So I've spent the last several days scouring the internet and this website and can't find a solid answer that seems to fit my situation. So any help or points in the right direction would be much appreciated.
The Issue: I had a slow leak in my a/c line and had to charge it every other week. about 2 weeks ago, i noticed my ac was not anywhere near cold, so i hooked up my gauge and checked the pressure and decided it could be topped off. After driving for about 10 minutes, My ac light started to blink and the air was hot. The compressor had kicked off. if i push the ac button, it stays on for about 5 seconds, then the compressor shuts off again and the light blinks. If I continue to push the button, the the air starts to get cold again, so I know im not low on freon. plus i had the hose repaired early this week (to be certain i wasnt low or still leaking) and its holding pressure with no visible leak. theoretically, there shouldnt be a pressure issue either (high or low side cut off switch, evap core, or expansion valve) if the compressor can still generate cold air, even after letting it sit this entire week. I have replaced the magnetic clutch relay, which is one of the common fixes and no dice, still blinks. I ran the diagnostic and i show 00 which is the system is functioning properly.
at this point, im lost. I have also read that it could be the ac revolution sensor, a blend door servo or motor, solar sensor wiring problem, to the ecu being bad, However, the people who have replaced this with success dont seem to have the same or similar symptoms. The clutch on the compressor is still strong and does not get too hot or slip; once again, the ac can produce cold air if i keep pushing the ac button. Also, it seems like everyone that has ran the diagnostic are getting multiple codes, like 43, 21, etc, but mine is not throwing any other than 00 or 21 (solar sensor) if i run the test at night. How can I have a 00 system normal diagnostic code, yet my ac is definitely not working? Anyone have any ideas or points on troubleshooting this? Has anyone bypassed the shutoff and just created an in cab switch for the compressor? Once again, any and all help is much appreciated!
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unfortunately, im new to the ac game (guess i took it for granted since i live in phoenix), so i dont have my own set of gauges, but i took it to a friends shop and the system is holding pressure and reading near full charge and the compressor is strong. From what ive read, its probably the clutch/shim spacing, the high or low pressure switch, or electrical... if its electrical, im effed. well, not effed, but i am far too fat and laxy and it is far too hot outside for me to diag electrical. What i need is a good way to test the clutch and pressure switches, or, for someone to tell me im stupid and point out the problem. Thank you for your advice/input!