Xevuhtess7

after bleeding the brakes on my sc300, the pedal goes almost to the floor before any real braking force happens. however im still able to get some abs action when i slam the brakes on dry pavement. i can still stop but i just have to step the pedal almost to the floor to do so. its rather scary because it feels like there's no fluid and i wont be able to stop. any thoughts on what is causing this?

the e-brake light on my dash stays lit when the e-brake is off too

possible culprit?: i bled the driver side front caliper by loosening the banjo bolt on the brake line because the top half of the bleeder screw snapped off

rbeermann

were you using a one-man brake bleeder? i bet you will still find air in the lines

Tammy

If your lucky, "easy out" the bleeder nipple broken in the caliper. Use a good penetrating oil. If your not lucky, replace the caliper. Loosing the hose only adds air to the system.

You might be in the situation where Lexus or Toyota may have to bleed the antilock brakes. To my knowledge, you need their service computer to run and activate the solenoids in the ABS pump.
This way you bleed the entire system. Good luck.

Xevuhtess7

i didnt use a one-man bleeder, i had a friend help me. im pretty sure there is no air in the lines, except mabye in that front drivers side since i didnt use the bleeder screw. i think im just gonna replace the caliper and re-bleed all 4.

koolaidman

rebleed all 4 first and did u do the correct bleeding procedure.

start with RR
then LR
then FR
then FL

Xevuhtess7

no i went FR, FL, RR, RL

i will try and rebleed in the correct order and see if that helps.

Chpsk8

Always bleed the brakes the furthest from the master cylinder first, then next closest, etc..

If you used the banjo bolt, then the caliper itself has air in it. Fix that, then rebleed in the correct order and you'll be in great shape.

Xevuhtess7

i just realized that i didnt have the engine on too.

should be pretty easy to straighten this up once i get a caliper

thanks for the help guys