New to forum! My SC...need some help!
06-20-13, 12:10 PM
#16
Rookie
Thread Starter
nice pickup. I can save you alot of future time and hassle by telling you to not go aem fic, and do the tt ecu mod and run a 2jzgte ecu.
the problem you are talking about with it randomly going lean and acting wierd will not be fixed by the fic without alot of workarounds, and even then thats alot of money to spend to still have issues. If you run a gte ecu you will get coilpacks, and you won't have those issus anymore, and you can get all of that for less than what you are about to do. The problem with the tunes on na-t's is actually the stock ecu, but when you use an aem FIC its a piggyback that still uses the stock ecu, which is always fighting everything.
The FIC has alot of extra features and with alot of time they could iron out some of those issues, but you still have the stock ecu which doesn't support coilpacks, and it still wont drive 100%, the stock ecu cannot handle the transition to boost it gets confused every time.
just looking out the only reason one would mess with it is if they are odb2 and had to keep the stock ecu for emissions, but on a 93 you can use anything so I would run the best and thats a 2jzgte ecu or a standalone, the stock ecu is garbage no matter what you pair it with.
believe it or not the HKS vpc + safc is known to work really well, just not on the stock GE ecu. if you had that on a 7mgte ecu which has boost fuel and timing maps, or even on a 2jzgte ecu with a mk4 chip, it would run very well.
the problem you are talking about with it randomly going lean and acting wierd will not be fixed by the fic without alot of workarounds, and even then thats alot of money to spend to still have issues. If you run a gte ecu you will get coilpacks, and you won't have those issus anymore, and you can get all of that for less than what you are about to do. The problem with the tunes on na-t's is actually the stock ecu, but when you use an aem FIC its a piggyback that still uses the stock ecu, which is always fighting everything.
The FIC has alot of extra features and with alot of time they could iron out some of those issues, but you still have the stock ecu which doesn't support coilpacks, and it still wont drive 100%, the stock ecu cannot handle the transition to boost it gets confused every time.
just looking out the only reason one would mess with it is if they are odb2 and had to keep the stock ecu for emissions, but on a 93 you can use anything so I would run the best and thats a 2jzgte ecu or a standalone, the stock ecu is garbage no matter what you pair it with.
believe it or not the HKS vpc + safc is known to work really well, just not on the stock GE ecu. if you had that on a 7mgte ecu which has boost fuel and timing maps, or even on a 2jzgte ecu with a mk4 chip, it would run very well.
And as far as installing the TT ECU, do I have to get a certain year and model of ECU? Like im assuming it would have to be a OBD1 (dont know which years exactly that is for the supra) and would it have to be a Automatic Trans TT ECU? What are my options? And how much are they? Also how hard is it to install? Obviously I already have the maf delete with map sensor and the egr delete...but what is the procedure to install this ecu? Is there any write up?
Again thanks ALOT!
06-20-13, 12:35 PM
#18
Rookie
Thread Starter
I just seen your write up Ali...the NA-T TT ECU mod honestly I wouldnt feel comfortable doing all the wiring my self...im thinking about asking ECS if they could wire it up for me?
06-20-13, 12:40 PM
#19
Thanks alot for your input Ali SC3 its been very helpful! I know ECS Performance is a very knowledgeable place with alot of experience but I trust your experience as well as you have gone thru the same mods with your SC. Their shop also has an IS300 with a turbo kit and they are currently doing a AEM FIC on it as well. So maybe after they do it I can run it by them and see how well its working on there IS300 and see what they recommend as far as the TT Ecu in comparison.
And as far as installing the TT ECU, do I have to get a certain year and model of ECU? Like im assuming it would have to be a OBD1 (dont know which years exactly that is for the supra) and would it have to be a Automatic Trans TT ECU? What are my options? And how much are they? Also how hard is it to install? Obviously I already have the maf delete with map sensor and the egr delete...but what is the procedure to install this ecu? Is there any write up?
Again thanks ALOT!
And as far as installing the TT ECU, do I have to get a certain year and model of ECU? Like im assuming it would have to be a OBD1 (dont know which years exactly that is for the supra) and would it have to be a Automatic Trans TT ECU? What are my options? And how much are they? Also how hard is it to install? Obviously I already have the maf delete with map sensor and the egr delete...but what is the procedure to install this ecu? Is there any write up?
Again thanks ALOT!
