Building a Turbo V8 Motor
#1
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Building a Turbo V8 Motor
Hey Gang,
My aging rings are giving up on me. I took my extra V8 motor to a peformance engine building shop. The engine builder have 40 years of experience. He built Carol Shelby race cars in the 60s. Anyway, he is very good and one of the best around. The best mean expensive. This is what I will have done on my V8 motor:
*Pistons: JE Forged Dish with 8.0:1 in mind
*Block: Hone, Groove
*Rods: Remain the same but R&R Rods and Align
*Crank: Cham oil holes, Micro Polish and Balance
*Valve: Marathon
*Head screws: ARP Head Studs
*Head: Increase Valve Spring strenght, mild porting & O-Ring
*Valve: Re-seat
*Gasket: SCE copper head gasket
He asked me how many PSI this engine will received. I told him 18 psi. Anyway, we have to wait and see in about 1 month. This setup should able to handle at least 600-650 rwhp. 11 second LS400 is possible.
My aging rings are giving up on me. I took my extra V8 motor to a peformance engine building shop. The engine builder have 40 years of experience. He built Carol Shelby race cars in the 60s. Anyway, he is very good and one of the best around. The best mean expensive. This is what I will have done on my V8 motor:
*Pistons: JE Forged Dish with 8.0:1 in mind
*Block: Hone, Groove
*Rods: Remain the same but R&R Rods and Align
*Crank: Cham oil holes, Micro Polish and Balance
*Valve: Marathon
*Head screws: ARP Head Studs
*Head: Increase Valve Spring strenght, mild porting & O-Ring
*Valve: Re-seat
*Gasket: SCE copper head gasket
He asked me how many PSI this engine will received. I told him 18 psi. Anyway, we have to wait and see in about 1 month. This setup should able to handle at least 600-650 rwhp. 11 second LS400 is possible.
#4
Sounds like a great start to an amazing project One question - why are you only thinking of 18 psi? With forged pistons, 8 to 1 compression, and a metal head gasket, you should be good for 24-26 psi, probably more! What cam timing and lift are you planning? (OK, I lied, *two* questions )
#5
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Why 18 psi? 18 psi should give my V8 around 532 rwhp (I get an average of 20 rwhp per psi plus 172 base hp. 18 x 20 +172 = 532 rwhp). That amount of HP is pushing the auto tranny to the max. With good traction, this amount of HP should push the 4000 lbs 4-door cruiser with a baby seat in the back into the 11s.
I will be using stock cam is the answer for question number 2.
I will be using stock cam is the answer for question number 2.
Last edited by Lextreme; 04-11-03 at 11:58 PM.
#6
Man that's some serious work... any ideas on pricing for the pistons and head gasket?
I was just going to add a thicker head gasket and clean the head up and hope for 15psi.
Have you looked into getting your rods shot peened?
I was just going to add a thicker head gasket and clean the head up and hope for 15psi.
Have you looked into getting your rods shot peened?
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Hi Fred,
Nice to see you again. The pistons will be custom made by JE with turbo application in mind. We will be using a standard height copper gasket with O-ring head and Groove Block. With ARP Head studs, things will stay in place. As for rods. He inspected and said the 1UZFE rods are very heavy duty. For the amount of HP i am aiming, the OE rods will be just fine.
The 40 years experience engine builder was impressed with the 6 bolt-main that 1UZFE has. 4 bolts from the bottom and two bolts on the side.
Fred, before you increase your boost. Check this out. http://lextreme.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=43
Nice to see you again. The pistons will be custom made by JE with turbo application in mind. We will be using a standard height copper gasket with O-ring head and Groove Block. With ARP Head studs, things will stay in place. As for rods. He inspected and said the 1UZFE rods are very heavy duty. For the amount of HP i am aiming, the OE rods will be just fine.
The 40 years experience engine builder was impressed with the 6 bolt-main that 1UZFE has. 4 bolts from the bottom and two bolts on the side.
Fred, before you increase your boost. Check this out. http://lextreme.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=43
Last edited by Lextreme; 04-12-03 at 10:16 AM.
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Bean,
I am being conservative. Alot of people like to throw out numbers, I like to report numbers that I have seen via dynos and tests. Its a daily driver with my babies in the back seats. I have not read anything about 900 rwhp with stock bottom. Please link me to the site and info. I would love to read more about it. I have read around 600 rwhp stock bottom, but not 900 rwhp. Secondly, we need to ask another question, how long did the 900 rwhp stock bottom last? That would be an eye opener.
