I just completed changing timing belt, water pump and idlers on my 2001 LS430. I used factory manual steps which were sometimes confusing and caused me to take much more time than I thought it should. I put together a detailed step by step combining what I used from the factory manual with what worked for me. YMMV . Hope it's not inappropriate to include:
Timing Belt Replacement – LS430 – probably GS430, LX470, Sequoia and other 8-cyl Toyota and Lexus
REMOVAL (does NOT include water pump)
1. DISCONNECT BATTERY NEGATIVE TERMINAL
2. REMOVE AIR CLEANER INLET NO. 1 – IT COVERS THE RADIATOR ACROSS THE FRONT OF THE ENGINE.
3. REMOVE MAIN ENGINE COVER (V-BANK COVER)
4. DRAIN ENGINE COOLANT – RADIATOR DRAIN ON DRIVER’S SIDE W/TUBE COMING DOWN AND A COUPLE OF DRAIN PLUGS ON ENGINE IF YOU WANT.
5. RAISE FRONT OF CAR ON EITHER SIDE TO MAKE EASIER TO WORK UNDER – JACK UNDER FRAME
6. REMOVE MAIN ENGINE UNDER-COVER.
7. DISCONNECT RADIATOR HOSES – UPPER HOSE AT BOTH ENDS, LOWER HOSE AT TOP.
8. DISCONNECT OIL COOLER HOSES AND STUFF HOSES AND RADIATOR TUBES W/EAR PLUGS
9. REMOVE COVER OF AIR CLEANER ASSY - REMOVE 2 SCREWS ON REAR OF COVER TO REMOVE ELECTRICAL AND TUBE ASSY.
10. REMOVE LOWER AIR CLEANER ASSEMBLY – 1 BOLT ON SIDE, 1 BOLT ON FRONT
11. REMOVE AIR INLET TUBE (4” DIAMETER) AT ENGINE END
12. REMOVE RADIATOR FAN PLUG AND TAKE CABLE OFF OF RETAINERS
13. REMOVE LEFT AND RIGHT UPPER RADIATOR RETAINER BRACKETS
14. LIFT RADIATOR & FAN ASSEMBLY UP AND OUT – CLEAN RADIATOR FINS AS NEEDED, GLUE ON FOAM PACKING AS NEEDED.
15. REMOVE SERPENTINE BELT – TURN TENSIONER BOLT COUNTERCLOCKWISE
16. REMOVE UPPER RIGHT (PASS. SIDE) TIMING BELT COVER. REMOVE CAP NUT, OPEN TUBING RETAINER, ETC.
17. REMOVE UPPER LEFT (DRIVER SIDE) TIMING BELT COVER.
a. Remove cap nut and disconnect water bypass pipe from the cover. Also disconnect at the passenger side end.
b. Disconnect the camshaft position sensor connector (2 wires) – pry the connector holder loose from the cover w/screwdriver
c. Remove the sensor wire from the clip and remove the wire grommet from the cover.
d. Remove the 4 bolts and remove the cover, passing the sensor connector through the hole in the cover. Keep the gasket with the cover.
18. Remove 2 bolts holding timing belt cover 2 – black plastic part with engine number on it.
19. Remove the tensioner assembly for the serpentine belt. (2 nuts and 1 bolt) Remove the small idler pulley to access one of the bolts. This also requires removing a bolt and 2 nuts from the alternator, which traps the tensioner. Hold the alternator and move it forward off it’s stud so that you can move the tensioner from behind and off the stud, then slide the alternator back on the stud.
20. Remove the serpentine belt idler pulley assembly (small idler you just removed and a larger smooth one are on the assembly. This requires either removing (2 tough Philips screws) or bending the sheet metal “wire holder” attached to or near the A/C compressor to free the end of the idler pulley assy near the A/C compressor.
21. Loosen the crankshaft bolt (22mm) – it’s a normal thread CCW to loosen – hit a few times with a hammer, then use an impact wrench. If that doesn’t work, put an 18 inch or so cheater pipe on a ½ inch breaker bar with tape to hold in place. Turn the crank so with the socket on the bolt, the end of the cheater is just touching the ground towards the driver’s side.
22. Temporarily reconnect the battery ground and hit the starter. Once should do it. Disconnect the battery ground.
23. Turn the crank clockwise with the bolt until the timing mark is at 0 and both camshaft timing marks are straight up (yellow paint on v at back of camshaft pulleys). Turn crank CW around to 0 again if camshaft marks aren’t straight up the first time. Now turn the crank CW about 50 degrees – a stable location for the cam shafts when you release the timing belt.
24. Use the impact wrench to loosen the bolt without rotating the crank (or only a tiny bit).
25. Remove the crankshaft damper (pulley) using a steering wheel puller or similar (Autozone loaner). Need 2ea 8mm 1.25 pitch X about 2 inches bolts to screw into the holes in the damper/pulley. The holes will be rusty, but you won’t need to screw them in far. You may want to still have the part-way out crankshaft bolt in place when you start pulling the damper.
26. Remove the timing belt cover around the crank. 4 bolts with the upper one recessed.
27. Remove the toothed crankshaft angle sensor plate (keyed to the crankshaft). Put a note on it which side is out or towards the front.
