Lock or Security System Problem
#1
Instructor
Thread Starter
Lock or Security System Problem
Replaced the driver's front door lock actuator (piggy back solution) last year and all has been well until this week. Wife said door locks were acting funny. Also, a couple times security alarm went off when she attempted to unlock car with her key fob. Security alarm also went off once when she inserted key in the ignition switch. I assumed the new actuator was failing considering one of the two actuators I bought was DOA. I asked her to use the manual key. All was well for a couple days. This morning she inserted the manual key in the ignition switch and the door locks locked and unlocked.
Maybe the new actuator isn't completely opening/closing the driver's door lock and satisfying the proximity switch(es). Would that explain the security alarm going off? Why would the act of inserting the manual key in the ignition switch lock/unlock the doors? Thanks.
Maybe the new actuator isn't completely opening/closing the driver's door lock and satisfying the proximity switch(es). Would that explain the security alarm going off? Why would the act of inserting the manual key in the ignition switch lock/unlock the doors? Thanks.
#2
Lexus Champion
Replaced the driver's front door lock actuator (piggy back solution) last year and all has been well until this week. Wife said door locks were acting funny. Also, a couple times security alarm went off when she attempted to unlock car with her key fob. Security alarm also went off once when she inserted key in the ignition switch. I assumed the new actuator was failing considering one of the two actuators I bought was DOA. I asked her to use the manual key. All was well for a couple days. This morning she inserted the manual key in the ignition switch and the door locks locked and unlocked.
Maybe the new actuator isn't completely opening/closing the driver's door lock and satisfying the proximity switch(es). Would that explain the security alarm going off? Why would the act of inserting the manual key in the ignition switch lock/unlock the doors? Thanks.
Maybe the new actuator isn't completely opening/closing the driver's door lock and satisfying the proximity switch(es). Would that explain the security alarm going off? Why would the act of inserting the manual key in the ignition switch lock/unlock the doors? Thanks.
Last edited by code58; 03-19-09 at 12:00 AM.
#3
Instructor
Thread Starter
Replaced the driver's front door lock actuator (piggy back solution) last year and all has been well until this week. Wife said door locks were acting funny. Also, a couple times security alarm went off when she attempted to unlock car with her key fob. Security alarm also went off once when she inserted key in the ignition switch. I assumed the new actuator was failing considering one of the two actuators I bought was DOA. I asked her to use the manual key. All was well for a couple days. This morning she inserted the manual key in the ignition switch and the door locks locked and unlocked.
Maybe the new actuator isn't completely opening/closing the driver's door lock and satisfying the proximity switch(es). Would that explain the security alarm going off? Why would the act of inserting the manual key in the ignition switch lock/unlock the doors? Thanks.
Maybe the new actuator isn't completely opening/closing the driver's door lock and satisfying the proximity switch(es). Would that explain the security alarm going off? Why would the act of inserting the manual key in the ignition switch lock/unlock the doors? Thanks.
#4
Lexus Champion
#5
Moderator
My post is a bit late as by now you have closed the door.
One thing to worry would be the failure of the piggy back actuator. [Here a mounting screw was the issue]. A few weeks back there was another post on failure to release the lock.
All I am trying to say is, take a harder look at the solution. Some times a simple/cheaper fix can be a major headache when it fails.
Salim
One thing to worry would be the failure of the piggy back actuator. [Here a mounting screw was the issue]. A few weeks back there was another post on failure to release the lock.
All I am trying to say is, take a harder look at the solution. Some times a simple/cheaper fix can be a major headache when it fails.
Salim
#6
Instructor
Thread Starter
My post is a bit late as by now you have closed the door.
One thing to worry would be the failure of the piggy back actuator. [Here a mounting screw was the issue]. A few weeks back there was another post on failure to release the lock.
All I am trying to say is, take a harder look at the solution. Some times a simple/cheaper fix can be a major headache when it fails.
