Charcoal canister mounted in the trunk?!?
12-24-13, 08:12 AM
#1
Charcoal canister mounted in the trunk?!?
Someone mentioned on here that you can mount the factory charcol canister in the trunk sense the line goes of the tank all the way up to the canister in the engine bay. I have a few questions about doing this sense it seems like a good idea rather than just adding a hose and filter on that line when going NA-t or removing the evap system.
1. Does the canister run off using a vac source? Is it absolutely needed to make the canister function or can it be T'd off to a vent hose that's in the rear quarter panel?
2. There are three ports on the canister two on top, one with a check valve and one on the very bottom that I think is a breather? How would you run the lines? 1 from the tank going to the bigger port on top of the canister, the breather and vac source ports T'd off to the vent line in the trunk? And leave the check valve as it?
3. Will this actually function properly as a tank breather?
Let me know what you all think about this and if it will work. Doesn't seem like a bad idea for relocating the canister to the trunk.
1. Does the canister run off using a vac source? Is it absolutely needed to make the canister function or can it be T'd off to a vent hose that's in the rear quarter panel?
2. There are three ports on the canister two on top, one with a check valve and one on the very bottom that I think is a breather? How would you run the lines? 1 from the tank going to the bigger port on top of the canister, the breather and vac source ports T'd off to the vent line in the trunk? And leave the check valve as it?
3. Will this actually function properly as a tank breather?
Let me know what you all think about this and if it will work. Doesn't seem like a bad idea for relocating the canister to the trunk.
12-24-13, 09:28 AM
#2
I would not mount it in the trunk that would vent fumes into your trunk. mount it somewhere under the car or in a fender towards the rear if possible.
normally it has a small vac line on top that runs through the vsv and that pulls the fumes into the intake when the ecu wants.
you can extend this one vac line all the way to the back and it would work like factory.
The large on on top is vent that comes from the tank. you can find this closer to the tank and hook it up.
the small one on top goes to VSV then to intake manifold, extend the vac line to the new location.
the check valve on the side does not get hooked up its a safety something.
the one on the bottom is where it gets released when the intake is not pulling it in if it needs to, so you just put a line on the bottom and run it under the car where the fumes can escape easily.
you should not be teeing anything together still trying to figure out what you mean there are 3 lines that need to go to 3 separate places if you are not bypassing it. if you do not hook the vac line up right it will just keep venting improperly and you might as well just bypass it up front.
I have also heard of people using older smaller charcoal canisters from other toyota's although since we have one its probably easiest to relocate that but if space is a problem look into an older corolla/celica/pickup EFI charcoal canister.
normally it has a small vac line on top that runs through the vsv and that pulls the fumes into the intake when the ecu wants.
you can extend this one vac line all the way to the back and it would work like factory.
The large on on top is vent that comes from the tank. you can find this closer to the tank and hook it up.
the small one on top goes to VSV then to intake manifold, extend the vac line to the new location.
the check valve on the side does not get hooked up its a safety something.
the one on the bottom is where it gets released when the intake is not pulling it in if it needs to, so you just put a line on the bottom and run it under the car where the fumes can escape easily.
you should not be teeing anything together still trying to figure out what you mean there are 3 lines that need to go to 3 separate places if you are not bypassing it. if you do not hook the vac line up right it will just keep venting improperly and you might as well just bypass it up front.
I have also heard of people using older smaller charcoal canisters from other toyota's although since we have one its probably easiest to relocate that but if space is a problem look into an older corolla/celica/pickup EFI charcoal canister.
12-24-13, 10:27 AM
#3
I was thinking more in terms of the canister being the filter as you would be bypassing it completely with a carbon filter to the fender. I was thinking by using the canister it would help dissipate the fumes more than running a line from that tank line in the bay to the fender.
This is how I imagine it. The tank hard line goes to the original spot on top of the canister and the vac line than is vented out side to the rear quarter panel as you would with bypassing it to the fender with out the canister. In theory the canister would act as a inline filter for the tank breather. Than leave the check valve as is.
Hope that makes sense...
This is how I imagine it. The tank hard line goes to the original spot on top of the canister and the vac line than is vented out side to the rear quarter panel as you would with bypassing it to the fender with out the canister. In theory the canister would act as a inline filter for the tank breather. Than leave the check valve as is.
Hope that makes sense...
Last edited by 8052JZ; 12-24-13 at 10:33 AM.
