1jz engine no spark
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1jz engine no spark
Hey guys, I don't usually post on here problems I have because I can usually find the answer by searching. I have been stuck with this problem for about two weeks. My 1jz sc300 has been running fine up until 2 weeks ago. The car just would not start, the starter got hot and it sounded as if the starter couldn't turn the car over. Stupidly I thought it was the starter and I bought another one and it still wouldn't work!
I took out the plugs, and the engine was flooded with fuel!! I changed the plugs and oil. Also I bought a new crankshaft sensor, I tested the resistance on the two crank sensors, checked all of the fuses and I tested my igniter on my buddy's Sc, they all checked out fine.
Also when the ignition switch is at the on position, all of the coils are getting power, and the igniter is getting power. I also checked for any codes, and there are not any. Since then I have not flooded the engine again either.
Any advice or suggestions are appreciated,
Thanks
Ryan
I took out the plugs, and the engine was flooded with fuel!! I changed the plugs and oil. Also I bought a new crankshaft sensor, I tested the resistance on the two crank sensors, checked all of the fuses and I tested my igniter on my buddy's Sc, they all checked out fine.
Also when the ignition switch is at the on position, all of the coils are getting power, and the igniter is getting power. I also checked for any codes, and there are not any. Since then I have not flooded the engine again either.
Any advice or suggestions are appreciated,
Thanks
Ryan
#5
You have 2 camshaft sensors and 1 crankshaft sensor, make sure all are in spec.
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**Update**
I have replaced all capacitors on the ecu and still not start. It sounded like it almost did, it kind of half way sputtered. I'll try and pull the efi relay to ground the plugs, also does anyone know the correct specific resistance to test the cam sensors on the 1jz?
Thanks
I have replaced all capacitors on the ecu and still not start. It sounded like it almost did, it kind of half way sputtered. I'll try and pull the efi relay to ground the plugs, also does anyone know the correct specific resistance to test the cam sensors on the 1jz?
Thanks
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***Update***, I have diagnosed and diagnosed!! I found out that, I am getting power and ground on all the correct points on the igniter and the noise filter, when the ignition is switched in the on position. I cranked the engine, and the ground wires on the coils did not pulse, they stayed at a 10-12v, actually both wires on each coil.
Could this possibly point to my igniter not intermittently grounding the spark plugs?
Thanks
Could this possibly point to my igniter not intermittently grounding the spark plugs?
Thanks
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1jzgte no spark
im having the same problem it wad running i change the injectors then i didnt get no spark i just bout a new ignitor and still no spark open the ecu and theres nothin wrong with that i can figure it out ???
#13
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pull out a coil and plug, ground the threads of the plug on the engine, crank the car and visually check for spark. if you have spark it could be that your injectors you just swapped in are stuck closed. it's sounds unlikely but I just went through a month of electrical diagnosis only to find out 4 of 6 of the 440cc injectors I put in were stuck closed
#14
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Cam sensors and crank sensor need to be tested, but I dont know the resistance. 2JZ resistance for both sensors are:
Cold 835 ~ 1,400 W
Hot 1,060 ~ 1,645
It is likely that the 1JZ sensors will be the same or close, but no guarantees there It may tell you something though, if both cam sensors are not similar.
You could also swap your friends ECU in and see if that works. If you tested your igniter on his car and it worked fine, It could still be the ECU at this point.
Cold 835 ~ 1,400 W
Hot 1,060 ~ 1,645
It is likely that the 1JZ sensors will be the same or close, but no guarantees there It may tell you something though, if both cam sensors are not similar.
You could also swap your friends ECU in and see if that works. If you tested your igniter on his car and it worked fine, It could still be the ECU at this point.
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