For street use, its plenty of HP. With 532 rwhp this car can out run about 95% of cars on the street (freeway).
Bean, after your single turbo is done, how many rwhp are you expecting to get from 21 psi? With 21 psi in my V8 i would expect 592 rwhp. It would be interesting to compare pound per pound in a in-line 6 vs. V8.
I am being conservative. Alot of people like to throw out numbers, I like to report numbers that I have seen via dynos and tests. Its a daily driver with my babies in the back seats. I have not read anything about 900 rwhp with stock bottom. Please link me to the site and info. I would love to read more about it. I have read around 600 rwhp stock bottom, but not 900 rwhp. Secondly, we need to ask another question, how long did the 900 rwhp stock bottom last? That would be an eye opener.
For street use, its plenty of HP. With 532 rwhp this car can out run about 95% of cars on the street (freeway).
Bean, after your single turbo is done, how many rwhp are you expecting to get from 21 psi? With 21 psi in my V8 i would expect 592 rwhp. It would be interesting to compare pound per pound in a in-line 6 vs. V8.
Last edited by Lextreme; 04-12-03 at 11:05 AM.
#11
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Sounds great, good luck with it, a couple small things...
- I could be wrong on this one, but last time I checked (it was awhile ago) SCE did not offer an O-ring head gasket.
- I concur, the oe crank and rods will be fine with carefull prep work.
- The valve spring rate was very carefully calculated for this engine, why increase the spring strength if you intend to use the stock bumpsticks? Which leads me to the next one...
- I believe the oe cams will become a fairly major restriction on a 1UZ pushing that much atmosphere, why port the headS (and again, there are TWO), and build the bottom end and then have such a bottleneck in the valvetrain? The grinds IMO aren't very aggressive at all...
- Your stock automatic will be long gone and wasted well before 532 rwhp, plan on spending a few grand for that. The A340 and A341E are good for 400-450 rwhp in a MKIV, not too much over 400 rwhp in the heavier SC, and not even that when forced to push a two ton sedan. Have you done anything to firm up the shifts even with the current setup? Valve body or accumulator work? I hope you've at least got a good sized aux cooler, i.e. B&M 70264, and a fan for it would be a great idea too. I'd be surprised if the oe converter didn't balloon at the pwr level you plan to make.
- Not trying to be a sceptic, just a pragmatist, want to help keep you from making any possible errors. Again good luck, it's gonna take hella horses to get an LS to click off an 11....
- I could be wrong on this one, but last time I checked (it was awhile ago) SCE did not offer an O-ring head gasket.
- I concur, the oe crank and rods will be fine with carefull prep work.
- The valve spring rate was very carefully calculated for this engine, why increase the spring strength if you intend to use the stock bumpsticks? Which leads me to the next one...
- I believe the oe cams will become a fairly major restriction on a 1UZ pushing that much atmosphere, why port the headS (and again, there are TWO), and build the bottom end and then have such a bottleneck in the valvetrain? The grinds IMO aren't very aggressive at all...
- Your stock automatic will be long gone and wasted well before 532 rwhp, plan on spending a few grand for that. The A340 and A341E are good for 400-450 rwhp in a MKIV, not too much over 400 rwhp in the heavier SC, and not even that when forced to push a two ton sedan. Have you done anything to firm up the shifts even with the current setup? Valve body or accumulator work? I hope you've at least got a good sized aux cooler, i.e. B&M 70264, and a fan for it would be a great idea too. I'd be surprised if the oe converter didn't balloon at the pwr level you plan to make.
- Not trying to be a sceptic, just a pragmatist, want to help keep you from making any possible errors. Again good luck, it's gonna take hella horses to get an LS to click off an 11....
