is wheel bearing repack nec???
12-30-11, 03:57 PM
#16
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12-30-11, 10:31 PM
#17
I've been doing bearing repacks previously on my toyota 4runner but now on my LX, so about 10 yrs of bearing repack experience. The 4runners (at least pre 03), toyota trucks, LX's (96-07), and Landcruisers (at least 80-2007) have the same front bearing design. The only difference is the size of the bearings. The tools you use are, in fact, the same (brass bar, snap ring pliers, 54mm socket, torque wrenches, spring gauge). Here are my lessons learned:
1) The 30K mi repack interval is way overkill unless you wheel the vehicle hard (over rocks, etc) or submerge the bearings. If the latter, repack ASAP. Normal water like driving on wet roads at 70mph have no impact on water integrity. The spec of 30K mi is an international spec, where in many countries/continents, the vehicles are always driven offroad.
2) 90-100K is kind of long (4runner, which was a hand-me-down, didn't get repacked for the first time until 102K mi). The bearings tend to loosen over time, and this adds slack (unresponsiveness) to your steering feel. You can test this by jacking up the front tire. Grab it at 6 and 12 o'clock and test how much wobble there is. If there's a hint of it, repack.
3) I tend to favor 60K mi intervals since 30K is too soon and 100K is too long.
One time, I had the Toyota dealer do my LX bearings 'cause I got lazy. About 3 months later, I had to replace the rotors (were grabbing). I did this work myself as usual. I found that the tech way over-torqued the DS locknut (like 75 ft lbs instead of the spec of 43 ft-lbs). This explains why the fuel economy dropped by 1.5-2 mpg after the repack! Personally, I don't trust the dealer or anyone doing my repacks. You have to get the torque on the locknuts just right (IIRC, around 12 lbs on the spring gauge).
The reason to repack when you change your brake rotors is the inner bearing is on the inside of the hub, and the rotor is bolted to the hub. On the Toyota/Lexus 4x4's, to remove the front rotor, you have to pull off the caliper, then remove the 4wd flange (snapring), the lock washers, 2 axle nuts, etc. before you can pull off the hub. The rotor/hub comes off as one big, heavy unit. You turn unbolt the rotor from the back of the hub. Another reason to replace your own rotors is you can torque all the rotor bolts equally. The dealer just uses an impact wrench, which doesn't get the precise torque. They usually over-torque, which stretches the bolts. Either way, if you elect NOT to repack the bearings when replacing a front rotor, the labor is essentially the same! This is because the only additional work required to repack the inner bearing is to pull out the brass oil seal, remove and clean the inner bearing, repack the inner bearing and race w/ new grease, and set a new seal. That's it. I'm talking maybe 15 min extra per wheel for an amateur mechanic like me! Don't let the dealer think (and charge you for) there's a ton of extra work in repacking your bearings when you are having front rotors changed, 'cause there isn't. Either way, the OUTER bearing must be repacked (at the minimum, you must add new grease to it in order to achiever the proper torque). When the hub/rotor assembly is re-installed, you slide that on the spindle w/ the regreased outer bearing, install a washer and locknut, torque the locknet to a certain value, turn the hub a few times to work in the grease, and loosen the locknut. Then you retorque to a different value, install the lock washer, then outer locknut and torque that. Then stake the lock washer tab. Last comes the new flange washer (paper washer), install the cone washers and flange nuts, snap ring, then the dust cap. IIRC, the first time I ever did the repack, it took me 8 hrs for one wheel (!), then 5 hrs for the next front wheel. After learning the tricks of the trade, I have the time down to about 3-4 hrs for both wheels.
If you are merely changing brake pads, you don't have to go through any of this work. Just remove the front wheel, then remove the retainer springs in the caliper, the pins, and the pads & shims should slide right out. To replace the rear rotor, it's a lot easier than the front. Just unbolt the rear caliper torque plate, remove the caliper, and the rotor pulls right off! This is how it's done on most passenger (non 4x4) cars.
