Building A 2jzge Vs Swaping A 2jzgte
#17
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Tranny's not an issue. If I decide to go GTE I'll get the 6spd that goes with it. If I stay GE I,ve got an R154 from a soarer clip that I picked up cheap a little while back.
What I'm wondering is will the distributer in the GE be something that I will have to worry about vs the electronics on the GTE. And how do the oil squirters really affect performance.
What I'm wondering is will the distributer in the GE be something that I will have to worry about vs the electronics on the GTE. And how do the oil squirters really affect performance.
#18
Depends on where you plan to get the motor rebuilt. Only about 2% of the people out there truely know how to rebuild the 2JZ correctly that will last you a decent amount of time. With that being said, a rebuild will probably cost you around 4k if you want to do the whole eagle rods, weisco pistons setup which will be good for around 800whp or so. If your goals are less, you can get an aristo GTE for around 2 grand. If the motor gets a leak down test and compression test and everything passes with flying colors, then a stock longblock GTE will get you in the 600hp range fairly easy. I guess it depends on what your goals are exactly and what you are planning to use it for. If its going to be a daily monster, Id say go with the GTE. If you want a car for the strip with not much driving and have huge goals, Id say build the GE. Just remember, any ideot can put a motor together, but it takes a true builder to put it together right. Ive spent a rediculous amount of money on "built" motors whom the people building them claim to be specialists on the motors they build, and have the motor spin a rod 2k miles into the fresh motor babying it every mile. 99% of the time, nothing truely beats the build quality of an OEM build, despite the few companies out there like Titan whom their build quality actually exceeeds OEM. Whatever decision you go with, GL and I would be glad to help with any questions you may have.
-Malek
-Malek
Last edited by evileagle; 03-03-08 at 11:29 AM.
#19
Lexus Fanatic
iTrader: (1)
I've heard Eagle rods are weaker than stock, not 100% on that, but I'm sure I've heard it somewhere.
If you want a decent rebuild of your GE without spending a lot of cash, but still be quite nice, just rebuild it with GTE internals. Rods and crank are the same anyway, get GTE bearings if they are different. Get block cleaned/honed, get oversized pistons if you need it. You don't need some crazy-expensive pistons either. Stock GE and GTE pistons are VERY strong. Watch the compression levels though because it will make a difference on what sized headgasket you need for whatever CR you target. Using some sort of standalone with good tuning and you should be able to create an effective daily driver if you wanted, GTE or GE, it doesn't matter at the higher levels anyway. The GTE isn't going to drive any better than a GE when both are running a standalone, it comes down to the tune.
Add in ARP headstuds, get the head cleaned up, new valvestem seals, valvefaces cleaned or replaced if needed, etc. I wouldnt be so pessimistic as evileagle with engine-builders, but there are some crappy ones that don't normally deal with engines that have the tighter tolerances than a typical Japanese motor has. Its extremely hard to make decisions on it though, so you gotta do your research. Target quality first and then look at pricing, you don't always get what you pay for; anyone who says otherwise, hasn't had enough life experience yet
If you want a decent rebuild of your GE without spending a lot of cash, but still be quite nice, just rebuild it with GTE internals. Rods and crank are the same anyway, get GTE bearings if they are different. Get block cleaned/honed, get oversized pistons if you need it. You don't need some crazy-expensive pistons either. Stock GE and GTE pistons are VERY strong. Watch the compression levels though because it will make a difference on what sized headgasket you need for whatever CR you target. Using some sort of standalone with good tuning and you should be able to create an effective daily driver if you wanted, GTE or GE, it doesn't matter at the higher levels anyway. The GTE isn't going to drive any better than a GE when both are running a standalone, it comes down to the tune.
Add in ARP headstuds, get the head cleaned up, new valvestem seals, valvefaces cleaned or replaced if needed, etc. I wouldnt be so pessimistic as evileagle with engine-builders, but there are some crappy ones that don't normally deal with engines that have the tighter tolerances than a typical Japanese motor has. Its extremely hard to make decisions on it though, so you gotta do your research. Target quality first and then look at pricing, you don't always get what you pay for; anyone who says otherwise, hasn't had enough life experience yet
#20
Driver School Candidate
I know I'm hella late to the thread, but I wanted to thank everyone for the info. I've been wondering about building a 2jz-gte out of the 2jz-ge but I know the heads are not the same. I think I will be building it with forged Internal parts from cleggengine.com and Cryo-Treating the Entire Motor to withstand 1k+ HP as I am going Twincharged with it! (SC+TC)
#21
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I know I'm hella late to the thread, but I wanted to thank everyone for the info. I've been wondering about building a 2jz-gte out of the 2jz-ge but I know the heads are not the same. I think I will be building it with forged Internal parts from cleggengine.com and Cryo-Treating the Entire Motor to withstand 1k+ HP as I am going Twincharged with it! (SC+TC)
You won't need cryo-treated internals to withstand 1,000+ horsepower on a built 2JZ block, just good quality aftermarket rods and pistons.
You can build a full 2JZ-GTE (with the twins or a single) from a 2JZ-GE as a starting base but it's much more expensive to convert that than to make an NA-T engine. I'm doing it to mine but in 95% of cases it is not the most cost effective way to achieve your build goals. Once you get into using a 1JZ head or a 2JZ-GTE head it's really just the oil pump with the crank sensor provision that is missing from 92-95 GE blocks. Middle of 1996 blocks and 97's have the oil pump with the sensor.
Last edited by KahnBB6; 12-23-14 at 11:31 PM.
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