On the IS300 they are stuck with the aem FIC because of vvti (and odb2 if that matters), but more imporantly on those cars the ecu handles alot more than on odb1, including idle control because the whole system is a newer drive by wire system. when you go standalone on those cars it requires alot of changes, and most tuners wont know how to tune vvti properly, and in this specific case, its worth the trouble battling the stock ecu, but you have spent alot of money to intercept allt he signals and replace them for really no reason since you have an odb1, you might as well pick up an aem ems v1 for not much more and get full control over everything, you wont need the harness cause the v1 will just plug right in as well. tuning costs are the same.
with the gte ecu there are several options. most like the map sensor setup like you have now and that means you would be looking for a JDM non-vvti 2jzgte ecu. basically the most abundant source of these ecu;s come from the aristo, they are all auto, and can even work on a manual car so basically anyone can use it. if you are manual you could pick up a jdm supra non vvti 6 speed ecu (most expensive of the JDM ecu's). the aristo ecu's usually go for about ~$100, the map sensor ~$100, and a generic intake temp sensor another $20. vvti coilpacks are around the ~$150 range and then the injectors can vary.
you can see how you can pick up all these parts for about what a fic costs, and then you will have a factory reliable gte ecu with no piggyback needed just for it to work, and you will also enjoy full coil on plug ignition which the FIC does not offer, only the standalone v1.
The driveability between the 2 will be large as the piggyback ecu has to intercept everything, however the gte ecu just knows what to do, and it has the ability to learn on the fly.
no need to carry around a laptop, no need to depend on a tuner.
Just good 'ol fashioned Toyota goodness the way Mr. Toyoda himself intended.
the wiring looks bad at first, but 80% of it is just wiring up coilpacks which any shop should know how to do cause most na-t with standalones like the v1 go to coilpacks, the wiring is almost identical. the rest is just wiring up the map sensor and intake sensor, which someone has done with you HKS VPC already, but you will need to use the 2jz map sensor instead of the HKS one.
besides who does the wiring or which route you go, just wanted to let you know more or less the FIC is not common route to go with a non-vvti 2jzGE. A shop that deals alot with the vvti motors may be used to it, but the better route for you being non-vvti is to just get a standalone like the aem v1 or swap to a gte ecu. the FIC is really intended for cars that cannot go standalone where the stock ecu controls too much, but with the non-vvti this is not the case, and its more complicated and less beneficial to run the FIC than just getting a v1 which you can find used for around 1K. With the cost of the FIC and the harness (which the v1 does not need) you are not that far away in price and its worth every penny to go standalone if not gte ecu.
even the description for the FIC says its for the more advanced ecu's that cannot be removed easily from the car (vvti, imobilizer, odb2), about the only thing that doesn't work on a odb1 when you swap the factory ecu for a standalone is the check engine light, but it never coming on is not a bad thing at all. The v1 can control literally all of it, including vvti if your tuner is really good, however expect alot of tuning time for it to drive and start as reliably as the factory ecu, and tuning time = money but for those with large power goals or flex fuel the trade off is worth it.
Last edited by Ali SC3; 06-20-13 at 12:53 PM.
06-20-13, 01:40 PM
#20
Rookie
Thread Starter
No problem, feel free to ask questions I only want everyone's na-t to drive as well as mine does.
On the IS300 they are stuck with the aem FIC because of vvti (and odb2 if that matters), but more imporantly on those cars the ecu handles alot more than on odb1, including idle control because the whole system is a newer drive by wire system. when you go standalone on those cars it requires alot of changes, and most tuners wont know how to tune vvti properly, and in this specific case, its worth the trouble battling the stock ecu, but you have spent alot of money to intercept allt he signals and replace them for really no reason since you have an odb1, you might as well pick up an aem ems v1 for not much more and get full control over everything, you wont need the harness cause the v1 will just plug right in as well. tuning costs are the same.
with the gte ecu there are several options. most like the map sensor setup like you have now and that means you would be looking for a JDM non-vvti 2jzgte ecu. basically the most abundant source of these ecu;s come from the aristo, they are all auto, and can even work on a manual car so basically anyone can use it. if you are manual you could pick up a jdm supra non vvti 6 speed ecu (most expensive of the JDM ecu's). the aristo ecu's usually go for about ~$100, the map sensor ~$100, and a generic intake temp sensor another $20. vvti coilpacks are around the ~$150 range and then the injectors can vary.
you can see how you can pick up all these parts for about what a fic costs, and then you will have a factory reliable gte ecu with no piggyback needed just for it to work, and you will also enjoy full coil on plug ignition which the FIC does not offer, only the standalone v1.
The driveability between the 2 will be large as the piggyback ecu has to intercept everything, however the gte ecu just knows what to do, and it has the ability to learn on the fly.
no need to carry around a laptop, no need to depend on a tuner.
