Boosting my 95SC4 and some other projects
11-01-07, 08:41 PM
#46
Ordered a few more parts today.
A tensioner and idler for a 4cyl Camry t-belt.
I hope the idler will replace the top OEM ribbed drive belt idler.
I hope to use the tensioner as the SC idler on the bracket. Being a bit adjustable will allow me to put a little extra tension on the drive belt, I've always felt that the V-8 belts are a bit too loose.
Ordered a boost limiter valve and bung. I think I already explained the usefullness of this. If not, go here and read.
http://www.928m.com/parts/boostlimitervalve.php
KC
A tensioner and idler for a 4cyl Camry t-belt.
I hope the idler will replace the top OEM ribbed drive belt idler.
I hope to use the tensioner as the SC idler on the bracket. Being a bit adjustable will allow me to put a little extra tension on the drive belt, I've always felt that the V-8 belts are a bit too loose.
Ordered a boost limiter valve and bung. I think I already explained the usefullness of this. If not, go here and read.
http://www.928m.com/parts/boostlimitervalve.php
KC
11-02-07, 02:30 PM
#47
New Pics
Got some bolts today long enough to attatch the V-9 to the bracket. Some teaser pics..
The bolt pattern for the V-9 is a bit different than the V-1/V-2 that the bracket was intended for, but I managed to get three of the holes lined up. Once I get the bracket on the engine I will be better able to determine where and how many holes I will need to drill into the bracket.
KC
The bolt pattern for the V-9 is a bit different than the V-1/V-2 that the bracket was intended for, but I managed to get three of the holes lined up. Once I get the bracket on the engine I will be better able to determine where and how many holes I will need to drill into the bracket.
KC
11-02-07, 04:59 PM
#48
Got some bolts today long enough to attatch the V-9 to the bracket. Some teaser pics..
The bolt pattern for the V-9 is a bit different than the V-1/V-2 that the bracket was intended for, but I managed to get three of the holes lined up. Once I get the bracket on the engine I will be better able to determine where and how many holes I will need to drill into the bracket.
KC
The bolt pattern for the V-9 is a bit different than the V-1/V-2 that the bracket was intended for, but I managed to get three of the holes lined up. Once I get the bracket on the engine I will be better able to determine where and how many holes I will need to drill into the bracket.
KC
I really wish my bracket would arrive soon.
11-03-07, 09:14 PM
#51
Hopefully, within a month.
Still waiting on a bunch of parts. I won't be able to do the fan conversion this weekend, still missing some parts. Also, won't be able to do the intercooler mock up, don't have it yet.
Now shooting to do both the weekend before Thanksgiving.
Tomorrow I will be exploring oil drain options.
Still need to decide on wideband, fuel managment, and a few other small things.
KC
Still waiting on a bunch of parts. I won't be able to do the fan conversion this weekend, still missing some parts. Also, won't be able to do the intercooler mock up, don't have it yet.
Now shooting to do both the weekend before Thanksgiving.
Tomorrow I will be exploring oil drain options.
Still need to decide on wideband, fuel managment, and a few other small things.
KC
11-04-07, 08:47 PM
#52
Guys,
Couldn't do the intercooler mock up today, hasn't arrived yet. Couldn't do the fan conversion, still waiting on fan, fan clutch, and pulley.
But....I did put in an oil drain today. This is by no means the prettiest drain setup around. I do however feel it will function quite well.
Basic order of things.
1. I removed the steel oil pan.
2. Drilled a hole in the upper pan.
3. Threaded for a 1/4 NPT nipple.
4. Installed 1/4 nipple with sealer.
5. Used a 3/8 NPT to 1/4 NPT reducing coupler as a jam nut of sorts on the back side of the nipple.
6. Installed a 1/4 to 1/4 elbow.
7. Put in a plug for now.
First thing, I know some of you are already thinking a 1/4 inch isn't enough for a drain. Well, the inside diameter of the 1/4 nipple is the same size (very very slightly smaller) as a standard Vortech drain hose barb.
Vortech hose barb inside diatmeter.
1/4 NPT nipple inside diameter.
If 3/8 i.d. hose is good enough for Vortech, it's good enough for me.
This is the 1/4 nipple used. Threaded into the upper pan from the outside.
This is the 3/8 to 1/4 reducer used as a jam nut, threaded onto the nipple from the inside.
In this picture, the steel pan is removed along with the oil baffle. The hole is drilled into the driver's side, rearish of the upper pan. After drilling, I threaded using a 1/4 NPT tap.
I installed the nipple from the outside of the pan with sealer. I've never been very good at making FIPG look good BTW.
Installed the coupler on the inside of the pan, onto the nipple with more sealer. Again, never been good at making sealer look good.
Installed a 1/4 NPT elbow and plug. For reference, this is the driver side of the engine. To the left of the elbow is the oil level sensor. The wire to the right is for the driver side O2 sensor (front sensor). It's a little hard to tell from the pic but the elbow is tilted slightly up. Also, the O2 sensor plug was put back into place and shouldn't interfere with the drain hose.
This took me about 3 hours to do and I spent about an hour and a half deciding where to drill. I was a bit nervous.