12-24-13, 01:06 PM
#4
when bypassing it the vac line is never vented out the fender, the tank vent line gets hooked up to the dummy line going under the car and the vac line gets capped off.
what you are saying is leave the vac nipple on the canister open to the air so it can vent, and maybe that will work good enough but you don't have to relocate the large canister to achieve that and it would still bypass all the vapors.
If you are relocating it in that fashion all you need is one long vac line from the canister to the engine bay and it would actually work as intended and you wont loose fuel vapors or have any smells.
My car sits for periods at a time and I def noticed decreased gas mileage and I believe my fuel was literally evaporating away, plus the smells on a hot day were terrible. Since reconnecting it like stock gas mileage seems to be up so I opt for relocation when possible now.
what you are saying is leave the vac nipple on the canister open to the air so it can vent, and maybe that will work good enough but you don't have to relocate the large canister to achieve that and it would still bypass all the vapors.
If you are relocating it in that fashion all you need is one long vac line from the canister to the engine bay and it would actually work as intended and you wont loose fuel vapors or have any smells.
My car sits for periods at a time and I def noticed decreased gas mileage and I believe my fuel was literally evaporating away, plus the smells on a hot day were terrible. Since reconnecting it like stock gas mileage seems to be up so I opt for relocation when possible now.
12-24-13, 01:18 PM
#5
Ok I see what your saying. Reason for relocating it is because I have a catch can sitting in that spot and was wondering what to do with the tank vent and not worry about the gas smell all the time. Because for me I found it very annoying and a thought always trickles in the back of my mind that something is wrong or leaking but than again its just the tank vent.
So even with the vac line left open and not capped off, would you still have the gas smell seeping out of that port? I'm assuming it will sense that's where it gets recirculated back to the intake.
Also how would the effect be using the canister without the VSV solenoid. Sense Ive gone FFIM and removed all those solenoids, would the canister work the same with getting a constant vacuum supply when the motor is running?
So even with the vac line left open and not capped off, would you still have the gas smell seeping out of that port? I'm assuming it will sense that's where it gets recirculated back to the intake.
Also how would the effect be using the canister without the VSV solenoid. Sense Ive gone FFIM and removed all those solenoids, would the canister work the same with getting a constant vacuum supply when the motor is running?
Last edited by 8052JZ; 12-24-13 at 01:25 PM.
12-30-13, 09:14 AM
#6
If you left the vac line off only, yes you would probably get vapors out of there because even though you don't have the vacuum from manifold anymore as the pressure in the tank builds it would push some out on its own. and you don't want the vapor to just come out at the top of the can, that would be like filling your engine bay or wherever the can is at with slightly flammable gasses unless you run the line somewhere but I am not sure thats any better than connecting the vent line to the line under the fender and getting rid of it entirely.
If you don't have the vsv, you get full vacuum all the time on the crank case and it actually fights the fuel pump and your afr's will swing lean when enough vacuum builds in the tank. this is actually worse then venting it and dealing with the smells. you can try using a really small restricotor/check valve on the line to limit the amount of vac so its just enough to get the air out, so from canister to small check valve to intake. you don;t need the check valve but they tend to be very small inlet and outlets I have used one before.
still not the right way to do it but it could work, tank may still get too much vac it really depends.
have you considered re-installing the vsv for the evap canister? its just one connector and the vsv.
evap does not hurt performance at all, so there is no need to delete it or you get smells or inconsistent AFR's unless its vented.
I have the same problem, but I am going to find a better place for the catch can somehow and leave the canister stock, either that or get a smaller canister, and relocated it to passenger fender, that way its only lengthening everything a few feet and its out of the way. so much space even with the inter cooler piping there.
If you don't have the vsv, you get full vacuum all the time on the crank case and it actually fights the fuel pump and your afr's will swing lean when enough vacuum builds in the tank. this is actually worse then venting it and dealing with the smells. you can try using a really small restricotor/check valve on the line to limit the amount of vac so its just enough to get the air out, so from canister to small check valve to intake. you don;t need the check valve but they tend to be very small inlet and outlets I have used one before.
still not the right way to do it but it could work, tank may still get too much vac it really depends.
have you considered re-installing the vsv for the evap canister? its just one connector and the vsv.
evap does not hurt performance at all, so there is no need to delete it or you get smells or inconsistent AFR's unless its vented.
I have the same problem, but I am going to find a better place for the catch can somehow and leave the canister stock, either that or get a smaller canister, and relocated it to passenger fender, that way its only lengthening everything a few feet and its out of the way. so much space even with the inter cooler piping there.
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