Salim
One thing to worry would be the failure of the piggy back actuator. [Here a mounting screw was the issue]. A few weeks back there was another post on failure to release the lock.
All I am trying to say is, take a harder look at the solution. Some times a simple/cheaper fix can be a major headache when it fails.
Salim
#7
Lexus Champion
My post is a bit late as by now you have closed the door.
One thing to worry would be the failure of the piggy back actuator. [Here a mounting screw was the issue]. A few weeks back there was another post on failure to release the lock.
All I am trying to say is, take a harder look at the solution. Some times a simple/cheaper fix can be a major headache when it fails.
Salim
One thing to worry would be the failure of the piggy back actuator. [Here a mounting screw was the issue]. A few weeks back there was another post on failure to release the lock.
All I am trying to say is, take a harder look at the solution. Some times a simple/cheaper fix can be a major headache when it fails.
Salim
Have a great day!
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#8
Instructor
I just replaced mine at a local repair shop. The total bill was about $430. I can confirm that the dealer would have charged me 2 hours of labor at $105/hour and $287 for the part plus California sales tax on the part. I think I saved about $100 by going with a local mechanic but I, obviously, could have saved more if went with the Ebay solution. I just didn't have the time and the skills necessary to do the job myself.....
Judging by the number of posts regarding the door lock actuator I am assuming this is about the time when 2001 and 2000 models start to have these problems. I wonder what will come up next
Judging by the number of posts regarding the door lock actuator I am assuming this is about the time when 2001 and 2000 models start to have these problems. I wonder what will come up next
#10
Moderator
Salim- I respect your opinion but feel that a major percentage of those that visit this board benefit tremendously from the "piggyback solution". The cost to replace even 1 lock that has failed is no small amount at the dealer ($500.-$600.) Two were failing on my DIL's RX and a third starting to act up. Since I was footing all the costs for repairs of this plus many other mechanical challenges while my son and DIL were dealing with the extreme costs of a true medical crisis, I simply had to find another way to deal with it. Some working people may be able to afford these kind of costs and still eat, but it puts an undue hardship on many. I for one am grateful for the fix, though I had to figure it out on my own by necessity, before I found this forum. My gratitude is that others that aren't able to afford it have an option. I suspicion that those that can easily afford don't visit forums like this. The 2 instances that I am aware of have both been installation mistakes. All 4 of my DIL's still function flawlessly at about 3 years now. Thanks for being part of those that contribute to the solutions that people come to the forum seeking, Salim.
Have a great day!
Have a great day!
I am not poo pooing the piggy back solution. It seems a very cost effective and working/workable solution.
I was alluding to:
When things are engineered, there is some emphasis on "what happens in case of failure" [or at least I hope there is]. When it deals with egress, some thinking must be done. So if the electronic lock fails, the release lever must be capable of overriding it. I was trying to encourage people who the did the add on, to think about a slider option instead of a rigid connection. That would allow the rods to move when the add on malfunction (electronic and or mechanical).
Salim
#11
Lexus Champion
Sorry I did not respond earlier ...
I am not poo pooing the piggy back solution. It seems a very cost effective and working/workable solution.
I was alluding to:
When things are engineered, there is some emphasis on "what happens in case of failure" [or at least I hope there is]. When it deals with egress, some thinking must be done. So if the electronic lock fails, the release lever must be capable of overriding it. I was trying to encourage people who the did the add on, to think about a slider option instead of a rigid connection. That would allow the rods to move when the add on malfunction (electronic and or mechanical).
Salim
I am not poo pooing the piggy back solution. It seems a very cost effective and working/workable solution.
I was alluding to:
When things are engineered, there is some emphasis on "what happens in case of failure" [or at least I hope there is]. When it deals with egress, some thinking must be done. So if the electronic lock fails, the release lever must be capable of overriding it. I was trying to encourage people who the did the add on, to think about a slider option instead of a rigid connection. That would allow the rods to move when the add on malfunction (electronic and or mechanical).
Salim
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