Just good 'ol fashioned Toyota goodness the way Mr. Toyoda himself intended.
the wiring looks bad at first, but 80% of it is just wiring up coilpacks which any shop should know how to do cause most na-t with standalones like the v1 go to coilpacks, the wiring is almost identical. the rest is just wiring up the map sensor and intake sensor, which someone has done with you HKS VPC already, but you will need to use the 2jz map sensor instead of the HKS one.
besides who does the wiring or which route you go, just wanted to let you know more or less the FIC is not common route to go with a non-vvti 2jzGE. A shop that deals alot with the vvti motors may be used to it, but the better route for you being non-vvti is to just get a standalone like the aem v1 or swap to a gte ecu. the FIC is really intended for cars that cannot go standalone where the stock ecu controls too much, but with the non-vvti this is not the case, and its more complicated and less beneficial to run the FIC than just getting a v1 which you can find used for around 1K. With the cost of the FIC and the harness (which the v1 does not need) you are not that far away in price and its worth every penny to go standalone if not gte ecu.
even the description for the FIC says its for the more advanced ecu's that cannot be removed easily from the car (vvti, imobilizer, odb2), about the only thing that doesn't work on a odb1 when you swap the factory ecu for a standalone is the check engine light, but it never coming on is not a bad thing at all. The v1 can control literally all of it, including vvti if your tuner is really good, however expect alot of tuning time for it to drive and start as reliably as the factory ecu, and tuning time = money but for those with large power goals or flex fuel the trade off is worth it.
On the IS300 they are stuck with the aem FIC because of vvti (and odb2 if that matters), but more imporantly on those cars the ecu handles alot more than on odb1, including idle control because the whole system is a newer drive by wire system. when you go standalone on those cars it requires alot of changes, and most tuners wont know how to tune vvti properly, and in this specific case, its worth the trouble battling the stock ecu, but you have spent alot of money to intercept allt he signals and replace them for really no reason since you have an odb1, you might as well pick up an aem ems v1 for not much more and get full control over everything, you wont need the harness cause the v1 will just plug right in as well. tuning costs are the same.
with the gte ecu there are several options. most like the map sensor setup like you have now and that means you would be looking for a JDM non-vvti 2jzgte ecu. basically the most abundant source of these ecu;s come from the aristo, they are all auto, and can even work on a manual car so basically anyone can use it. if you are manual you could pick up a jdm supra non vvti 6 speed ecu (most expensive of the JDM ecu's). the aristo ecu's usually go for about ~$100, the map sensor ~$100, and a generic intake temp sensor another $20. vvti coilpacks are around the ~$150 range and then the injectors can vary.
you can see how you can pick up all these parts for about what a fic costs, and then you will have a factory reliable gte ecu with no piggyback needed just for it to work, and you will also enjoy full coil on plug ignition which the FIC does not offer, only the standalone v1.
The driveability between the 2 will be large as the piggyback ecu has to intercept everything, however the gte ecu just knows what to do, and it has the ability to learn on the fly.
no need to carry around a laptop, no need to depend on a tuner.
Just good 'ol fashioned Toyota goodness the way Mr. Toyoda himself intended.
the wiring looks bad at first, but 80% of it is just wiring up coilpacks which any shop should know how to do cause most na-t with standalones like the v1 go to coilpacks, the wiring is almost identical. the rest is just wiring up the map sensor and intake sensor, which someone has done with you HKS VPC already, but you will need to use the 2jz map sensor instead of the HKS one.
besides who does the wiring or which route you go, just wanted to let you know more or less the FIC is not common route to go with a non-vvti 2jzGE. A shop that deals alot with the vvti motors may be used to it, but the better route for you being non-vvti is to just get a standalone like the aem v1 or swap to a gte ecu. the FIC is really intended for cars that cannot go standalone where the stock ecu controls too much, but with the non-vvti this is not the case, and its more complicated and less beneficial to run the FIC than just getting a v1 which you can find used for around 1K. With the cost of the FIC and the harness (which the v1 does not need) you are not that far away in price and its worth every penny to go standalone if not gte ecu.
even the description for the FIC says its for the more advanced ecu's that cannot be removed easily from the car (vvti, imobilizer, odb2), about the only thing that doesn't work on a odb1 when you swap the factory ecu for a standalone is the check engine light, but it never coming on is not a bad thing at all. The v1 can control literally all of it, including vvti if your tuner is really good, however expect alot of tuning time for it to drive and start as reliably as the factory ecu, and tuning time = money but for those with large power goals or flex fuel the trade off is worth it.
