Winter storage - need your input
#3
For only 2 months no need to do anything, other than charging your battery (I installed a pigtail, for ease of doing that). But I'd do it weekly, since this car is hard on batteries. And make sure to keep your tires at 36 psi (or higher, if unattended), so they don't develop a flat spot. Finally, fill up your tank, to avoid extra condensation. In high humidity areas it could be better to leave it almost empty due to ethanol absorbing moisture and getting saturated, leaving water at the bottom of the tank, with nasty consequences. But for just 2 months, no issues wherever you live. Good luck.
#5
Do not put a car cover on your car. It will likely do more harm than good and scratch your clear coat around the edges (If its the "universal" fit kind it will likely scratch other panels as well). Let the car get dirty in the garage and use a proper wash method in a few months when you are ready to drive it again. Ive left my RCF sitting for two weeks in my garage in mostly below freezing conditions and i had no issues starting her right up.
#6
Lead Lap
iTrader: (11)
Do not put a car cover on your car. It will likely do more harm than good and scratch your clear coat around the edges (If its the "universal" fit kind it will likely scratch other panels as well). Let the car get dirty in the garage and use a proper wash method in a few months when you are ready to drive it again. Ive left my RCF sitting for two weeks in my garage in mostly below freezing conditions and i had no issues starting her right up.
#7
The pursuit of F
Thread Starter
Thanks for the responses guys.
Takeaways:
Tire psi >36 to prevent flat spots
Car cover (in my case this is a must to help avoid scratches walking around the car as it's a bit tight)
Battery health
Q1: As for maintaining battery health/charge, would starting the car weekly and running it for a few minutes be ok as an alternative to the trickle charge? Any other benefits (fuel lines, engine, etc) or is this more harm than good?
Q2: I have nitrogen in my tires and psi is 35-36 depending on the tire. Can I just add 2-3 psi of air? Thanks!
Takeaways:
Tire psi >36 to prevent flat spots
Car cover (in my case this is a must to help avoid scratches walking around the car as it's a bit tight)
Battery health
Q1: As for maintaining battery health/charge, would starting the car weekly and running it for a few minutes be ok as an alternative to the trickle charge? Any other benefits (fuel lines, engine, etc) or is this more harm than good?
Q2: I have nitrogen in my tires and psi is 35-36 depending on the tire. Can I just add 2-3 psi of air? Thanks!
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#8
Lead Lap
iTrader: (11)
Thanks for the responses guys.
Takeaways:
Tire psi >36 to prevent flat spots
Car cover (in my case this is a must to help avoid scratches walking around the car as it's a bit tight)
Battery health
Q1: As for maintaining battery health/charge, would starting the car weekly and running it for a few minutes be ok as an alternative to the trickle charge? Any other benefits (fuel lines, engine, etc) or is this more harm than good?
Q2: I have nitrogen in my tires and psi is 35-36 depending on the tire. Can I just add 2-3 psi of air? Thanks!
Takeaways:
Tire psi >36 to prevent flat spots
Car cover (in my case this is a must to help avoid scratches walking around the car as it's a bit tight)
Battery health
Q1: As for maintaining battery health/charge, would starting the car weekly and running it for a few minutes be ok as an alternative to the trickle charge? Any other benefits (fuel lines, engine, etc) or is this more harm than good?
Q2: I have nitrogen in my tires and psi is 35-36 depending on the tire. Can I just add 2-3 psi of air? Thanks!
#11
Lexus Test Driver
Agreed. The cover looks nice -- not too tight while the material appears to be soft and so less likely to get marring due to putting it on or taking it off.
#12
NEVER do that man. If you're not going to drive at least 10 miles (15 in winter), never start the car to charge the battery, or anything else. First of all, you wouldn't charge your battery by just idling the engine for 10 minutes. And second of all, you'd never get the drivetrain hot enough to remove all condensation by idling even longer than that, especially in winter. That leftover moisture can turn into acid inside the engine, and rust lots of crap everywhere else. Your engine oil has additives to neutralize acid, but you can quickly deplete it with that practice. Bottom line is leave charging the battery for the smart battery chargers; that's why they were invented. I personally don't like to leave them connected, but a lot of people do. Good luck.
#13
Lead Lap
iTrader: (11)
NEVER do that man. If you're not going to drive at least 10 miles (15 in winter), never start the car to charge the battery, or anything else. First of all, you wouldn't charge your battery by just idling the engine for 10 minutes. And second of all, you'd never get the drivetrain hot enough to remove all condensation by idling even longer than that, especially in winter. That leftover moisture can turn into acid inside the engine, and rust lots of crap everywhere else. Your engine oil has additives to neutralize acid, but you can quickly deplete it with that practice. Bottom line is leave charging the battery for the smart battery chargers; that's why they were invented. I personally don't like to leave them connected, but a lot of people do. Good luck.
#14
The pursuit of F
Thread Starter
isfdude has a valid point since it's only for two months in an indoor garage.
However, I'll likely take the overly-cautious route ELP_JC suggests and not start the car since it's what I'm reading online from reputable car sources too though this is for longer term storage 4-6 months minimum.
I also read about adding a fuel stabilizer? What about anything to add in the engine oil which I believe is not freshly changed (it's at 4k miles)?
Thanks!
However, I'll likely take the overly-cautious route ELP_JC suggests and not start the car since it's what I'm reading online from reputable car sources too though this is for longer term storage 4-6 months minimum.
I also read about adding a fuel stabilizer? What about anything to add in the engine oil which I believe is not freshly changed (it's at 4k miles)?
Thanks!
#15
You could think of this type of storage just like everyone store's a boat (or for people that store cars). My recommendation would be to throw a bottle of Stabil in the gas tank and put it on a trickle charger - I use the battery tender jr on my boat and jeep and leave it plugged in - it manages the battery automatically - no need to monitor. You can use this method for two months or two years - though for extended storage in anywhere there is moisture I would probably also loosen the plugs and put a finger of grease on the threads.