GS430 SRT/ECU vs. SRT/S-AFC dyno #,s
03-14-11, 11:09 PM
#1
GS430 SRT/ECU vs. SRT/S-AFC dyno #,s
I did this write up awhile ago & lost it , well I just found it.
I’ve always wondered if much could be gained using the S-AFC II w/ the SRT intake. I don’t recall any one ever posting any dyno #s. I think someone used SAFC with a weapon-R intake before. I might be wrong.
I originally wanted add some ump to the power band of the 430 so I got the SRT intake w/ ECU. That was all I originally wanted. I picked up an S- AFC mostly as a gadget to monitor engine stuff. I wanted to dyno both but it would take a lot of dyno time to do intake changes and then get the S-AFC tuned.
I always wanted to know these answers.
1- What the stock ecu does & at what A/F ratio #,s
2- What changes does the SRT intake w/ ECU really do (rwhp and A/F ratio) compared to stock
3- How lean does the large SRT intake (3.5”) make the A/F ratio
4- How much better tuning can be attained using S-AFC instead of the SRT ecu to manage the A/F ratio w/ the larger SRT (3.5”) intake.
There are a lot of nay sayers saying that the SRT is a waste of money but from the searching that I’ve found it seems that they are talking from seat of the pants results. Every SRT/ECU w/ dyno #’s that I have found show significant gains in power (GS400/430). Of course since all cars are different, results gains vary. Look at the power gain not the peak HP # since it was done in 3rd gear or add 4-6 HP & 6-9tq to the 3rd gear #.
What I mean is look at power gains from base # not just at end result. Example one member put SRT ECU on & got rwhp 234.23 rwtq 250.84 but has no idea what his base #’s were. He could have pick up 2hp or 10hp who knows. You can’t always go off the general hp # for the GS as your base.
I found a shop that would tune my S-AFC and let me make as many changes and runs that I needed in an 1 1/12 hrs. I got all my tools together and did a few dry runs taking off the stock box set up, putting on SRT and plugging in the by-pass wire in the SRT ecu harness ( this is to remove the SRT ECU leaving on the intake) to save time on the dyno.
I’ve always wondered if much could be gained using the S-AFC II w/ the SRT intake. I don’t recall any one ever posting any dyno #s. I think someone used SAFC with a weapon-R intake before. I might be wrong.
I originally wanted add some ump to the power band of the 430 so I got the SRT intake w/ ECU. That was all I originally wanted. I picked up an S- AFC mostly as a gadget to monitor engine stuff. I wanted to dyno both but it would take a lot of dyno time to do intake changes and then get the S-AFC tuned.
I always wanted to know these answers.
1- What the stock ecu does & at what A/F ratio #,s
2- What changes does the SRT intake w/ ECU really do (rwhp and A/F ratio) compared to stock
3- How lean does the large SRT intake (3.5”) make the A/F ratio
4- How much better tuning can be attained using S-AFC instead of the SRT ecu to manage the A/F ratio w/ the larger SRT (3.5”) intake.
There are a lot of nay sayers saying that the SRT is a waste of money but from the searching that I’ve found it seems that they are talking from seat of the pants results. Every SRT/ECU w/ dyno #’s that I have found show significant gains in power (GS400/430). Of course since all cars are different, results gains vary. Look at the power gain not the peak HP # since it was done in 3rd gear or add 4-6 HP & 6-9tq to the 3rd gear #.
What I mean is look at power gains from base # not just at end result. Example one member put SRT ECU on & got rwhp 234.23 rwtq 250.84 but has no idea what his base #’s were. He could have pick up 2hp or 10hp who knows. You can’t always go off the general hp # for the GS as your base.
I found a shop that would tune my S-AFC and let me make as many changes and runs that I needed in an 1 1/12 hrs. I got all my tools together and did a few dry runs taking off the stock box set up, putting on SRT and plugging in the by-pass wire in the SRT ecu harness ( this is to remove the SRT ECU leaving on the intake) to save time on the dyno.
03-14-11, 11:11 PM
#2
The game plan
I wired the SRT ECU & Apexi S-AFC into the cars ECU. I made a bypass wire to stick into the SRT harness maf connection (since this is the only thing that the SRT’s ECU affects) so that I could unplug the SRT ECU box and run stock. I then set my SAFC to off or no effect. The car is set to run stock w/ no effect from either unit.
Dyno-1-4 stock
Dyno 5- Stock intake box removed, SRT intake installed, bypass wire removed from SRT harness & ECU plugged in.