06-20-13, 07:33 PM
#21
Rookie
Thread Starter
Ali is this the right coilpack set? http://www.ebay.com/itm/OEM-Toyota-Ignition-Coil-Part-90919-02205-Supra-2JZGTE/321044787435?rt=nc&_trksid=p2047675.m1851&_trkparms=aid%3D222002%26algo%3DSIC.FIT%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D16099%26meid%3D8523119440952665082%26pid%3D100005%26prg%3D7683%26rk%3D3%26sd%3D271122441604%26
I work at a Honda dealership in parts and I get discounts at Toyota/Lexus and aftermarket parts. What coils do I need to clear the intake manifold. What other parts from Toyota/Lexus should I get? GTE Map sensor? Im about to buy this ECU tomorrow and look for coils and everything I need. Im just gonna tell ECS that I want to go this route and if they dont wanna do it then im gonna find somewhere else that will do it.
I work at a Honda dealership in parts and I get discounts at Toyota/Lexus and aftermarket parts. What coils do I need to clear the intake manifold. What other parts from Toyota/Lexus should I get? GTE Map sensor? Im about to buy this ECU tomorrow and look for coils and everything I need. Im just gonna tell ECS that I want to go this route and if they dont wanna do it then im gonna find somewhere else that will do it.
06-21-13, 09:01 AM
#22
Ok you make a very good point. I almost wanna try to tackle it myself but I really dont have alot of time to be messing around with this kinda stuff and I dont really feel too confident about jumping into a project like this. Now that being said if I did ask this shop to do it for me would you guess that it would be more expensive than $1500 all said and done? Also my car already has 660cc injectors and the vpc/safc II setup...is there any use for that with the Aristo TT ecu setup? How does this one sound for 150 bucks? JDM Aristo ECU for 2jz Gtte Non vvti Turbo ECU Only 93 95 | eBay
you aren't supposed to post ebay links only the pictures, please remove your link from your post.
I don't know how much labor will be to do it, but the parts are only like $4-500 plus injectors but you already have those. Your 660's should be fine for the gte ecu, but you will need the safc to pull a little fuel to make things run close to stock. so ultimately you will end up with the gte ecu plus safc, and you can take the HKS out of the loop completely it is not needed. you will need to get a 2jz map sensor.
Ali is this the right coilpack set? Toyota Ignition Coil Part 90919 02205 Supra 2JZGTE | eBay
I work at a Honda dealership in parts and I get discounts at Toyota/Lexus and aftermarket parts. What coils do I need to clear the intake manifold. What other parts from Toyota/Lexus should I get? GTE Map sensor? Im about to buy this ECU tomorrow and look for coils and everything I need. Im just gonna tell ECS that I want to go this route and if they dont wanna do it then im gonna find somewhere else that will do it.
I work at a Honda dealership in parts and I get discounts at Toyota/Lexus and aftermarket parts. What coils do I need to clear the intake manifold. What other parts from Toyota/Lexus should I get? GTE Map sensor? Im about to buy this ECU tomorrow and look for coils and everything I need. Im just gonna tell ECS that I want to go this route and if they dont wanna do it then im gonna find somewhere else that will do it.
those are not the right coils unless you have a front facing intake and want to use the older gte coils, cause they don't fit under the stock intake and they aren't as new or good as the vvti coils. the coils you want are from a vvti car most likely to find them from a IS300 or a later model GS300. All vvti 2jzgte's and 1jzgte's got them as well but you probably won't be finding a set from those, and there will be 3 of them, with 3 plug wires that go to the other cylinders. the look like this:
If you can tolerate a little bit of wiring down by the ecu, its really only running 2 new wires to your ignitor, then the 4 wire harness from the ignitor to the coils, and the map sensor and IAT which is normally easy but you will have to uninstall your current setup and may be a bit confusing I would probably remove the afc/vpc combo, wire back in the safc with the 2jz map sensor, and thats more or less the wiring. hardest part is tracking down spare ecu pins off someone extra harness.
I would think if they can make an IS300 drive well on an FIC, they should be able to handle some wiring, although they are probably not used to installing coils from scratch but with the diagrams you would have to be trying to mess it up.
If you can get the mk3 coil harness from driftmotion if they still offer that, it will save you alot of time on the coil harness part from ignitor to coils, it turns making that harness into a simple extend the wires job
one can make their own from 3 coil connectors and 4 long wires, but its nice to get some fresh clips the old ones can get brittle.
http://store.driftmotion.com/static/...ackharness.php
Last edited by Ali SC3; 06-21-13 at 09:21 AM.
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