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Hatch and tail light issues

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Old 11-17-16, 07:44 AM
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RedGemini
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Default Hatch and tail light issues

Hello. Just purchased an '05 Premium AWD yesterday. The hatch wouldn't open by remote, but it would if I opened and closed it a few times. I oiled the struts, which seems to do the trick for now. I only did that to rule out other possible causes. I'll be replacing them soon.

It's had the tail light warning light lit when turning on the headlights. I discovered the parking lights on the hatch were both out. After opening and closing the hatch, they came on and the warning light went out.

As of today, I checked both bulbs, and both look fine. Neither have broken filaments. I checked the lights, and both were out. Opening and closing the hatch brought them back on, and all is fine at the moment.

Coincidently, when I pressed the button to open the hatch, it opened by itself, then started beeping again and immediately closed by itself. It's done this a few times today. It seems I have to play with the button for it to open and stay open.

Has anyone ran across something like this before? Could there be something shorting out in the hatch?

Thanks for any input.
Attached Thumbnails Hatch and tail light issues-img_2708.jpg.jpeg  
Old 11-17-16, 08:23 AM
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DennisMik
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You hatch opening problem may be that the gas struts for the hatch may be getting weak and that makes the hatch too heavy.

I don't know about the tail lights. Maybe there is a loose connection and somehow the hatch opening and closing moves the wires.
Old 11-17-16, 10:25 AM
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I'd almost guarantee the gas struts are the problem when it comes to opening and closing, although it might be worth checking that the lift motor is lubricated adequately.

As for the lights problem, most likely a loose wire rather than the bulbs.
Old 11-18-16, 02:47 AM
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Thank you. The struts makes perfect sense. Before the oil, no problem with staying open... oil = easier opening AND closing... for weaker struts.

I think I discovered the light problem. When I replaced the bulbs yesterday, I realized the driver's side bulb doesn't quite click into place, staying a tad sloppy. It just won't stay in the socket very snug like it should. I'm going to see if there are tabs I can try to bend just a tad to secure the bulb better. If that doesn't work, I'll have to look into replacing the socket.
Old 11-24-16, 06:03 AM
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New hatch struts came yesterday, and I installed them. That problem is solved. Power lift gate is working like new. As for the tail lights, I'll have to see if I can do something to keep the bulb in tighter. It still randomly won't light up, causing the idiot light on the dash to come on.
Old 11-24-16, 10:47 AM
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If the light bulb is loose and can wiggle in the socket, maybe you can slide a thin piece of metal into the socket to act as a shim between the bulb and the socket wall.
Old 11-24-16, 05:26 PM
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I would check the fuses as well. it might not be the correct bulb (the loose one). You should upgrade to LED anyway.
Old 11-26-16, 06:01 AM
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When the lights work, they work, so I know it's not a fuse issue. I'll have to see if I can do something with the prongs, maybe squeeze them tighter to hold the bulb better.
Old 01-08-17, 06:28 AM
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A little update: the light hasn't been an issue for quite some time now. I did not do anything to the socket...

However, the other day I noticed the tail light failure light came on again. When I checked, the driver's side main tail light was out (brake light area). A light smack and it came back on. I read on here that the brake light is LED, but the parking lights are incandescent, correct? It's been fine since the smack, but I have a feeling a bulb replacement will be needed at some point.

I've been looking into possibly going all LED, but man... this thing has a TON of bulbs. Will I still need resistors with "error free CAN-BUS" LED lights?
Old 01-08-17, 10:37 AM
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Originally Posted by RedGemini
A little update: the light hasn't been an issue for quite some time now. I did not do anything to the socket...

However, the other day I noticed the tail light failure light came on again. When I checked, the driver's side main tail light was out (brake light area). A light smack and it came back on. I read on here that the brake light is LED, but the parking lights are incandescent, correct? It's been fine since the smack, but I have a feeling a bulb replacement will be needed at some point.

I've been looking into possibly going all LED, but man... this thing has a TON of bulbs. Will I still need resistors with "error free CAN-BUS" LED lights?
I believe so, since the brake lights are monitored by the BECU. Only bulbs that don't need to be CAN-BUS from my experience are the interior lights and reverse. I'm looking to change them myself too, already changed the backup lights to LED (non CAN-BUS), no issues there. Let me know what you get and if it works!
Old 01-08-17, 10:50 AM
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The CAN BUS lamps have resistors built into them to prevent a lmp out indicator. But you don't want to use CAN BUS lamps everywhere, only in spots that are monitored by the car's computer.

Here is a link to some info on the CAN Bus lamps - https://www.superbrightleds.com/blog...led-bulbs/293/

While there are a lot of lamps in the car as you said, you don't have to replace them all. Just replace what you feel is needed or hat you want.
Old 01-26-17, 02:07 PM
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tkpischel
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Smile tkpischel

Originally Posted by RedGemini
Hello. Just purchased an '05 Premium AWD yesterday. The hatch wouldn't open by remote, but it would if I opened and closed it a few times. I oiled the struts, which seems to do the trick for now. I only did that to rule out other possible causes. I'll be replacing them soon.

It's had the tail light warning light lit when turning on the headlights. I discovered the parking lights on the hatch were both out. After opening and closing the hatch, they came on and the warning light went out.

As of today, I checked both bulbs, and both look fine. Neither have broken filaments. I checked the lights, and both were out. Opening and closing the hatch brought them back on, and all is fine at the moment.

Coincidently, when I pressed the button to open the hatch, it opened by itself, then started beeping again and immediately closed by itself. It's done this a few times today. It seems I have to play with the button for it to open and stay open.

Has anyone ran across something like this before? Could there be something shorting out in the hatch?

Thanks for any input.
Try reading the manual about replacing the battery. One must reset the windows and lift gate. Start by opening the lift gate all the way. Push and hold for at least a second the power door button on the lower left of the instrument panel. The lift gate should close. Try to open with the key or with the button on the instrument panel and you should have success.
Old 01-27-17, 04:51 AM
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Originally Posted by tkpischel
Try reading the manual about replacing the battery. One must reset the windows and lift gate. Start by opening the lift gate all the way. Push and hold for at least a second the power door button on the lower left of the instrument panel. The lift gate should close. Try to open with the key or with the button on the instrument panel and you should have success.
Thanks, but as mentioned above, new struts solved the problem.
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