an antenna. What a piece of cake that was, and I was able to run the coax down the side pillar.

Unfortunately, I have a sunroof that slides back internally, and the dome light is located within that zone.

The idea about dropping the headliner slightly gave me an idea I hadn't thought of until this moment: I have a flexible fiberscope that I can use to take a peek in there, maybe by going through the back of the sliding inner moonroof cover. I could also drop the rear dome light and take a look from that end as well.

I really didn't want to drop the headliner from any point where I'd need to remove any weatherstripping, out of fear that it would never be the same again.

I'll take the fiberscope and see what I can see, and then report back.

code58

Yes, I have a borescope also, don't use it very often but it might be the ticket. Let us know how you come out. If you have problems, I live in F.V.

carguy07

Might help some: https://www.clublexus.com/forums/rx-...tallation.html

BBT

Carguy, thank you, I had seen that thread earlier. One advantage that person had is the lack of moonroof. I got the impression that he didn't have to drop his headliner all the way down, and I probably wont either.

Code58, you're practically in my backyard - that's great.

Do you have NMO hole-cutting saws, and are they specific to an antenna brand, i.e. Larsen?

I was able to remove the "Roof Headlining Rear Trim" to get a peek inside. There is a reinforcement about 18" forward from the back, but it's all single-layer before that. Dropping the headliner down would probably reveal that the sliding roof housing starts shortly forward of that reinforcement. I could live with putting the antenna within the area behind the reinforcement. I think this could all be accomplished without removing weatherstippings or anything else past the rear cargo area.

My bigger problem might end up being how to get the power from the engine compartment. The radio has a detachable control panel that can connect via network cable. I could leave the antenna coax at the back and place the radio there. If I can get power (10 amps) to it.

bob2200

I go back to when the NMO (New MOtorola) mount came out, to replace the MO (MOtorola) mount. Unless people are now deviating from the defacto standard, the holes should all be the same size for all NMO mounts.

BBT

I would hope so, but the risks of a mistake, i.e., too large of a hole, could be a serious bummer.

code58

BBT- the hole cutting saw fittings I have are "Cablematic-HSA-1" and cut aprox. a 3/4 in. hole. (actually mic's at .725) All the antennas we installed were the same type base that took that hole. The power would actually be a pretty simple task. With a 10A demand 14Ga would be plenty, but I tend to err on the side of caution and might go 12Ga but that would be WAY beyond what would be needed. I tend to prefer to go directly to the battery and if you need ign. controlled, use a relay. I'm not a fan of tapping to something along the way. Fuse before the relay and all is safe. Or if there are proper ign. sources at the under hood box, connect the relay trigger wire after the fuse on that line and the relay trigger is protected also. The power to the rear can easily be concealed and I prefer to run it in small split loom for protection. The relay trigger takes so little amperage it doesn't matter where it's connected. Hope that helps, if more is needed, just ask.

code58

Also, BBT, I have an abundance of wire of all kinds if you need any.

BBT

Code58, PM sent.