Front Brake Pads GS400
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Front Brake Pads GS400
When I was installing EBC Greenstuff brake pads on a '99 GS400 yesterday I noticed the old stock outboard pad was worn more than the inboard pad. The wear indicators were on the inside pads. Is it typical for the outside pad to wear faster on the GS4 and is it possible to install the wear indicator on the outside pad?
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GJSGS4,
It looks like got a dust or dirt stick on the caliber, that's why it wear unevenly, it's a command problem. You may use a cleaner to clean regularly to that area, it really help.
KevGS4
It looks like got a dust or dirt stick on the caliber, that's why it wear unevenly, it's a command problem. You may use a cleaner to clean regularly to that area, it really help.
KevGS4
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Thanks for the reply. IMO it wasn't dirt or dust. The rotor surface and the caliper were very clean. The outer pad was 1/8 inch thinner than the inside pad on both front wheels. If I hadn't inspected the brakes the outside pad would have worn down and scorced the rotor before the wear indicator on the inside pad would have indicated the pads were getting thin.
Anybody have any experience with this wear pattern?
Anybody have any experience with this wear pattern?
#4
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Did you take the sliding pins out, cleaned and re-grease it with hi-temp. grease?
The sliding pins locate behind the caliper bolts you took out in order to swing the caliper out to replace the pads.
The sliding pins locate behind the caliper bolts you took out in order to swing the caliper out to replace the pads.
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Yes, I did clean and grease the sliding pins, but they moved freely before I greased them. IMO the sliding pins being dirty or stuck would cause the inside pad to wear at a higher rate since the piston pushes directly on the inside pad. What I observed was the outside pad being more worn. I don't think there is anything wrong with the braking system. This is on a '99 GS4 with 35K mi., so the brakes are in excellent working order. I'm just wondering if it has something to do with the brake design and wanted to know if anyone had noticed a similar wear pattern on their car, i.e. the outside pad wearing faster than inside pad.
#6
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Originally posted by GJSGS4
Yes, I did clean and grease the sliding pins, but they moved freely before I greased them. IMO the sliding pins being dirty or stuck would cause the inside pad to wear at a higher rate since the piston pushes directly on the inside pad. What I observed was the outside pad being more worn. I don't think there is anything wrong with the braking system. This is on a '99 GS4 with 35K mi., so the brakes are in excellent working order. I'm just wondering if it has something to do with the brake design and wanted to know if anyone had noticed a similar wear pattern on their car, i.e. the outside pad wearing faster than inside pad.
Yes, I did clean and grease the sliding pins, but they moved freely before I greased them. IMO the sliding pins being dirty or stuck would cause the inside pad to wear at a higher rate since the piston pushes directly on the inside pad. What I observed was the outside pad being more worn. I don't think there is anything wrong with the braking system. This is on a '99 GS4 with 35K mi., so the brakes are in excellent working order. I'm just wondering if it has something to do with the brake design and wanted to know if anyone had noticed a similar wear pattern on their car, i.e. the outside pad wearing faster than inside pad.
I don't have the answer for your GS pads. I had problems with sliding pins on my 93 SC400 and 93 Honda Prelude SI which made the pads wear out unevenly. That why I ask that if you clean your pins
From the 93 SC400 repair manual, it read that the sliding brushings need to be replace every time it taken out. The top brushing is different from the bottom one.
#7
Lexus Test Driver
I just ordered the Greenstuff Pads. I am having a buddy put the pads on, we aren't talking rough stuff here are we? No differnce then another doing pads on any other car? any extra tips would be helpful.
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#8
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Its as easy or easier than most. Make a hook out of a coat hanger to hang up the caliper after unbolting it. Check the rubber bellow seals over the slide pins for tears. Make sure the slide pins are free to move. Regrease slide pins with high temp grease if needed. Use a C-clamp to push the piston back into the housing. Mic the rotors, the minimum thickness is stamped on the hub. If you are in a road salt area use some anti-seze on the wheel centering hub. Torque the wheels nuts to 92-95 ft-lbs.
#9
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Originally posted by GJSGS4
Torque the wheels nuts to 92-95 ft-lbs.
Torque the wheels nuts to 92-95 ft-lbs.
Where did you get that torque number?
For SC400, wheel nuts are 76 ft-lb. Bolts that attach to sliding pins 25 ft-lb. Braket bolts 86 ft-lb.
Last edited by VQT; 04-01-02 at 03:39 PM.
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Rotor thickness will depend if there was 48K mi of stop-n-go driving or a lot of hard stops. I was suprised that my rotors at 35K mi. were at 32mm and I think the limit was 30mm. My Mercedes front rotors would only last about 35K mi., hoping to get longer life from the GS4.
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I like the greenstuff pads. They have a little more grip and a little less dust then the OEM's. They are worth the slight premiun you pay over the stock pad. If the Kevlar is easier on your rotor (as claimed) they may be a bargin, unless your looking for a reason to get drilled or slotted rotors.
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