Camshaft Pulley Removal SC400
12-09-12, 09:21 PM
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Camshaft Pulley Removal SC400
I'm in the process of doing the timing belt job and attempting to replace the crank and cam seals. I used an electric impact gun to remove the crank pulley. Now I'm trying to remove the camshaft pulleys and I just figured I would hit each one with the impact gun real quick and that would be it. Is there a trick to it or are the bolts a different thread. I put the impact gun in the reverse position (lefty loosey), but I didn't have any luck removing the bolts.
Am I doing this correctly? Should I just keep trying with the impact gun and eventually they'll come loose. Just seemed a little strange I didn't have any problems with the crank bolt. It's a 94 SC400.
Am I doing this correctly? Should I just keep trying with the impact gun and eventually they'll come loose. Just seemed a little strange I didn't have any problems with the crank bolt. It's a 94 SC400.
12-26-12, 10:45 PM
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I made another attempt at removing the camshaft pulley bolts. I made sure the pulley didn't move and i used an electric impact wrench that has 300 ft lbs and I didn't have any luck.
Has anyone removed these pulleys on their sc400 or ls400 to replace their camshaft seals? Were the bolts on really tight and difficult to remove.
I have to get these off in order to replace the cam seals. It's vital...
Has anyone removed these pulleys on their sc400 or ls400 to replace their camshaft seals? Were the bolts on really tight and difficult to remove.
I have to get these off in order to replace the cam seals. It's vital...
12-27-12, 02:08 PM
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1JZ Single SC400
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I would not use the impact again. Dont take the chance of breaking the head off the bolt. If your gun is rated at 300, doesnt mean that it will put that much into the bolt to loosen it. It is what the supplied air volume to the gun, is what the gun will do. Most air compressors found in garages are around 125psi and go up from there. I would put on the correct socket and find the longest ratchet without the use of extension and place a pry bar over the ratchet and see if it will loosen that way. If the cam starts to move, place an open end wrench or monkey wrench over the cam while someone else pulls counterclock wise on the cam bolt. Also spray liquid wrench, WD40, or Pb Blaster to help assist. GL . Let us know.
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12-29-12, 09:23 PM
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ok. I will try doing it by hand next time. I have a 6 foot pipe I can put over top the socket wrench to give me extra torque. And I'll just use a pry bar to wedge into the cam pulley to keep it from moving. I wish I had that cam pulley holding tool to keep the pulley from rotating. And I'll spray something on it as well. I'm still interested to hear from someone who has completed this task and if they had a rough time with it as well. Thank you very much for your input. I will let you guys know what happens with the next attempt.
12-30-12, 07:10 AM
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ok. I will try doing it by hand next time. I have a 6 foot pipe I can put over top the socket wrench to give me extra torque. And I'll just use a pry bar to wedge into the cam pulley to keep it from moving. I wish I had that cam pulley holding tool to keep the pulley from rotating. And I'll spray something on it as well. I'm still interested to hear from someone who has completed this task and if they had a rough time with it as well. Thank you very much for your input. I will let you guys know what happens with the next attempt.
01-14-13, 07:59 AM
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Nope, luckily I didn't snap the cam bolts, that would have been very bad. Finally got my friend to come over to help me out. He kept the pulley from turning and I used my 6 foot pipe on the end of 1/2 socket wrench. They both broke loose pretty easlily once the pulley was locked into place. It was difficult to keep the pulley from turning with a pry bar because there isn't really any good spots on the engine to pry against. If I would have had the sst (camshaft pulley holding tool) I probably wouldn't have had any problems getting those bolts out.
The rubber on the old cam seals was as hard as a rock. Which is probably why my rear main seal is also leaking. It'll be really nice now not to have any oil leaks atleast on the front of the engine. I spent alot of time cleaning all the oil and crud off the engine and everything else.
Should I use the blue or red locktite on the cam bolts?
The rubber on the old cam seals was as hard as a rock. Which is probably why my rear main seal is also leaking. It'll be really nice now not to have any oil leaks atleast on the front of the engine. I spent alot of time cleaning all the oil and crud off the engine and everything else.
Should I use the blue or red locktite on the cam bolts?
Last edited by Lexus082; 01-14-13 at 08:06 AM.
02-06-14, 10:14 AM
#12
I'd also like to know this - Blue or Red Loctite?
I'm assuming we should use BLUE as that's intended to be workable with hand-tools after the fact.... where RED requires heat and mechanical / pneumatic tools to break free (or at least, is supposed to)
I'm assuming we should use BLUE as that's intended to be workable with hand-tools after the fact.... where RED requires heat and mechanical / pneumatic tools to break free (or at least, is supposed to)
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