LS - 4th Gen (2007-2017) Discussion topics related to the current flagship models LS460, LS460L and LS600H

No interior heat at idle in 2008 LS460L - Low coolant ??

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Old 01-03-15, 02:00 PM
  #16  
is150
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Originally Posted by Doublebase
Personally I've poured coolant right down into the bleeder port you are talking about...why not? Yeah I spilled a little, but I was doing a coolant change at the time anyway...it's not like things weren't a mess already. But I want to make it clear that I filled the reservoir up first, I just added coolant in the bleeder port to speed up the process of getting the air out. It worked fine.
Thanks. Is that with the heat on high (85) also?
Old 01-03-15, 02:25 PM
  #17  
davedan
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Had same problem with my 09 93000 miles water pump replaced under warranty had the same symptoms gurglling no heat at idle
Old 01-04-15, 08:11 AM
  #18  
roadfrog
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Originally Posted by is150
While the bleed screw on top of the rad hose is open and the engine is running but cold, where are you adding the coolent into? The bleed screw/ radiator cap/ or overfill?
Into the reservoir tank. Here is the proper procedure:

Make sure the AC is off. Loosen the vent plug and add coolant to the reservoir until it reaches the full line and and when no more fluid can be added, close the vent plug.

Before starting the engine to warm up the engine, turn the A/C switch OFF (Which you should have already done above).

While idling the engine for approximately 10 minutes, make sure the coolant remains at the FULL line by adding coolant as necessary.

After idling the engine for 10 minutes, add coolant until it reaches the the base of the reservoir's filler neck , (which is the lower edge of the inner wall of the filler neck). Don't mistake this for the fill line....two different things.

Close the radiator reservoir cap, and run the engine at 1500 to 2000 rpm for 5 minutes.

Stop the engine and wait until the coolant cools down to ambient temperature.

CAUTION: Do not remove the radiator reservoir cap while the engine and radiator are still hot. Pressurized, hot coolant and steam may be released and cause serious burns.

Check the coolant level.

If the coolant level is below the FULL line, add coolant until it reaches the FULL line.

Last edited by roadfrog; 01-04-15 at 12:24 PM.
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Old 01-04-15, 08:24 AM
  #19  
CJITTY
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Had same issue on my 600. I posted a couple weeks ago. My fix was simple coolant flush to get levels back to normal..problem solved
Old 01-04-15, 09:14 AM
  #20  
Doublebase
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Originally Posted by is150
Thanks. Is that with the heat on high (85) also?
I would advise the heat being on, but I happened to forget to do that when I did mine
Old 01-04-15, 11:05 AM
  #21  
roadfrog
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Originally Posted by Doublebase
I would advise the heat being on, but I happened to forget to do that when I did mine
Doesn't need to be though. good either way. BUT the AC must be off.
Old 01-04-15, 11:16 AM
  #22  
Nospinzone
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Roadfrog, thanks for posting all those procedures in post #18.
Old 01-06-15, 03:18 PM
  #23  
is150
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Followed the above how to and fixed the "rushing water" sound. Never heard it untill reading this thread which caused me to pay closer attention. Installed new air filters and still have a pcv valve to change. Thanks again.
Old 01-06-15, 07:48 PM
  #24  
roadfrog
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Originally Posted by is150
Followed the above how to and fixed the "rushing water" sound. Never heard it untill reading this thread which caused me to pay closer attention. Installed new air filters and still have a pcv valve to change. Thanks again.
Good to hear!!
Old 11-18-23, 01:44 PM
  #25  
Rob6656
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I hate to dig up an old thread, but I have a question regarding the no heat at idle. I have a 2014 460L (awd) UL and there is no heat in front or back at idle. Could it be caused by the same thing? All the cars mentioned in this thread are 08's. Once I start driving, everything is fine. I wasn't sure if this would apply to a '14 also?
Old 11-18-23, 02:53 PM
  #26  
Gerf
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That would apply to almost every car, there could be several reasons for low coolant levels but checking the reservoir should be your first step.
Old 11-18-23, 03:16 PM
  #27  
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I agree with GERF. The procedure listed above is the same for your car. Have you ever had the coolant drained and filled in the past 50k miles? No? It's past due. The shop can also find your leak. The system is "sealed". The black plastic cap is supposed to be air/fluid tight. No evaporation at all.
Old 11-19-23, 09:39 AM
  #28  
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Thank you so much for the help!
Old 11-20-23, 10:34 AM
  #29  
GeeYes300
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What about the valley pan gasket? I was smelling a slight coolant odor when driving around. I drove from SF Bay Area to Pasadena with no issues but was told the valley pan gasket might be the issue. Opinions?
Old 11-20-23, 10:43 AM
  #30  
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It's not easy to see/find, but, removing covers from engine bay and looking at valley area behind throttle body with good lighting may reveal pink residue. Also remove underside panels and inspect for pink stains to eliminate those places. Also the radiator nipple on driver side (hidden by covers) is another trouble spot. Don't guess without a visual inspection.
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