Dyno 6-17- SRT ECU unplugged & S-FAC activated & tuned
My dyno session was not perfect I did not have all day to take my time and let everything cool down before each run But I did the best I could for the time that was given me.
Dyno Session 01 GS430 (Borla exhaust) some interesting results
I wanted it done in 4th gear (that is the 1:1 ratio gear) but the tuner was unable keep it there w/o the tranny wanting to kick down to 3rd when accelerating hard, From another dyno I did a year ago, 4th gear was about 6-8 rwhp more than 3rd gear. My Car is stock except for a Borla Exhaust (+3rwph +7TQ from previous dyno)
Hot day 89 degrees to start.( This was done at the end of last summer)
Dyno 1-2 trying to run 4th gear- tuner settled on 3rd gear.
Dyno 3- Stock intake and filter-89.44 degree ( filter dirty but not overly so. 15k miles @2 ½ yrs on filter) rwhp-225.3 twtq-241.3 a/f 13-12.5
Dyno 4- Brand new K&N drop in filter-90.12 degree. A/F slightly leaner. I did not plan dynoing this, it was an after thought to throw this in. and WOW Before everyone runs and get a K&N The big question is how much of the big jump was merely from putting in a cleaner filter?? I have seen many dyno’s where big gains (or getting back what was lost) have come from just putting in a clean filter and replacing old spark plugs. I wish I had a new stock filter to compare and know for sure but I didn’t.
I know K&N drop in are good but I don’t believe that good so I‘ll give it the benefit of doubt and say 50% was form the K&N and 50% from cleaner filter, unless someone has more info. on this. Rwhp 233.4 rwtq 256.8 a/f 13.5-13
Dyno 5-SRT/race ECU installed-89.87degree Look how lean the A/F went. Rwhp 245.95 rwtq 270.25 a/f 14-14.5
Dyno 17 (runs 6 to 16 tuner trying to get A/F back near 13) - SRT intake w/ S-AFC- 94.5 degree – Engine getting heat soaked. No improvement from SRT ECU handling the A/F. I believe the 4 1/2 degree increase had a major effect on the dyno #’s I tried to give it 5-10minutes to cool down but it did not drop fast enough.
Now that I have S-AFC tuned ( I kind of think it is tuned a little lean) the tuner says the A/F is where it should be. Rwhp 244.2 rwtq 269.2 a/f 13.5-13
I wired the SRT ECU & Apexi S-AFC into the cars ECU. I made a bypass wire to stick into the SRT harness maf connection (since this is the only thing that the SRT’s ECU affects) so that I could unplug the SRT ECU box and run stock. I then set my SAFC to off or no effect. The car is set to run stock w/ no effect from either unit.
Dyno-1-4 stock
Dyno 5- Stock intake box removed, SRT intake installed, bypass wire removed from SRT harness & ECU plugged in.
Dyno 6-17- SRT ECU unplugged & S-FAC activated & tuned
My dyno session was not perfect I did not have all day to take my time and let everything cool down before each run But I did the best I could for the time that was given me.
Dyno Session 01 GS430 (Borla exhaust) some interesting results
I wanted it done in 4th gear (that is the 1:1 ratio gear) but the tuner was unable keep it there w/o the tranny wanting to kick down to 3rd when accelerating hard, From another dyno I did a year ago, 4th gear was about 6-8 rwhp more than 3rd gear. My Car is stock except for a Borla Exhaust (+3rwph +7TQ from previous dyno)
Hot day 89 degrees to start.( This was done at the end of last summer)
Dyno 1-2 trying to run 4th gear- tuner settled on 3rd gear.
Dyno 3- Stock intake and filter-89.44 degree ( filter dirty but not overly so. 15k miles @2 ½ yrs on filter) rwhp-225.3 twtq-241.3 a/f 13-12.5
Dyno 4- Brand new K&N drop in filter-90.12 degree. A/F slightly leaner. I did not plan dynoing this, it was an after thought to throw this in. and WOW Before everyone runs and get a K&N The big question is how much of the big jump was merely from putting in a cleaner filter?? I have seen many dyno’s where big gains (or getting back what was lost) have come from just putting in a clean filter and replacing old spark plugs. I wish I had a new stock filter to compare and know for sure but I didn’t.
