Oil filter sandwich adapters/oil cooler adapters??
#1
Oil filter sandwich adapters/oil cooler adapters??
I want some of your opinions if you had use these products before. I ordered a Oil COOLER sandwhich adapter thinking its the same as the oil filter sandwich adapter for my swap. I had it installed, used one of the ports on the adapter for my twins. Got the car running finally but now it KNOCKS and Im thinking low oil pressure. My mistake was not installing a oil pressure gauge, wont make that mistake again.
Do these two have the same function? Can I use the Oil cooler adapter to feed my turbos? I bought my adapter-bottom link, dont know why I got the expensive one but it was the wrong one. I intenionally needed the $29.
http://www.glowshiftdirect.com/Oil-F...-Adapters.aspx
Do these two have the same function? Can I use the Oil cooler adapter to feed my turbos? I bought my adapter-bottom link, dont know why I got the expensive one but it was the wrong one. I intenionally needed the $29.
http://www.glowshiftdirect.com/Oil-F...-Adapters.aspx
#4
Lexus Test Driver
iTrader: (5)
Please remove the Fram oil filter.
That small oil line does look very restrictive.
From what I have read people that go with the sandwich plate say the stock water-to-oil cooler is restrictive. Therefore they remove it by either placing the sandwich plate straight on the block or installing a 2JZ-GE oil filter bracket.
That small oil line does look very restrictive.
From what I have read people that go with the sandwich plate say the stock water-to-oil cooler is restrictive. Therefore they remove it by either placing the sandwich plate straight on the block or installing a 2JZ-GE oil filter bracket.
#5
Lexus Champion
iTrader: (10)
why not just use an is300 union bolt as a source for the oil feed.
thats what i use for mine, its pretty much fail proof.
http://www.mkiv.com/techarticles/oil...mod/index.html
thats what i use for mine, its pretty much fail proof.
http://www.mkiv.com/techarticles/oil...mod/index.html
#6
why not just use an is300 union bolt as a source for the oil feed.
thats what i use for mine, its pretty much fail proof.
http://www.mkiv.com/techarticles/oil...mod/index.html
thats what i use for mine, its pretty much fail proof.
http://www.mkiv.com/techarticles/oil...mod/index.html
I was thinking about this but some people say dont do it. So I went with the sandwich plate adapter.
#7
Lexus Champion
iTrader: (10)
Better than a sandwhich plate and its an oem toyota part. Did they say why not to do it?
You are gonna have to decide yourself on this one. I have heard the argument that the oil is pre filter from the union bolt but i could care less it all gets filtered and everything gets oil.
Quickgs had an idea of swapping the oil pressure sensor onto the union bolt and using the old spot for the feed but i haven't tried it yet. That's another option as well.
You are gonna have to decide yourself on this one. I have heard the argument that the oil is pre filter from the union bolt but i could care less it all gets filtered and everything gets oil.
Quickgs had an idea of swapping the oil pressure sensor onto the union bolt and using the old spot for the feed but i haven't tried it yet. That's another option as well.
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#8
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Join Date: May 2008
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the sandwich adapter will be fine. the filter is about the biggest you can fit in there with an adapter attached.
if you are scared of oil coking up, put an oil cooler with a $20 120mm fan attached with a relay connected to the turbo timer.
if you are scared of oil coking up, put an oil cooler with a $20 120mm fan attached with a relay connected to the turbo timer.
#9
Lead Lap
iTrader: (2)
I went back and re-read your build thread, how far down did you take the long block you used ? Did you hear it run before it was taken out of the other car ? Is this the first time you have tried to run the engine ? Has it knocked from your initial startup ?
If you can't tell, I'm wondering if you didn't buy a motor that had a spun rod bearing.
If you can't tell, I'm wondering if you didn't buy a motor that had a spun rod bearing.
#10
I went back and re-read your build thread, how far down did you take the long block you used ? Did you hear it run before it was taken out of the other car ? Is this the first time you have tried to run the engine ? Has it knocked from your initial startup ?
If you can't tell, I'm wondering if you didn't buy a motor that had a spun rod bearing.
If you can't tell, I'm wondering if you didn't buy a motor that had a spun rod bearing.
When we initially started it, it didnt knock. I had a problem getting it started for 2 weeks, had a bad ecu. We got it started twice, then my front main seal started to leak. It was running for about 20-30seconds, no signs of knocking. I had to shut it off cause of the leaking front seal.
After replacing the main seal it fired up fine, no knock. After a minute and a half in it stalled. I started it up again, this time I would give it some gas so it wouldnt stall then the knock started.
My buddy told me to let it run so it could get warm and to see if it would stop knocking. I let it run for about 20 mins.
#12
I pulled the motor out on Mon. Im gonna have to tear it apart to see if the internals got damage. Im just wondering can the oil cooler sandwich plate be my problem for low oil pressure.
I should of ran some tests before I pulled the motor(oil pressure/compression tests) but hearing that KNOCK, it sounded like it had to come out for further inspection.
#14
I ran it the way you see it. Whats wrong with it?
I initially was going to run a Tee off the factory oil sending unit. That Tee that you see that is capped off wont fit in that tight spot, it kept hitting the block. Thats why I had to use the alternative, oil sandwich adapter.