2000 rx 300 antenna
#61
Intermediate
Sorry to bring this back.
My antenna is neither going up or down.
I can hear the motor going and stopping after a while upon starting the car or shutting the car off.
I assume that means the tooth are broken and I must go all the way down to the motor.
My question is, with so many people having problem with the mast.
Are there alternatives to just put a shorter permanent antenna on?
Anybody with some info on that?
My antenna is neither going up or down.
I can hear the motor going and stopping after a while upon starting the car or shutting the car off.
I assume that means the tooth are broken and I must go all the way down to the motor.
My question is, with so many people having problem with the mast.
Are there alternatives to just put a shorter permanent antenna on?
Anybody with some info on that?
#63
Intermediate
I've looked up ebay on the antenna and I am trying to stay away from retractable ones if possible.
Anybody seen these before and know if it's easy to install?
If I disconnect the current motor, would any engine code come on?
http://www.ebay.ca/itm/CARBON-BLACK-...#ht_4873wt_905
http://www.ebay.ca/itm/BLACK-BULLET-...#ht_4826wt_898
http://www.ebay.ca/itm/CHROME-BLACK-...#ht_4587wt_898
Anybody seen these before and know if it's easy to install?
If I disconnect the current motor, would any engine code come on?
http://www.ebay.ca/itm/CARBON-BLACK-...#ht_4873wt_905
http://www.ebay.ca/itm/BLACK-BULLET-...#ht_4826wt_898
http://www.ebay.ca/itm/CHROME-BLACK-...#ht_4587wt_898
#64
"If I disconnect the current motor, would any engine code come on?"
Nope, the car will never know the difference. Give one of those shorty's a shot and report back. Mine is broken for the 3rd time now.
Nope, the car will never know the difference. Give one of those shorty's a shot and report back. Mine is broken for the 3rd time now.
#65
I would have recommended just take it to the dealer for service and ask them to wash it. Twice I've had the car jockey run it through the car wash with the radio on, breaking it. I've gotten two new masts that way!
#66
Lexus Test Driver
The only reason I want to install one is so that when the stupid motor makes noise in the back, it actually moves something. Because at this point, whenever I turn the radio on or off, the antenna motor runs for a good 30 seconds, and it's annoying because It doesn't move anything, as I pulled the antenna out of there a long time ago. Plus, my friends don't realize it's the antenna, they think it's about to blow up. lol
If I don't end up buying the $15 antenna mast, is there a way to just disconnect the antenna motor without disconnecting the antenna. Because, my antenna does still work, just not well.
#67
Driver School Candidate
Join Date: Oct 2012
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Thank you so much for this guide. I was able to buy the mast for about $17 and fix it myself. The cable was broken in the motor so I had to open everything to take the little piece out. One big mistake I made was to close everything back up before I installed the new antennae mast. The cable wasn't engagine in the motor, so I had to open everything back up again and I realized there was a small piece of cable wedged inside the shaft for the antennae that leads to the motor.
After I got that out, the new antennae mast went in on the first try!
After I got that out, the new antennae mast went in on the first try!
#68
Can't get new cable to go into antenna
The Gazi001 description is spot-on and thorough, and I wanted to add a few notes I took yesterday while replacing my RX300 (vintage 2000 and on its third transmission...another thread but not here) antenna mast. I removed the slotted chromed nut holding the antenna mast in place by using a very dull, half inch wide screwdriver blade, and taping against each of the four slots using a hammer with the dull screwdriver blade. The nut came off easily and the remains of the antenna and its toothed drive plastic were readily removed. I did not need to remove the hinged rear deck that covers the spare tire, but did prop up the hinged floor, and did remove one of the large push pins that holds down the hinged flap and the smaller panel push pin nearby.
There is a plastic hook attached the underside of the hinged deck, and this I used to hold the side panel out of my work area. I suspect this hook is used specifically to hold the panel when servicing the antenna power unit, since it cannot be hooked to anything else nearby. Rather than remove the drain tube from the wheel well, I cut a slot in a shallow cardboard box for the drain tube and worked on the motor while still attached to the drain tube.
Removed the power assembly screws and the broken end of the toothed plastic actuator; cleaned the two large drive gears, applied fresh Aeroshell lube to these two gears, and completed the reassembly. The antenna channel conduit is inserted before the power cable is reattached, due to the short length of this cable. Antenna cable is reattached, along with the power plug. Loosely mounted the motor assembly and reattached same using the two 10 mm screws.
Purchased the OEM replacement antenna mast from antennamastsrus.com ($29.50 including shipping) for P/N 86337-0W030 showing on the invoice. The actual parts bag listed P/N 86300-0W010-B (Mexico). Threaded the toothed actuator plastic lead into the antenna housing. One needs be a little aggressive in pushing this lead to begin engaging the teeth of the drive gears, as there is a small ridge the end of the toothed lead must be "bumped over" just upstream from becoming engaged by the takeup gear. A good brisk thrust of this plastic lead should get it beyond this hang-up and engaged, while the significant other turns off the radio. The interior panels do not need to be removed if the drive lead is fully intact, with no broken parts left in the takeup reel on the motor. Tech Service (Tech@AntennaMastsRus.com) responded quickly to my installation inquiries and installation instructions are provided on the back of the sales invoice. Phone support is found at 920-686-0644 or -9688. I will upload some pictures that may help the next soul needing to replace the mast.