1) The 30K mi repack interval is way overkill unless you wheel the vehicle hard (over rocks, etc) or submerge the bearings. If the latter, repack ASAP. Normal water like driving on wet roads at 70mph have no impact on water integrity. The spec of 30K mi is an international spec, where in many countries/continents, the vehicles are always driven offroad.
2) 90-100K is kind of long (4runner, which was a hand-me-down, didn't get repacked for the first time until 102K mi). The bearings tend to loosen over time, and this adds slack (unresponsiveness) to your steering feel. You can test this by jacking up the front tire. Grab it at 6 and 12 o'clock and test how much wobble there is. If there's a hint of it, repack.
3) I tend to favor 60K mi intervals since 30K is too soon and 100K is too long.
One time, I had the Toyota dealer do my LX bearings 'cause I got lazy. About 3 months later, I had to replace the rotors (were grabbing). I did this work myself as usual. I found that the tech way over-torqued the DS locknut (like 75 ft lbs instead of the spec of 43 ft-lbs). This explains why the fuel economy dropped by 1.5-2 mpg after the repack! Personally, I don't trust the dealer or anyone doing my repacks. You have to get the torque on the locknuts just right (IIRC, around 12 lbs on the spring gauge).
The reason to repack when you change your brake rotors is the inner bearing is on the inside of the hub, and the rotor is bolted to the hub. On the Toyota/Lexus 4x4's, to remove the front rotor, you have to pull off the caliper, then remove the 4wd flange (snapring), the lock washers, 2 axle nuts, etc. before you can pull off the hub. The rotor/hub comes off as one big, heavy unit. You turn unbolt the rotor from the back of the hub. Another reason to replace your own rotors is you can torque all the rotor bolts equally. The dealer just uses an impact wrench, which doesn't get the precise torque. They usually over-torque, which stretches the bolts. Either way, if you elect NOT to repack the bearings when replacing a front rotor, the labor is essentially the same! This is because the only additional work required to repack the inner bearing is to pull out the brass oil seal, remove and clean the inner bearing, repack the inner bearing and race w/ new grease, and set a new seal. That's it. I'm talking maybe 15 min extra per wheel for an amateur mechanic like me! Don't let the dealer think (and charge you for) there's a ton of extra work in repacking your bearings when you are having front rotors changed, 'cause there isn't. Either way, the OUTER bearing must be repacked (at the minimum, you must add new grease to it in order to achiever the proper torque). When the hub/rotor assembly is re-installed, you slide that on the spindle w/ the regreased outer bearing, install a washer and locknut, torque the locknet to a certain value, turn the hub a few times to work in the grease, and loosen the locknut. Then you retorque to a different value, install the lock washer, then outer locknut and torque that. Then stake the lock washer tab. Last comes the new flange washer (paper washer), install the cone washers and flange nuts, snap ring, then the dust cap. IIRC, the first time I ever did the repack, it took me 8 hrs for one wheel (!), then 5 hrs for the next front wheel. After learning the tricks of the trade, I have the time down to about 3-4 hrs for both wheels.
If you are merely changing brake pads, you don't have to go through any of this work. Just remove the front wheel, then remove the retainer springs in the caliper, the pins, and the pads & shims should slide right out. To replace the rear rotor, it's a lot easier than the front. Just unbolt the rear caliper torque plate, remove the caliper, and the rotor pulls right off! This is how it's done on most passenger (non 4x4) cars.
01-13-12, 08:09 AM
#18
Pole Position
It would be really great/nice of you if you can write up with pics a DIY for repack?/ front brakes..i like to work on my cars but the repacks kinda scare me..
i just change t he rotors/pads for rear on my lx but stopped for the front because i had no idea how to take them out..its my first true 4x4,- i have worked on rx/gs/isf..etc
i just change t he rotors/pads for rear on my lx but stopped for the front because i had no idea how to take them out..its my first true 4x4,- i have worked on rx/gs/isf..etc
I've been doing bearing repacks previously on my toyota 4runner but now on my LX, so about 10 yrs of bearing repack experience. The 4runners (at least pre 03), toyota trucks, LX's (96-07), and Landcruisers (at least 80-2007) have the same front bearing design. The only difference is the size of the bearings. The tools you use are, in fact, the same (brass bar, snap ring pliers, 54mm socket, torque wrenches, spring gauge). Here are my lessons learned:
1) The 30K mi repack interval is way overkill unless you wheel the vehicle hard (over rocks, etc) or submerge the bearings. If the latter, repack ASAP. Normal water like driving on wet roads at 70mph have no impact on water integrity. The spec of 30K mi is an international spec, where in many countries/continents, the vehicles are always driven offroad.
