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I replaced my 2008 RX350 serpentine belt at 120,000 miles. One belt rib (out of 7) was slightly cracked in a couple of places but still very usable. This is why Lexus recommends 120K miles for first tune-up. The belt replacement is simple. Can be completed from the right wheel well. Use a .250 dia pin, drill-bit or bolt to hold back the tensioner pulley. I used a 14mm wrench with a short PVC pipe for leverage to relieve the tension, then inserted a short .250 dia rod (or smaller) through the tensioner hole into the housing - I used the back of a grinding bit as shown in the pic. This gave plenty of slack for replacing the belt. I do NOT recommend using a W-belt design, they do not hold up well.I had a new one out of the box which had a flaw in it, took it back and bought a cheaper one that has lasted well.
Last edited by Dink; 05-30-16 at 11:04 AM.
Reason: Added pics
I just did this today on my 07 RX350 w/ 110K miles on it. the original belt was still in great shape, i couldn't find any cracks or any imperfection with it. Too bad you can't really inspect the condition of the belt until you have the entire belt removed! I replaced it w/ an OEM Toyota belt purchased on amazon and shipped by a toyota dealership.
I used a 1/4 inch drive 14mm socket to move the tensioner. Like the person above, you have to use a pipe cheater bar to attach to the wrench to get enough leverage unless if you're hercules. I thought there wasn't going to be enough room to get my hands in there but once i actually started it there is *just* enough space to do the job!
I guess my only tip would be to really just get under there, feel around and make sure the belt is actually on each of the pulleys with your hand to verify that it's in place.
Did the job on my 07 with 169k on the engine. From the records provided by the PO, looks like it was never changed before. PO had noted a belt squeal upon startup in cold weather, but said their mechanic assured them it was not an issue, and had been driving like that for some time. Old Belt had some small cracks when flexed but I've seen worse.
Replacement is not easy if you have fat forearms and hands. I found that my long handled 14mm box wrench worked perfectly to compress the tensioner. For those who like to collect tools, I got it from a harbor freight set which is great value for the money considering there's a lifetime no questions asked warranty.
FYI......I managed to use a 14 mm socket with my "favorite" 3/8 inch drive socket tool which is shown in the attached photo.
The distance is exactly 1.5 inches from the end of the 14 mm socket to the back end of the socket tool. 1.5 inch is barely enough clearance to make it work and I avoided using an open wrench which is difficult to get leverage unless your wrenches are extra long.
My 3/8 drive socket tool is about 11 inches long so I had enough muscle to compress the tension pulley with one hand until I inserted a L shaped hex key to lock it in place with the other hand. I estimate about 50 ft lbs of torque is needed. I am age 68 so a younger guy can do it easily. Having the right tool makes all the difference in the world. In my case, I did not need a cheater bar to get the leverage...although that was my backup plan.
I strongly recommend making your own sketch of all the grooved pulleys and all the smooth pulleys and where the belt goes. Make notes on the sketch. I discovered looping the tension pulley or the engine pulley should be done last. Looping the belt over pulley to the alternator is a PITA and I had to disconnect a AC hose bracket so I can insert my hand from above since it is difficult to do it from below. Finally, double check and triple check that the belt is centered on all the pulleys. Torque the tension pulley and remove the hex tool to unlock the tension pulley and you are done except for a final visual inspection and starting the engine. I always feel great when there is no usual engine sound every time I start the engine after a job like this.
A couple quick notes ... You will need a flat wrench (14 mm I believe) ... You cannot use a socket on it with a ratchet ... Not enough room. Also ... Make sure you have plenty of lighting. I had my office light which worked well.
I used a long offset 14mm box end wrench and it worked like a charmp to get over the pulleys and take the tension off the belt. A 5 mm hex wrench (L-shaped) inserted into the base of the tensioner locked the tensioner in the loose position while removing and insalling the belt and idler pulleys. If removing the tensioner pulley, it is threaded in reverse so left is tight and right is loose.
A couple quick notes ... You will need a flat wrench (14 mm I believe) ... You cannot use a socket on it with a ratchet ... Not enough room. Also ... Make sure you have plenty of lighting. I had my office light which worked well.
I used a long offset 14mm box end wrench and it worked like a charmp to get over the pulleys and take the tension off the belt. A 5 mm hex wrench (L-shaped) inserted into the base of the tensioner locked the tensioner in the loose position while removing and insalling the belt and idler pulleys. If removing the tensioner pulley, it is threaded in reverse so left is tight and right is loose.
05-30-16, 10:53 AM
2008 RX350 Belt Replacement
