sakataj

iTrader: (182)

no way you read all that and didnt get your answer, i know you didnt cause i posted a pic AND the info about where it goes.....post # 158

sung35

I saw that pic, and knew that the out line (straight) and the return line (bent), but it does not show where the ends of those hoses go to. I guess that it does not matter which connector it connect to. Thank you anyway, Sakataj.

Bhubb18

Where it pops out, one fitting is angled, towards one side of the radiator, the other side is straight, and that goes to the close side of the radiator. IMO bypassing an aftermarket cooler is silly, though.

sung35

My thought exactly. Anyone new SRT should know Mo. He is a legit mechanic in MD. I did not know that when he installed my external transmission cooler he bypass the OEM.

Thanks for the input on where the line hoses should go. I am going with the route replacing the radiator.

MeenGrn02

I'm new to the 2GS3 club, I've been studying all the fuss about transmission coolers. I've seen some good threads, the heat sink really intrigues me. Mounting location is the problem, there is real- estate in front of the condenser, more passenger side, the problem is that our license plates hang down too far, in front of the lower grill. At speed, the license plate creates a buffer that redirects air to the sides and below it, however the gap between bottom of the license plate and the bottom of the lower grill is not really big enough for sufficient air flow to hit the heat sink. There is one location left, but it involves clever mounting, directly above, upside down using slotted angle iron. This car will be seeing many more miles, 143K (new to me and immaculate), in Texas heat. Here we have 85mph speed limits, stock engine and trans combo revs 3K @ 75mph, vast heat is created when holding consistent for 5 hours at time. I like the efficiency of heat sinks, but I don't want to be slowing the flow of fluid when raising the cooler above the bottom of the radiator, but then again a dual pass sink will create less resistance than a core style cooler, so loss of fluid pressure might be negligible. I also like the sinks because they are more robust than a finned cooler, so they should theoretically last longer. I will be pulling the strings on this project within the next month, so keep an eye out.

Bscovronsk

i'm looking for a work up or image of how to and where I can tie into my factory transmission sensor so I may install my gauge. Yes i'm a noob yes iv looked but I can't find anything outside of the internal wire harness please and help would be awesome

clubcaner

In my case, the worse was drilling into the metal beam. Even then, all I needed was a drill and self-tapping screw.

GSpearlwht

Hi guys.

would lucas transmission fix stuff be a good idea?

GSpearlwht

Kiddchaos2

I installed a Four Seasons 53008 transmission cooler today and wanted to share some numbers for anyone interested. It seems to be a reboxed Hayden 679, Hayden is stamped on it.

It is in line with the factory cooler, mounted on the passenger side of the A/C condenser.

During my morning commute we hit a max of 217F (stop and go) with cruising temps around 180-195, the fluid is fresh and pink, trans has 198k on it to my knowledge.
On the way home we hit a max of 170 and cruising between 150-160.

My commute consists of a bunch of country roads for the first half and then a transition to stop and go around 40mph.

I do have a P1755 code I need to deal with, but I'm not certain if that would effect trans fluid temp much.