1JZ - Cannot Rev Pass 3000 RPMS - Need Guru.
10-22-07, 09:12 PM
#1
1JZ - Cannot Rev Pass 3000 RPMS - Need Guru.
Expanding this question outside of the large thread its on so more people can see.
Basically, after a 1JZ swap, the car runs very well, but it will not rev over 3K - 4K rpms, depending on how you use the throttle. This will happen in Neutral or in Gear.
This is what has been done already.
6 New Coil Packs
6 New NGK Spark Plugs
12v Fuel Pump Mod w/ Supra Pump
Other than that, thats it. (at least if I can remember correctly)
Before anyone says anything, we have been through dozens of pages of dead end answers and 2 weeks of this bs. Its getting old and we just want to finish the swap.
What do you guys think? There was something about an Orange and Black (Large) wire thats on the body plug thats supposed to go to somewhere, but we don't know much about that.
Basically, after a 1JZ swap, the car runs very well, but it will not rev over 3K - 4K rpms, depending on how you use the throttle. This will happen in Neutral or in Gear.
This is what has been done already.
6 New Coil Packs
6 New NGK Spark Plugs
12v Fuel Pump Mod w/ Supra Pump
Other than that, thats it. (at least if I can remember correctly)
Before anyone says anything, we have been through dozens of pages of dead end answers and 2 weeks of this bs. Its getting old and we just want to finish the swap.
What do you guys think? There was something about an Orange and Black (Large) wire thats on the body plug thats supposed to go to somewhere, but we don't know much about that.
10-23-07, 05:55 AM
#4
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Incorrect wiring or a bad cam angle sensor ,crank sensor sensor will cause the engine to go in limp mode which will not let you rev past 300rpm .Im guessing its ccc-tt car you are refering to . is the cel wired up? He told me to give him a call but im pretty occupied these days here at work. Before you go back in the harness check all sensors like pressure sensor ,ignitor cam angle these 3 sensors always give out on higher milage 1j's and if those are fine then the wiring can be incorrect as not all engines will drop right only requiring extending the harness some wires have to be moved depending on the year of the engine and your car.so far i did 3 1j swaps in sc's and its never a plug and play situation. Hope you guys get it sorted out
Last edited by sc250tt; 10-23-07 at 05:58 AM.
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10-23-07, 09:03 AM
#8
here maybee this will help about the body plug questions your having
ok, here is what I can offer.
Section 2: Wiring
-Extend the 5 body harness plugs blah blah blah you have heard it before. I extended mine 24" and that is a bit much, i would say 18-20" would be good and still leave a good amount of slack.
-Extend the plugs in the engine bay to reach the power steering rack, and the heater control valve if needed.
-Use the body plug for the alternator, wrap the one on the engine harness with electrical tape and tie it out of the way.
-Move the blue and yellow wire on the white female body side plug to the female orange body( i think it is IK24) side plug so that when the 1jz side body plug with the blue/yellow wire is inserted the blue/yellow wires connect. This will get the Check engine light working.
-To make your temp gauge work, ground pin 24 on the same white plug on the body side(IK2). It is a brown/black wire between a pink and a black wire. I t-tapped into the brown/black wire and used the body ground behind the kick panel.
-There are two thicker black/orange wires on the larger gray plug coming from the engine that supply power to the igniter and injectors. You will need to find a good "switched" 12V source to power these, as they don't recieve any power from the sc400 body. I broke out the multimeter and found an unused by the 1jz pin that had a good 12v switched signal and spliced these two into it.
-I had to do the 12V mod at the fuel pump ECU to get the car to start. There are two thicker wires at the fuel pump ECU, (1)Green and (1)Black/Red14 GA. Cut these 2 and connect them. Insulate them well.
-You can do the R109 resistor mod on the back of the cluster to get a tach signal to the cluster, but it will read 1000 rpms or better higher than it really is. My car will bury the tach needle before shifting at WOT. I'm looking for a nice SC300 cluster to use.
Issues that I need help with (others please chime in):
- Air Bag light was staying on all the time (key on or off). The cluster was always plugged in when the battery was connected. I have the bulb pulled until I get it figured out.
- The 1jz auto trans is momentarily bouncing off of the rev limiter when shifting at WOT. Sounds like a machine gun. Does it for about a third of a second on the 1-2 and 2-3 upshifts.
I am sure I have forgotten stuff and I have yet to take pics. Hope this helps.
Section 2: Wiring
-Extend the 5 body harness plugs blah blah blah you have heard it before. I extended mine 24" and that is a bit much, i would say 18-20" would be good and still leave a good amount of slack.
-Extend the plugs in the engine bay to reach the power steering rack, and the heater control valve if needed.
-Use the body plug for the alternator, wrap the one on the engine harness with electrical tape and tie it out of the way.
-Move the blue and yellow wire on the white female body side plug to the female orange body( i think it is IK24) side plug so that when the 1jz side body plug with the blue/yellow wire is inserted the blue/yellow wires connect. This will get the Check engine light working.
-To make your temp gauge work, ground pin 24 on the same white plug on the body side(IK2). It is a brown/black wire between a pink and a black wire. I t-tapped into the brown/black wire and used the body ground behind the kick panel.
-There are two thicker black/orange wires on the larger gray plug coming from the engine that supply power to the igniter and injectors. You will need to find a good "switched" 12V source to power these, as they don't recieve any power from the sc400 body. I broke out the multimeter and found an unused by the 1jz pin that had a good 12v switched signal and spliced these two into it.
-I had to do the 12V mod at the fuel pump ECU to get the car to start. There are two thicker wires at the fuel pump ECU, (1)Green and (1)Black/Red14 GA. Cut these 2 and connect them. Insulate them well.
-You can do the R109 resistor mod on the back of the cluster to get a tach signal to the cluster, but it will read 1000 rpms or better higher than it really is. My car will bury the tach needle before shifting at WOT. I'm looking for a nice SC300 cluster to use.
Issues that I need help with (others please chime in):
- Air Bag light was staying on all the time (key on or off). The cluster was always plugged in when the battery was connected. I have the bulb pulled until I get it figured out.
- The 1jz auto trans is momentarily bouncing off of the rev limiter when shifting at WOT. Sounds like a machine gun. Does it for about a third of a second on the 1-2 and 2-3 upshifts.
I am sure I have forgotten stuff and I have yet to take pics. Hope this helps.
10-23-07, 04:45 PM
#12
I'm using the stock w58 transmission. What is the NSW? and i havent run ecu trouble codes. I ran the two big black/orange wires to a 12volt source (the battery) and it ran worse, i dont think those wires are the problem. I looked at whatever sensors i could find but nothing looked out of place. I wish i knew someone local with a 1jz or 2jz to test the ignitor out but i dont
10-23-07, 06:24 PM
#13
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I had the exact same problem as you. I'd say check ALL of your grounds, and your ecu wiring. My problem was a loose ecu wire that was grounding out. Caused the same problems that you described. Also, it caused the ecu to fully retard the timing, thus totally destroying my turbo (super hot egt).
10-23-07, 08:19 PM
#15
Hes using the Soarer ECU
Hopefully he will check tommorow.
I had the exact same problem as you. I'd say check ALL of your grounds, and your ecu wiring. My problem was a loose ecu wire that was grounding out. Caused the same problems that you described. Also, it caused the ecu to fully retard the timing, thus totally destroying my turbo (super hot egt).
Hopefully he will check tommorow.