#12
hi dave
man that really sucks! i guess it was just time for factory rings go. copper head gaskets are good for racing, i would not use it in street car. once you o ring the heads then you are stuck with that setup. copper head gaskets will warp sometime. i would only o-ring the motor and put copper head gaskets if you have problem with factory head gaskets. check your heads gaskets and see if they are ok. if they are holding up fine then i would go with set of new factory head gaskets. most of times factory head gaskets work great with 8.5:1 pistons. long as car is tuned and doesn't detonate then you are good. detonation is going to kill your heads gakgets not so much of boost. if your car detonate then you'll have blown motor regardless of hardware. i also wouldn't even port or mess with the heads. i would just do the simple rebuild with je pistons. keep it simple and you'll have less problems i would just make sure engine builder knows lexus engines.
man that really sucks! i guess it was just time for factory rings go. copper head gaskets are good for racing, i would not use it in street car. once you o ring the heads then you are stuck with that setup. copper head gaskets will warp sometime. i would only o-ring the motor and put copper head gaskets if you have problem with factory head gaskets. check your heads gaskets and see if they are ok. if they are holding up fine then i would go with set of new factory head gaskets. most of times factory head gaskets work great with 8.5:1 pistons. long as car is tuned and doesn't detonate then you are good. detonation is going to kill your heads gakgets not so much of boost. if your car detonate then you'll have blown motor regardless of hardware. i also wouldn't even port or mess with the heads. i would just do the simple rebuild with je pistons. keep it simple and you'll have less problems i would just make sure engine builder knows lexus engines.
#13
Cams, & Tranny
Where can a person find a set of cams to put in a 1 UZFE? It's not as easy as to find stuff for 1 UZFE as it is for a mustang. Also, where can a person find a simple shift kit, merely to firm up shift in the valve body? Anybody have any ideas or locales that sell performance parts for V8 Lexus?
(Also, Lextreme - how many hours do you work? Seems like you have energy and money to do some cool projects. Perhaps I should go to Chiropractic school...)
(Also, Lextreme - how many hours do you work? Seems like you have energy and money to do some cool projects. Perhaps I should go to Chiropractic school...)
#14
Lextreme, you the man!!! I picked up a 1UZFE motor, tranny and rearend a couple of weeks ago to do a project with. I might bug ya with some questions. Sounds like you have the right guy doing the job for ya. Could you PM me sometime to let me know the estimate($) you received. Good luck and drive fast!!!
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I agree with Lex Luther and V8Hunter, this set up is over kill for the stock tranny and TC. My limiting factor is my Transmission and my turbos. My T3 turbos will max out around 600-625 rwhp and my tranny will give up way before that. The O-Ring heads with copper gasket is a great for insurance, but not neccessary. Therefore, I might not need it. The estimated quote i got from him was around $3,600, but things can change. However, the below will be the minimum.
*Pistons: JE Forged Dish with 8.0:1 in mind
*Block: Hone
*Rods: Remain the same but R&R Rods and Align
*Crank: Cham oil holes, Micro Polish and Balance
*Valve: Marathon
*Head screws: ARP Head Studs
*Valve: Re-seat
If the price is right i will do the originals:
*Pistons: JE Forged Dish with 8.0:1 in mind
*Block: Hone, Groove
*Rods: Remain the same but R&R Rods and Align
*Crank: Cham oil holes, Micro Polish and Balance
*Valve: Marathon
*Head screws: ARP Head Studs
*Head: Increase Valve Spring strenght, mild porting & O-Ring
*Valve: Re-seat
*Gasket: SCE copper head gasket
Frankaustin: If you want Cams for the 1UZ, it has to be custom made. JE Forged Dish Pistons will be avialable in my website very soon. I am trying to help out my fellow V8 members to get some of the custom internals so u dont have to do it.
*Pistons: JE Forged Dish with 8.0:1 in mind
*Block: Hone
*Rods: Remain the same but R&R Rods and Align
*Crank: Cham oil holes, Micro Polish and Balance
*Valve: Marathon
*Head screws: ARP Head Studs
*Valve: Re-seat
If the price is right i will do the originals:
*Pistons: JE Forged Dish with 8.0:1 in mind
*Block: Hone, Groove
*Rods: Remain the same but R&R Rods and Align
*Crank: Cham oil holes, Micro Polish and Balance
*Valve: Marathon
*Head screws: ARP Head Studs
*Head: Increase Valve Spring strenght, mild porting & O-Ring
*Valve: Re-seat
*Gasket: SCE copper head gasket
Frankaustin: If you want Cams for the 1UZ, it has to be custom made. JE Forged Dish Pistons will be avialable in my website very soon. I am trying to help out my fellow V8 members to get some of the custom internals so u dont have to do it.
Last edited by Lextreme; 04-14-03 at 11:34 AM.