There is a plastic hook attached the underside of the hinged deck, and this I used to hold the side panel out of my work area. I suspect this hook is used specifically to hold the panel when servicing the antenna power unit, since it cannot be hooked to anything else nearby. Rather than remove the drain tube from the wheel well, I cut a slot in a shallow cardboard box for the drain tube and worked on the motor while still attached to the drain tube.
Removed the power assembly screws and the broken end of the toothed plastic actuator; cleaned the two large drive gears, applied fresh Aeroshell lube to these two gears, and completed the reassembly. The antenna channel conduit is inserted before the power cable is reattached, due to the short length of this cable. Antenna cable is reattached, along with the power plug. Loosely mounted the motor assembly and reattached same using the two 10 mm screws.
Purchased the OEM replacement antenna mast from antennamastsrus.com ($29.50 including shipping) for P/N 86337-0W030 showing on the invoice. The actual parts bag listed P/N 86300-0W010-B (Mexico). Threaded the toothed actuator plastic lead into the antenna housing. One needs be a little aggressive in pushing this lead to begin engaging the teeth of the drive gears, as there is a small ridge the end of the toothed lead must be "bumped over" just upstream from becoming engaged by the takeup gear. A good brisk thrust of this plastic lead should get it beyond this hang-up and engaged, while the significant other turns off the radio. The interior panels do not need to be removed if the drive lead is fully intact, with no broken parts left in the takeup reel on the motor. Tech Service (Tech@AntennaMastsRus.com) responded quickly to my installation inquiries and installation instructions are provided on the back of the sales invoice. Phone support is found at 920-686-0644 or -9688. I will upload some pictures that may help the next soul needing to replace the mast.
My problem was with reinserting the new notched antenna cable. Gazi001wrote "It should not require any force." Mark2008 wrote, "Threaded the toothed actuator plastic lead into the antenna housing. One needs be a little aggressive in pushing this lead to begin engaging the teeth of the drive gears, as there is a small ridge the end of the toothed lead must be "bumped over" just upstream from becoming engaged by the takeup gear. A good brisk thrust of this plastic lead should get it beyond this hang-up and engaged, while the significant other turns off the radio."
I knew the teeth had faced forward but I tried 9 or 10 times - even with the teeth facing the opposite direction. I just couldn't get the antenna motor to catch the new cable. Any specifics from folks who have had the same problem? I've still got the motor accessible so I can complete the DIY fix.
One more question on lubrication. I didn't have any grease and Gazi001 was right about how much lubrication was in the white circular plate. Instead of spraying WD40 on the cable I just took excess grease from the old cable and put it on the teeth of the new cable. I didn't clean the remaining grease inside the white circular plate figuring the grease was needed but there was much less grease after the transfer to the new cable. But that wasn't an issue yet since the new cable hasn't reached the white circular plate yet.
Help on cable insertion and the best grease to use - ordered some Permatex White Lithium Grease (Aerosol Can) and some Boeshield T-9 Waterproof Lubrication liquid for my bicycle that should arrive today. Either or both (one for the cable and housing and one for the metal antenna) can be used unless there is a more specific/better grease to use.
Thanks!
#69
Driver School Candidate
Join Date: Jul 2015
Location: Oregon
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Antenna mast cable won't catch
I am sure you verified that the motor and the plastic nylon gears are is still good?
I had the same problem after removing the broken plastic toothed cable left in the motor housing. When inserting the new cable in the motor housing it did not catch. Luckily I had not replaced the interior cover yet. So I took the motor housing apart again and discovered that there was a small piece of broken cable in the mast channel itself. Had to unblock it with a piece of stiff wire or coat hanger. Now when I inserted the new cable and turning off the radio it went fine. The antenna went all the way down. I had wiped off the old dried grease from the cable gears and teeth and added a small amount of new lithium grease. Based on recommendations from the Mercedes forum, I applied L5 Liquid Wrench dry lubricant from Gunk with "Cerflon", which is a teflon based chemical. The Gunk web site has a You Tube link showing how this dry lubricant will not collect dirt. It will need to be reapplied periodically. Do not use regular oil which can dry out and collect dirt. My antenna runs up and down very smoothly now.
Good luck.
I had the same problem after removing the broken plastic toothed cable left in the motor housing. When inserting the new cable in the motor housing it did not catch. Luckily I had not replaced the interior cover yet. So I took the motor housing apart again and discovered that there was a small piece of broken cable in the mast channel itself. Had to unblock it with a piece of stiff wire or coat hanger. Now when I inserted the new cable and turning off the radio it went fine. The antenna went all the way down. I had wiped off the old dried grease from the cable gears and teeth and added a small amount of new lithium grease. Based on recommendations from the Mercedes forum, I applied L5 Liquid Wrench dry lubricant from Gunk with "Cerflon", which is a teflon based chemical. The Gunk web site has a You Tube link showing how this dry lubricant will not collect dirt. It will need to be reapplied periodically. Do not use regular oil which can dry out and collect dirt. My antenna runs up and down very smoothly now.
Good luck.
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