I know K&N drop in are good but I don’t believe that good so I‘ll give it the benefit of doubt and say 50% was form the K&N and 50% from cleaner filter, unless someone has more info. on this. Rwhp 233.4 rwtq 256.8 a/f 13.5-13
Dyno 5-SRT/race ECU installed-89.87degree Look how lean the A/F went. Rwhp 245.95 rwtq 270.25 a/f 14-14.5
Dyno 17 (runs 6 to 16 tuner trying to get A/F back near 13) - SRT intake w/ S-AFC- 94.5 degree – Engine getting heat soaked. No improvement from SRT ECU handling the A/F. I believe the 4 1/2 degree increase had a major effect on the dyno #’s I tried to give it 5-10minutes to cool down but it did not drop fast enough.
Now that I have S-AFC tuned ( I kind of think it is tuned a little lean) the tuner says the A/F is where it should be. Rwhp 244.2 rwtq 269.2 a/f 13.5-13
Last edited by GILLEXUS; 03-14-11 at 11:20 PM.
03-14-11, 11:39 PM
#3
Final S-AFC setting:
Just because the SRT intake is 27% larger than stock you can’t just put 27% across the board and call it good to go. It might be a good starting point.
This is just to show how much fuel had to be added and where. I know being at 5280’altitude has a bearing on how much fuel is needed.
( DO NOT USE THESE SETTINGS W/O PROPER TUNING FOR YOUR ENGINE. I WILL NOT BE RESPONSIBLE FOR DAMAGE TO YOUR ENGINE)
800 1400 1800 2200 2600 2800 3000 3800 4600 5200 6000 6800
Lo-+21 +23 +25 +25 +25 +26 +26 +27 +28 +28 +28 +28
HI- +30 +30 +37 +36 +40 +40 +42 +46 +46 +44 +40 +38
Just because the SRT intake is 27% larger than stock you can’t just put 27% across the board and call it good to go. It might be a good starting point.
This is just to show how much fuel had to be added and where. I know being at 5280’altitude has a bearing on how much fuel is needed.
( DO NOT USE THESE SETTINGS W/O PROPER TUNING FOR YOUR ENGINE. I WILL NOT BE RESPONSIBLE FOR DAMAGE TO YOUR ENGINE)
800 1400 1800 2200 2600 2800 3000 3800 4600 5200 6000 6800
Lo-+21 +23 +25 +25 +25 +26 +26 +27 +28 +28 +28 +28
HI- +30 +30 +37 +36 +40 +40 +42 +46 +46 +44 +40 +38
03-15-11, 05:35 AM
#6
Final S-AFC setting:
Just because the SRT intake is 27% larger than stock you can’t just put 27% across the board and call it good to go. It might be a good starting point.
This is just to show how much fuel had to be added and where. I know being at 5280’altitude has a bearing on how much fuel is needed.
( DO NOT USE THESE SETTINGS W/O PROPER TUNING FOR YOUR ENGINE. I WILL NOT BE RESPONSIBLE FOR DAMAGE TO YOUR ENGINE)
800 1400 1800 2200 2600 2800 3000 3800 4600 5200 6000 6800
Lo-+21 +23 +25 +25 +25 +26 +26 +27 +28 +28 +28 +28
HI- +30 +30 +37 +36 +40 +40 +42 +46 +46 +44 +40 +38
Just because the SRT intake is 27% larger than stock you can’t just put 27% across the board and call it good to go. It might be a good starting point.
This is just to show how much fuel had to be added and where. I know being at 5280’altitude has a bearing on how much fuel is needed.
( DO NOT USE THESE SETTINGS W/O PROPER TUNING FOR YOUR ENGINE. I WILL NOT BE RESPONSIBLE FOR DAMAGE TO YOUR ENGINE)
800 1400 1800 2200 2600 2800 3000 3800 4600 5200 6000 6800
Lo-+21 +23 +25 +25 +25 +26 +26 +27 +28 +28 +28 +28
HI- +30 +30 +37 +36 +40 +40 +42 +46 +46 +44 +40 +38
That's adding a lot of fuel...perhaps it IS because you are at such a high altitude. All my figures range from 0 to 10 where some are PLUS and some are NEGATIVE!
On a side note though...great research!!!
BTW your Rwhp 244.2 rwtq 269.2 a/f 13.5-13 at 94 degrees are good figures for I/E and Neo; well, good for your altitude and those high temperatures. You would most definitely add 20-25whp and 20-25wtq if you were in 30 degree temperatures; then you would be right were my 2/2/08 dyno was (or maybe even slightly higher), so your right in-line with things.
IIRC I was around the 13.2/13.3 A/F range...pretty lean I guess.
Last edited by Rock-a-Lex; 03-15-11 at 05:42 AM.
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