Originally Posted by jm94tt

As far as bolting the motor in and ancillaries you will need:

-Sc300 or soarer motor mount isolators, the top bolts on the 1uzfe mounts are tilted in at about 25 degrees to meet the aluminum brackets. The inline 6 mounts are vertical. You can use the 1jz aluminum brackets if they were included, or get some sc300 brackets.

-sc300 or soarer transmission mount isolator. The 1uzfe isolator is about 15mm taller than the 6 cylinder. I used 98 supra TT motor mounts and a 1jz specific transmission mount, purchased from Champion Toyota. They stock many 1jz specific parts.

- I bought a complete engine gasket set, including the valve stem seals which IMHO you should definitely change while the motor is out, a timing belt, serpentine belt, p/s pump rebuild set, radiator hoses, water pump, t-stat, for about 400 bucks from Champion. Not to shabby, if I must say.

- Use an SC300 driveshaft. Or just the rear half of the 400 shaft and the front half of the 300.

-If you are using the Soarer side mount intercooler, you cannot use the sc400 radiator. The flat intercooler pipe that runs along the bottom of the engine bay will interfere with the lower radiator hose outlet. I would recommend a sc300 radiator and coolant overflow as you will be able to keep your battery under the hood. Front mounts should be able to use the 400 radiator with overflow and possible battery relocation.

- Supra TT upper and lower radiator hoses work. Cut and make your own heater hoses.

-Use your sc400 power steering reservoir. Bend the brackets that are spot welded from the factory to fit the contour of your fuse box, drill 2 holes in the fuse box and bolt the reservoir to the fuse box. Mine seems pretty sturdy and looks semi-factory.

- It is possible to use the SC400 high pressure power steering hose but you will have to modify it a bit. At the rack, the hose is positioned when bolting it down with a small tab. If you loosen the bolt that holds the high pressure hose to the rack, you can rotate the hose until the locating tab is out of the way and point the hose towards the front of the car instead of towards the pass side where the v8 power steering pump is. You will have to curve the flexible section beside the radiator, against the drivers side frame rail, under the battery tray, and it will bolt to the 1jz power steering pump. To get enough clearance between the power steering pump pulley and the hard line of the high pressure pump I had to very gently bend the line to where I wanted it. If you kink or pinch the line, it is toast. This is one way to do it, not really the right way. Will it work? Yes it does and mine does not leak. Am I going to change it? ASAP.

-AC lines. You need the flexible hoses off of an sc300 compressor as well as the hard lines that run from the firewall to under the radiator fan. You can get the sc400 lines to fit pretty well, but guess what... there is no low pressure fitting on the sc400 lines as it is on the compressor.

-Fuel lines.... Here is what I have done, call it ghetto or whatever but it works fine and does not leak. Use the female NPT threaded fitting and some of the hose off of the sc400 motor combined with the cut portion that came with the motor set. Spliced together with a 5/16 brass barbed fitting, which has the same inner diameter as the hose. It is a ***** to get the hoses on but you can do it. Clamp the hose over the barbed section. Return hose = high pressure fuel line from the auto parts store, 1/4" I think.

-Throttle cable: You can use the sc400 throttle cable, it's tight, but works pretty well if you cut some of the rubber cushion away inside the cabin behind the gas pedal. I used an 95 4cyl Camry cable from the junkyard. It gives about 2.5-3" more to play with.

-I used the sc400 cruise actuator in conjunction with the 1jz cruise cable. It is tight around the intercooler pipe that goes into the fender but works.

-Exhaust... I cut the flange off of the stock 1jz downpipe, plasma cut it out to 3" diameter, bought a 3" aluminized steel mandrel U-bend, 4' of 3" aluminized steel tubing, a pair of cheapo 3" header flanges, a 3" in to dual 2.5" out y pipe, (2) 4' sections of 2.5" aluminized steel tubing, and a 2.5" mandrel U-bend from the muscle car guys at Summit Racing, and a pair of $24 N1 cans off of fleabay. Made some pie cuts out of the U-bends and mig welded everything together. Total cost= about $120. Yeah I wouldn't show it off and it's annoyingly loud but it will do fine until the ceramic twins take a dump.

-Extra: Don't throw away the heat exchanger behind your driver's side front bumper that the V8 uses to cool the hydro fan. Buy 6' of 3/8" ATF transmission hose and plumb that bad boy in line with the radiator's transmission cooling lines. Gains are probably marginal, but it has to help a little.


Section 2: Wiring

-Extend the 5 body harness plugs blah blah blah you have heard it before. I extended mine 24" and that is a bit much, i would say 18-20" would be good and still leave a good amount of slack.

-Extend the plugs in the engine bay to reach the power steering rack, and the heater control valve if needed.

-Use the body plug for the alternator, wrap the one on the engine harness with electrical tape and tie it out of the way.

-Move the blue and yellow wire on the white female body side plug to the female orange body( i think it is IK24) side plug so that when the 1jz side body plug with the blue/yellow wire is inserted the blue/yellow wires connect. This will get the Check engine light working.

-To make your temp gauge work, ground pin 24 on the same white plug on the body side(IK2). It is a brown/black wire between a pink and a black wire. I t-tapped into the brown/black wire and used the body ground behind the kick panel.

-There are two thicker black/orange wires on the larger gray plug coming from the engine that supply power to the igniter and injectors. You will need to find a good "switched" 12V source to power these, as they don't recieve any power from the sc400 body. I broke out the multimeter and found an unused by the 1jz pin that had a good 12v switched signal and spliced these two into it.

-I had to do the 12V mod at the fuel pump ECU to get the car to start. There are two thicker wires at the fuel pump ECU, (1)Green and (1)Black/Red14 GA. Cut these 2 and connect them. Insulate them well. The thread for this is here: https://www.clublexus.com/forums/sho...d.php?t=291189

-You can do the R109 resistor mod on the back of the cluster to get a tach signal to the cluster, but it will read 1000 rpms or better higher than it really is. My car will bury the tach needle before shifting at WOT. Get an sc300 cluster.