2) 90-100K is kind of long (4runner, which was a hand-me-down, didn't get repacked for the first time until 102K mi). The bearings tend to loosen over time, and this adds slack (unresponsiveness) to your steering feel. You can test this by jacking up the front tire. Grab it at 6 and 12 o'clock and test how much wobble there is. If there's a hint of it, repack.
3) I tend to favor 60K mi intervals since 30K is too soon and 100K is too long.
One time, I had the Toyota dealer do my LX bearings 'cause I got lazy. About 3 months later, I had to replace the rotors (were grabbing). I did this work myself as usual. I found that the tech way over-torqued the DS locknut (like 75 ft lbs instead of the spec of 43 ft-lbs). This explains why the fuel economy dropped by 1.5-2 mpg after the repack! Personally, I don't trust the dealer or anyone doing my repacks. You have to get the torque on the locknuts just right (IIRC, around 12 lbs on the spring gauge).
The reason to repack when you change your brake rotors is the inner bearing is on the inside of the hub, and the rotor is bolted to the hub. On the Toyota/Lexus 4x4's, to remove the front rotor, you have to pull off the caliper, then remove the 4wd flange (snapring), the lock washers, 2 axle nuts, etc. before you can pull off the hub. The rotor/hub comes off as one big, heavy unit. You turn unbolt the rotor from the back of the hub. Another reason to replace your own rotors is you can torque all the rotor bolts equally. The dealer just uses an impact wrench, which doesn't get the precise torque. They usually over-torque, which stretches the bolts. Either way, if you elect NOT to repack the bearings when replacing a front rotor, the labor is essentially the same! This is because the only additional work required to repack the inner bearing is to pull out the brass oil seal, remove and clean the inner bearing, repack the inner bearing and race w/ new grease, and set a new seal. That's it. I'm talking maybe 15 min extra per wheel for an amateur mechanic like me! Don't let the dealer think (and charge you for) there's a ton of extra work in repacking your bearings when you are having front rotors changed, 'cause there isn't. Either way, the OUTER bearing must be repacked (at the minimum, you must add new grease to it in order to achiever the proper torque). When the hub/rotor assembly is re-installed, you slide that on the spindle w/ the regreased outer bearing, install a washer and locknut, torque the locknet to a certain value, turn the hub a few times to work in the grease, and loosen the locknut. Then you retorque to a different value, install the lock washer, then outer locknut and torque that. Then stake the lock washer tab. Last comes the new flange washer (paper washer), install the cone washers and flange nuts, snap ring, then the dust cap. IIRC, the first time I ever did the repack, it took me 8 hrs for one wheel (!), then 5 hrs for the next front wheel. After learning the tricks of the trade, I have the time down to about 3-4 hrs for both wheels.
If you are merely changing brake pads, you don't have to go through any of this work. Just remove the front wheel, then remove the retainer springs in the caliper, the pins, and the pads & shims should slide right out. To replace the rear rotor, it's a lot easier than the front. Just unbolt the rear caliper torque plate, remove the caliper, and the rotor pulls right off! This is how it's done on most passenger (non 4x4) cars.
1) The 30K mi repack interval is way overkill unless you wheel the vehicle hard (over rocks, etc) or submerge the bearings. If the latter, repack ASAP. Normal water like driving on wet roads at 70mph have no impact on water integrity. The spec of 30K mi is an international spec, where in many countries/continents, the vehicles are always driven offroad.
