Mark Levinson Amp Problem
#1
Driver School Candidate
Thread Starter
Mark Levinson Amp Problem
Good Afternoon,
I just purchased a 2007 LS460L about three weeks ago and have been reading these forums - some great information here.
I just had my Mark Levinson stereo quit on me. Just like many symptoms I've read on here - sound and bluetooth doesn't work but all navigation function works.
I checked the 30 AMP fuse on the passenger side and it was blown. With the car off, as I placed a new fuse in, it immediately blew again. I haven't read any other amp problems that had this symptom. My car never had the annoying clicking noise that everyone else complained about.
I plan to call United Radio tomorrow to talk with them about repairing the amp and am hoping that they can shed some light. Anyone else have this problem where the fuse keeps popping?
Aaron
I just purchased a 2007 LS460L about three weeks ago and have been reading these forums - some great information here.
I just had my Mark Levinson stereo quit on me. Just like many symptoms I've read on here - sound and bluetooth doesn't work but all navigation function works.
I checked the 30 AMP fuse on the passenger side and it was blown. With the car off, as I placed a new fuse in, it immediately blew again. I haven't read any other amp problems that had this symptom. My car never had the annoying clicking noise that everyone else complained about.
I plan to call United Radio tomorrow to talk with them about repairing the amp and am hoping that they can shed some light. Anyone else have this problem where the fuse keeps popping?
Aaron
#2
Lexus Champion
Definitely a short. If the fuse keeps blowing. Just for curiosity sake unplug all the plugs on the amp an then put a new fuse in... see if it blows again. If not its the amp for sure
#3
Driver School Candidate
Thread Starter
Good call. I'll need to order new fuses. Apparently Toyota uses those weird square ones and the ones from the parts store don't fit right.
#4
Driver School Candidate
Thread Starter
So I just unplugged the amp and inserted a fuse and it didn't blow so it certainly seems like an amp problem. United Radio is now charging $725 to repair. I was pleasantly surprised to find that my local dealer, Valley Lexus in Modesto, charges $650 for a refurbished one with a warrant so I'll just go through them.
#7
Intermediate
Shout out from Fresno County!!!!
Hey this just happened to me, same exact blown fuse with no clicking or popping. How was the new amp installed? Did that fix the problem?
Hey this just happened to me, same exact blown fuse with no clicking or popping. How was the new amp installed? Did that fix the problem?
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#8
Instructor
With $25 for shipping and $42 tax, total was $642, and I rececived it in 3-4 days. Came with return shipping label for old amp, and I received a $200 credit when it was received and checked out to be in good enough condition for them to replace bad components. So net cost of $442 for the refurbbed amp. Amp running good and even seems like cleaner/stronger power as my old one was probably on its way out and not operating at 100%. Seller was great with communication and a few questions I had. Very professional and an excellent transaction overall.
For removal, I did not have to take out all of the trunk panels. Only the floor panel directly above the amp was removed to access it. I removed the plastic snap retainers for the side panel and carefully flexed it out of the way in order to acces the 3 amp mounting bolts (2 toward rear, 8mm I think and 1 toward front). The two at the rear were removed and the one to the right of these loosened to gain more movement of the amp. The one forward bolt is actually the bracket mount to the car and was removed still attached to the amp. Then, after the amp was removed from the car, the bracket was removed from the amp and later transferred to the refubbed unit.
I wish I would've remembered to take photos and documented better, but I think once you access the amp you'll find it pretty easy, with just a couple of sockets and a short extension required.The panel above the amp has a metal hold down bracket that rotates up, and there's a plastic cover that pops off to access the small bolt (10mm I think) that hold the panel to the trunk. The attached might be of help, good luck.
#9
Intermediate
Thanks very informative...
Has anyone used one of these amps?
https://www.google.com/search?q=Alpi...client=gws-wiz
there supposed to be plug and play with our cars...
Has anyone used one of these amps?
https://www.google.com/search?q=Alpi...client=gws-wiz
there supposed to be plug and play with our cars...
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steedls400 (08-13-24)
#10
Intermediate
Same reply from other thread maybe someone has experience...
Here's where we are at...
I took out amp and tried to use Multimeter to test to see if power was running through it...
Then I put the 30amp fuse back in the car with NO AMP - Not blown
Then I tested voltage on main power wire that's "downline" from 30amp fuse that keeps blowing 12volts
Then I thought hey, why don't I plug amp in one plug at a time and see if that's the problem, I plugged just the power wires in thinking if it was a crossed connection at the stereo later on down the line it wouldn't blow....and...IT BLEW with just power plugged into amp with no other plugs (speakers etc) plugged in.
Does this mean I have a bad or blown amp?
Thanks
Here's where we are at...
I took out amp and tried to use Multimeter to test to see if power was running through it...
Then I put the 30amp fuse back in the car with NO AMP - Not blown
Then I tested voltage on main power wire that's "downline" from 30amp fuse that keeps blowing 12volts
Then I thought hey, why don't I plug amp in one plug at a time and see if that's the problem, I plugged just the power wires in thinking if it was a crossed connection at the stereo later on down the line it wouldn't blow....and...IT BLEW with just power plugged into amp with no other plugs (speakers etc) plugged in.
Does this mean I have a bad or blown amp?
Thanks
#11
Instructor
Same reply from other thread maybe someone has experience...
Here's where we are at...
I took out amp and tried to use Multimeter to test to see if power was running through it...
Then I put the 30amp fuse back in the car with NO AMP - Not blown
Then I tested voltage on main power wire that's "downline" from 30amp fuse that keeps blowing 12volts
Then I thought hey, why don't I plug amp in one plug at a time and see if that's the problem, I plugged just the power wires in thinking if it was a crossed connection at the stereo later on down the line it wouldn't blow....and...IT BLEW with just power plugged into amp with no other plugs (speakers etc) plugged in.
Does this mean I have a bad or blown amp?
Thanks
Here's where we are at...
I took out amp and tried to use Multimeter to test to see if power was running through it...
Then I put the 30amp fuse back in the car with NO AMP - Not blown
Then I tested voltage on main power wire that's "downline" from 30amp fuse that keeps blowing 12volts
Then I thought hey, why don't I plug amp in one plug at a time and see if that's the problem, I plugged just the power wires in thinking if it was a crossed connection at the stereo later on down the line it wouldn't blow....and...IT BLEW with just power plugged into amp with no other plugs (speakers etc) plugged in.
Does this mean I have a bad or blown amp?
Thanks
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BlazeViper (03-21-22)
#12
Today I ordered an Amp from the Ebay supplier that lwphat66 did, HOWEVER, be aware that there are different production models that Lexus built. The part # on mine is 86280-0W480, which is also what Lexus told me per my VIN #. Not sure what difference this is between 86280-0W260 & 86280-0W480, but just wanted to bring it to the members attention. Mine is a 2008 LS460.
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swfla (06-23-22)
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