NA-T Ignition Break-up at 4K
#1
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NA-T Ignition Break-up at 4K
Here's the issue, I put the DLI off my NA-T up for sale since im swapping to a coil on plug setup. I was assured by a friend that it would not affect my tune in any way (running AEM v1). Well I took the car out today, and when trying to come into boost, the car breaks up horribly at 4k rpm's.
Another friend of mine compared my log from the dyno 2 weeks ago to his NA-T file. He could not see any differences in the ignition maps of the two files.
Is there a certain setting that might need to be changed? or something else that might be overlooked?
Thanks guys
Another friend of mine compared my log from the dyno 2 weeks ago to his NA-T file. He could not see any differences in the ignition maps of the two files.
Is there a certain setting that might need to be changed? or something else that might be overlooked?
Thanks guys
#4
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so your saying this happened right after you installed the vvti coils and 7m cps.
if so you gotta remember to correct your cal file for ignition phasing for coil 1 needs to be 21.53 not 22, and you gotta resync your timing. it will probably be off. you should also go under advanced cam/crank pickups and see if you are getting any timing errors while running or revving. if so there is something wrong with how the CPS is set up, if so double check your wiring.
if so you gotta remember to correct your cal file for ignition phasing for coil 1 needs to be 21.53 not 22, and you gotta resync your timing. it will probably be off. you should also go under advanced cam/crank pickups and see if you are getting any timing errors while running or revving. if so there is something wrong with how the CPS is set up, if so double check your wiring.
#5
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actually havent done the vvti coil swap, im just back on stock ignition for another week or so till im done with my other engine harness.
a friend of mine did mention syncing the timing though.
a friend of mine did mention syncing the timing though.
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without the dli you will break up, but it depend on how much psi you are running and how much you gap the plugs.
You don't need DLI with VVTi and ignitor they are setup for wasted spark , just like the AEM V1.
i would just gap the plugs down a little till you install the vvti coils.
You don't need DLI with VVTi and ignitor they are setup for wasted spark , just like the AEM V1.
i would just gap the plugs down a little till you install the vvti coils.
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#8
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without the dli you will break up, but it depend on how much psi you are running and how much you gap the plugs.
You don't need DLI with VVTi and ignitor they are setup for wasted spark , just like the AEM V1.
i would just gap the plugs down a little till you install the vvti coils.
You don't need DLI with VVTi and ignitor they are setup for wasted spark , just like the AEM V1.
i would just gap the plugs down a little till you install the vvti coils.
You shouldnt need a dli at 11 psi, the stock ignition system can go much past that . Keep The iridiums, you will eat through coppers faster. Just lower the gap down to around .026. Once you install the VVti coils you can run the stock gap.
#11
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what boost and ignition system? if you are on the stock ignition system then i would run a tighter gap like .026 should get you good boost, .032 is too much gap for one coil pushing 6 cylinders through a distributor, I used to get breakup also till I pushed the gap down and the car pulled strong after. I would go with the Iridium's, the coppers are a pain unless you love changing plugs which is not fun with the stock manifold. both will perform similarly though.
#13
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.020 sounds a little extreme. If you are still missing at .026 then i would try .024, and if that doesn't cure it I would start looking at AFR's and timing as well as check/replace the cap and rotor with OEM toyota parts.
intake and EGT temps seem to run higher on the n/a, I blame the stock intake manifold.
intake and EGT temps seem to run higher on the n/a, I blame the stock intake manifold.
#14
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All my tuneup **** is done, replaced all the parts when i did my NA-t It was running great til all of a sudden it wasnt... makes me think its electrical or something... maybe my BOV too. I never changed timing, but i may look at it to see where its at. I havent had anytime to look at my car, so ive just been dealing with it.
#15
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when i was running 9 psi with the safc, i would have to reset the ecu like every 2 weeks. It would start to miss and sometimes detonate in boost if I went too long without a reset. sometimes I could tell from it giving me a really lean idle, like 15.5-16.0 AFR. I was running blowthrough so maybe thats why I kept freaking out the ecu, not sure but I know it is a common problem.
maybe give that a try disconnect the negative bat terminal for 5 minutes and see how it runs. Mine would run perfect again after every reset, and sometimes it would stay good for several weeks, sometimes only a week, but always would start to suck again. the safc saves its tune automatically is the only break you get in the whole reset situation. the better your safc is dialed in, the less the ecu will tend to freak out which means you can go longer between resets. good luck.
Edit** you should run a GTE ecu
maybe give that a try disconnect the negative bat terminal for 5 minutes and see how it runs. Mine would run perfect again after every reset, and sometimes it would stay good for several weeks, sometimes only a week, but always would start to suck again. the safc saves its tune automatically is the only break you get in the whole reset situation. the better your safc is dialed in, the less the ecu will tend to freak out which means you can go longer between resets. good luck.
Edit** you should run a GTE ecu
Last edited by Ali SC3; 06-14-11 at 02:53 PM.