2) 90-100K is kind of long (4runner, which was a hand-me-down, didn't get repacked for the first time until 102K mi). The bearings tend to loosen over time, and this adds slack (unresponsiveness) to your steering feel. You can test this by jacking up the front tire. Grab it at 6 and 12 o'clock and test how much wobble there is. If there's a hint of it, repack.
3) I tend to favor 60K mi intervals since 30K is too soon and 100K is too long.
One time, I had the Toyota dealer do my LX bearings 'cause I got lazy. About 3 months later, I had to replace the rotors (were grabbing). I did this work myself as usual. I found that the tech way over-torqued the DS locknut (like 75 ft lbs instead of the spec of 43 ft-lbs). This explains why the fuel economy dropped by 1.5-2 mpg after the repack! Personally, I don't trust the dealer or anyone doing my repacks. You have to get the torque on the locknuts just right (IIRC, around 12 lbs on the spring gauge).
The reason to repack when you change your brake rotors is the inner bearing is on the inside of the hub, and the rotor is bolted to the hub. On the Toyota/Lexus 4x4's, to remove the front rotor, you have to pull off the caliper, then remove the 4wd flange (snapring), the lock washers, 2 axle nuts, etc. before you can pull off the hub. The rotor/hub comes off as one big, heavy unit. You turn unbolt the rotor from the back of the hub. Another reason to replace your own rotors is you can torque all the rotor bolts equally. The dealer just uses an impact wrench, which doesn't get the precise torque. They usually over-torque, which stretches the bolts. Either way, if you elect NOT to repack the bearings when replacing a front rotor, the labor is essentially the same! This is because the only additional work required to repack the inner bearing is to pull out the brass oil seal, remove and clean the inner bearing, repack the inner bearing and race w/ new grease, and set a new seal. That's it. I'm talking maybe 15 min extra per wheel for an amateur mechanic like me! Don't let the dealer think (and charge you for) there's a ton of extra work in repacking your bearings when you are having front rotors changed, 'cause there isn't. Either way, the OUTER bearing must be repacked (at the minimum, you must add new grease to it in order to achiever the proper torque). When the hub/rotor assembly is re-installed, you slide that on the spindle w/ the regreased outer bearing, install a washer and locknut, torque the locknet to a certain value, turn the hub a few times to work in the grease, and loosen the locknut. Then you retorque to a different value, install the lock washer, then outer locknut and torque that. Then stake the lock washer tab. Last comes the new flange washer (paper washer), install the cone washers and flange nuts, snap ring, then the dust cap. IIRC, the first time I ever did the repack, it took me 8 hrs for one wheel (!), then 5 hrs for the next front wheel. After learning the tricks of the trade, I have the time down to about 3-4 hrs for both wheels.
If you are merely changing brake pads, you don't have to go through any of this work. Just remove the front wheel, then remove the retainer springs in the caliper, the pins, and the pads & shims should slide right out. To replace the rear rotor, it's a lot easier than the front. Just unbolt the rear caliper torque plate, remove the caliper, and the rotor pulls right off! This is how it's done on most passenger (non 4x4) cars.
Last edited by UZ214; 01-13-12 at 08:13 AM.
02-01-12, 09:08 AM
#21
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Been putting off doing my rears for way too long, 180K. It's time for the second front end repack & new trunnion bearings though (LX450 solid front axle), what a nasty/greasy job...
02-29-12, 08:47 PM
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03-30-12, 09:07 PM
#23
About 5 yrs ago, the Toyota dealer was charging about $350 + parts. It's generally 3-4 hrs labor + parts. The retail on the inner bearing seals are like $35/ea, plus you need the lock washers and drive flange gasket. Figure $50 per wheel x 2=100 in parts, then ~$400 in labor= $500 (a swag). No matter who does it, it's a labor-intensive, messy job. I DIY for about $50 plus an afternoon's labor. Personally, I don't trust anyone working on my brakes or bearings. The Toyota tech way over-torqued one bearing,causing the fuel economy to drop by 2 mpg on the LX. A few months later, I swapped out the rotors and pads and retorqued the bearings to spec (this is when I discovered the over-torqued bearing...locknut was way too tight). After that, mpg's where back up by 2mpg.
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