Again, I know it's a bit ugly, but I don't expect any problems from it. In fact, I think it will function quite well. I will run the drain hose in between the engine and the motor mount, straight to the supercharger.
One note on removing the steel pan. It's easy to remove but the motor needs to be jacked up a bit so that the pan can be tilted enough to clear the suspension crossmember.
This, to me, is a huge step in completing this project. With the drain out of the way, I may be boosted by Thanksgiving!
KC
Couldn't do the intercooler mock up today, hasn't arrived yet. Couldn't do the fan conversion, still waiting on fan, fan clutch, and pulley.
But....I did put in an oil drain today. This is by no means the prettiest drain setup around. I do however feel it will function quite well.
Basic order of things.
1. I removed the steel oil pan.
2. Drilled a hole in the upper pan.
3. Threaded for a 1/4 NPT nipple.
4. Installed 1/4 nipple with sealer.
5. Used a 3/8 NPT to 1/4 NPT reducing coupler as a jam nut of sorts on the back side of the nipple.
6. Installed a 1/4 to 1/4 elbow.
7. Put in a plug for now.
First thing, I know some of you are already thinking a 1/4 inch isn't enough for a drain. Well, the inside diameter of the 1/4 nipple is the same size (very very slightly smaller) as a standard Vortech drain hose barb.
Vortech hose barb inside diatmeter.
1/4 NPT nipple inside diameter.
If 3/8 i.d. hose is good enough for Vortech, it's good enough for me.
This is the 1/4 nipple used. Threaded into the upper pan from the outside.
This is the 3/8 to 1/4 reducer used as a jam nut, threaded onto the nipple from the inside.
In this picture, the steel pan is removed along with the oil baffle. The hole is drilled into the driver's side, rearish of the upper pan. After drilling, I threaded using a 1/4 NPT tap.
I installed the nipple from the outside of the pan with sealer. I've never been very good at making FIPG look good BTW.
Installed the coupler on the inside of the pan, onto the nipple with more sealer. Again, never been good at making sealer look good.
Installed a 1/4 NPT elbow and plug. For reference, this is the driver side of the engine. To the left of the elbow is the oil level sensor. The wire to the right is for the driver side O2 sensor (front sensor). It's a little hard to tell from the pic but the elbow is tilted slightly up. Also, the O2 sensor plug was put back into place and shouldn't interfere with the drain hose.
This took me about 3 hours to do and I spent about an hour and a half deciding where to drill. I was a bit nervous.
Again, I know it's a bit ugly, but I don't expect any problems from it. In fact, I think it will function quite well. I will run the drain hose in between the engine and the motor mount, straight to the supercharger.
One note on removing the steel pan. It's easy to remove but the motor needs to be jacked up a bit so that the pan can be tilted enough to clear the suspension crossmember.
This, to me, is a huge step in completing this project. With the drain out of the way, I may be boosted by Thanksgiving!
KC
11-05-07, 09:16 AM
#53
KC, this is a massive step. Congratulations on the progress you are making.
As for looks, I am pretty sure that tapping the oil pan is all about function and not a bit about aesthetics.
What you have done is legitimately awesome: what a big hurdle to get over!
As for looks, I am pretty sure that tapping the oil pan is all about function and not a bit about aesthetics.
What you have done is legitimately awesome: what a big hurdle to get over!
11-05-07, 10:50 AM
#55
You (Blizzy) specifically, may now decide to again rethink your head unit choice. Like I said, in only took about three hours to do and most of that time was being nervous about drilling the hole and figuring out that the motor had to be jacked up a little to get the pan out.
KC
11-05-07, 10:59 AM
#56
If you are going to weld a bung, please make sure you see SC400TT's post here.
https://www.clublexus.com/forums/sho...99&postcount=7
He had leak problems and needed to remove the upper pan to get a good weld. Removing the upper pan is NOT an easy job. Would require removal of the motor or removal of the front suspension crossmember.
IMHO, the low amount of oil flowing through the Vortech does not justify going through all that work to weld a huge AN bung.
KC
11-05-07, 11:24 AM
#57
Oh interesting..
whats stopping me from welding on the lower pan then? the sump?
I want to do ALL I can for my oil system. My last car caught FIRE because of the oil draining problem. (backed up, line exploded on the manifold and poof) so i wont be doing that again!
whats stopping me from welding on the lower pan then? the sump?
I want to do ALL I can for my oil system. My last car caught FIRE because of the oil draining problem. (backed up, line exploded on the manifold and poof) so i wont be doing that again!
Last edited by RedPhoenix; 11-05-07 at 11:31 AM.
11-05-07, 11:35 AM
#58
An oil drain needs to be above the oil level in the pan. With the engine running, there MAY be enough oil circulating through the motor to drop the level in the pan below an installed drain fitting, but I wouldn't take that chance personally.
If you drain fitting is not above the oil level in the pan, there is potential for the oil to back up into the drain hose, all the way to the supercharger. This could cause the charger to leak and not be properly oiled.
KC
11-05-07, 12:11 PM
#60
Fastenal has about anything you could imagine.
http://www.fastenal.com/web/home.ex;...N10jQjwqQzOnh8
KC