Performance & Maintenance Engine, forced induction, intakes, exhausts, torque converters, transmissions, etc.

Rear main seal leak fixed for $6 vs $2300

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
Old 05-25-11, 03:09 PM
  #46  
tenspeed
Lead Lap
iTrader: (1)
 
tenspeed's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2010
Location: Honeoye, NY
Posts: 426
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default

Originally Posted by PanicUnit
So in conclusion, the incident was totally unrelated to that oil additive I used. In fact, it's been 8-9 months since I put that stuff in and I still don't smell burning oil or see any new driveway spots.
The Barrs Leak seal repair product makes the rubber in the seal swell. That's what is reducing the leaking. The seal with wear some more and it will start leaking again. There's a similar product for the seals in motorcycle front forks - probably the same stuff with a different price tag.

I don't know how long or how many miles. I don't disagree with using a additive in your case. It bought you some time. Another thing you can do to reduce oil leakage is to switch to a higher viscosity oil.
Old 05-25-11, 05:58 PM
  #47  
mr/griffin
Lead Lap
 
mr/griffin's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2008
Location: tennesee
Posts: 470
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default

Originally Posted by PanicUnit
Yeah, some rlly hilarious replies near the start.
The mechanic said it was leaking in at least one other place too, and either he couldn't tell or it didn't matter in comparison to the RMS leak. And the bottle's fine print basically says it fixes most oil leaks, but specifically formulated for the RMS.

From the actual advice and people not accusing me of trolling*, sounds like the thing to do is keep checking the oil, especially if i smell it burning all the time again, and wait until I need a trans swap/rebuild before getting the RMS replaced. The other leak is hopefully something easy like a valve cover gasket, but thats wishful thinking cuz i think the mechanic said it was something lower down.

*Whats with all the trolling s***? did this place recently get hacked & owned or something, or are internet forums just finally at the point now where nobody can ever be taken seriously anywhere, ever again?
where you located? for 2000 you could by a spare ge replace the seal on it all the gaskets and be walking pretty! witch toyota dealership you go to in tn?

its your freinds car rite?
Old 05-30-11, 10:03 AM
  #48  
PanicUnit
Driver School Candidate
Thread Starter
 
PanicUnit's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2010
Location: TN
Posts: 18
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default

i've never even bothered with a toyota dealer... my last cars before I bought the SC in '07 were acuras, and the honda/acura dealers overcharged horribly for parts, figured all dealers were pretty much the same

I actually use a well-known specialty shop in the north end of murfreesboro, just off US 41S, and been happy with them so far. I dont know if they are overcharging or not compared to a dealer, but I know I can trust them not to f'k with me
Old 05-30-11, 10:09 AM
  #49  
PanicUnit
Driver School Candidate
Thread Starter
 
PanicUnit's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2010
Location: TN
Posts: 18
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default

they even replaced my pass window regulator/motor with my ebay-sourced salvage part, which I tried to do myself thinking it would be easy as hell after reading the threads here on that repair. well after 5hours of work, 3 of em spent trying to get all the goddam slots and boltholes to line-up to attach the new regulator... i couldn't even get the motor to work when plugging all the switches back in - but the part was good... how embarrassing, and endlessly frustrating... but at least now I can use both windows again after an $80 part, 5hrs of my own wasted time/sweat/blood, and $150 shop labor... not bad after the shop told me my only practical choice was to order a new regulator/motor combo for like $700-$800 installed
Old 02-10-15, 08:36 AM
  #50  
LexBrett
Lexus Test Driver
 
LexBrett's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2013
Location: Virginia
Posts: 1,076
Likes: 0
Received 13 Likes on 12 Posts
Default Some additives do actually work

My first car was a 1986 Chevy S10 Blazer.

Years ago, when I was about to go to graduate school, and was preparing to drive half way accross the US, I had my car inspected by a local mechanic. He said there was a large leak in the rear main seal, and that he couldn't repair it and it would costs thousands at the dealer.

I went to walmart and out a $2 stop leak additive into the oil and it stopped leaking. Every oil change I would include one or two bottles of the additive.

I had that car for another TEN years..

By the way, my second car was a Lexus LS400 and now I drive an sc430..
Old 09-16-23, 05:06 PM
  #51  
joeypreme
New Member
 
joeypreme's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2023
Location: ca
Posts: 1
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default

Originally Posted by PanicUnit
Hope people don't thnik I'm some kinda product shill or somethign since this is my first post, but I haven't had questions until lately, and I wanted to recommend a product for anyone with the dreaded rear main seal leak.

Yeah the local lexus specialist quoted like $200-400 for the seal and another $2000 for a "whole day's worth" of labor... this for a 1995 SC300 worth $5000-5500 tops, but still drives like a champ and has never had a repair more significant than the pulley.

Well I had been unemployed awhile and couldn't afford that even if I decided it was worth it, so I just let it keep leaking for a whole year, occasionally topping off the oil, and getting used to enjoying the smell of burning oil every time I drove it. Then people were telling me the seal would eventually blow completely and I'd be totally f'ked, so the other week I finally let a friend convince me to try this "real main seal reconditioner and repair" that you pour right into the crank case. The burning oil smell was gone within an hour. It's been 6 days of driving since now, including some pretty hard 100mph+ driving on the interstate today in the heat of the day - still no burning oil smell, not even from outside the car. I'm real funny about putting additives of any kind in my cars, but I'm sure glad I tried this stuff. It's like a miracle cure. I'm going to add it one more time during my next oil change to see if I can makes the seals even stronger. I feel like I've probably added another 2 years of life to this wonderful car and the best part is I spent not even 1/100 what I was eventually expecting.

Wanted to share this in case anyone else was stressing over their own leaky RMS. Here's what I used, bought it at sears automotive:

whats the product ? and link
Related Topics
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
Jvgs300
GS - 2nd Gen (1998-2005)
14
05-11-17 01:33 PM
kuziwk
LS - 1st and 2nd Gen (1990-2000)
15
04-21-15 05:37 PM
ES300MM
ES - 1st to 4th Gen (1990-2006)
3
07-09-14 07:02 AM
0nePutt
Maintenance
5
10-25-09 02:17 AM
AROD
Performance
6
03-08-03 11:20 PM



Quick Reply: Rear main seal leak fixed for $6 vs $2300



All times are GMT -7. The time now is 01:06 AM.