28. Carefully mark the existing timing belt at the camshaft timing marks on both camshaft pulleys with thin marks – maybe across the whole width of the belt. Make an arrow on the belt pointing “front” and an L next to the left hand mark and an R next to the right hand mark. On the right side of the crankshaft timing belt pulley make a narrow reference mark and make a corresponding mark on the belt. You will be transferring these marks exactly to the new belt.
29. Remove the 2 bolts (a little on one then a little on the other etc.) holding the timing belt tensioner (1+ inch diameter and 4 inches tall) located beneath the left (passenger side) timing belt idler pulley.
30. Remove the rubber boot from the top and inspect for leakage. If leaking replace; if not, replace the rubber boot with the side opening positioned directly between the bolt holes (front of car when installed). Using a very small Allen wrench, turn the piston so that its hole lines up with the hole in the boot. Fully depress the piston with a press or putting between a jack and a frame member of the car. Slip the small Allen wrench through the hole in the boot and through the hole in the piston pin to hold the piston retracted. Release the pressure from the press or jack and set aside for reinstallation.
31. Remove the timing belt.
32. Transfer the timing marks from the old belt to the new one, keeping the marks narrow. Also transfer the “front” arrow and the R and L. Compare the belts several times to make absolutely sure that the marks are in precisely the same locations.
33. This is the point at which you can remove the two timing belt idlers – the right one only a roller, the other a roller attached to the tensioner fixture. Takes a large Allen wrench to remove the pivot bolt to free the tensioner-idler assy. Inspect. Replacement optional, but inexpensive and easy while you’re in there.
1. To make belt installation easier you may want to turn the left (pass. side) pulley a few degrees clockwise and the right (driver’s side) camshaft pulley about ½ that distance clockwise.
2. Install the new timing belt taking care that your marks on the belt exactly match those on the 3 timing pulleys. After you have the belt on with marks lined up, do not turn the crank pulley until you have the tensioner reinstalled or the belt will slip one or more places and you’ll mess everything up.
3. Install the belt tensioner with the 2 bolts. Pull out the Allen wrench to release the piston.
4. Starting with 27. above, work backward and re-assemble everything, making sure that no hoses or connectors have been missed.
5. Refill the radiator very slowly with 50-50 mix of Toyota red coolant and distilled water. Burp the system by squeezing the two radiator hoses from time to and if the level goes down, add more coolant. When full, put on the radiator cap. Run the engine at about 2500rpm until hot with the heater temp turned to high. Let the engine cool and top off the radiator. Fill the coolant reservoir to the full mark. Check again after a couple of days of driving.
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What about the two cam seals? Did you change them out?
We change the seals out on my 93 SC 400.
We did my FIL 1999 LS 400 and couldn't/didn't have the right tool to change the cam seals. These seal heen known to develop leaks too like the water pump. So far the LS 400 has no problem yet, but my FIL doesn't drive that thing much. I guess Toyota later V8 got better seals.
I'll just bump this thread and post some pictures since it already has the step by step write-up. I also replaced the water pump. First picture shows all the new parts. Did the work for about 5 hrs. including cleaning up the parts as they go back on. I also used my toyota sst for loosening and torquing the crank pulley bolt.
Pictures are posted in order..
1992 Toyota Supra
MoTeC M820. Dry sump 2JZ. GTX4294R
844RWHP @ 26 psi on Race gas
2013 UW IS-F, FIGS LCA and links, Hotchkis sway bars, Ohlins Road & Track coilovers, RB 2-piece rotors, Advan RG-D's. OS Giken superlock LSD. Apexi Smart Throttle Controller.
2005 IS300. Silver. Black leather interior. LSD
Whoa!!! Thanks to Jim and JT2MA71 for the detailed write up and pictures.
I must say that documenting a DIY is much harder and time consuming than the actual process procedures-so props to the both of you
Wanted to bump this thread, I referred to it and a few others many times over the last weekend.
Thanks to jimdwright for the original post, the shop manual referenced CCW for the 50 degree move before removal and your step by step says CW, I believe it kicks either way you put it so as long as you get the belt marks (make sure you get a Toyota Part) and the timing marks all lined up before you release the tensioner you'll be fine, rotate the crank twice to make sure they all line up still if not release the belt and try it again. The belt marks will not line up after you rotate the crank, it is only for initial assembly.
Thanks to JT2MA71 for posting the pictures, I referred to them several times as well.
The only thing I really thought I was going to have an issue with was putting the crankshaft dampner back on and getting it torqued properly with out the Crankshaft SST. I talked with a couple service techs at Toyota and Lexus to find out how they did it and they both said they use their impact on the Crankshaft bolt to tighten, one of them said it's fine just like that, the other said use and impact and some red loctite. Being paranoid about the bolt coming loose and causing non standard stress on the end of the crank and the possibility of cracking/breaking the end of the crank, I decided to use the Red and an impact, bottomed out with red should be just fine.
Complete job done with all components including
Timing Belt Tensioner
Timing Belt Tensioner Pulley
Timing Belt Idler Pulley
Thermostat and Gasket
Don't forget the -
Blue Loctite for the Tensioner Pulley Bolt
O-Ring for the T-Stat
O-Ring for the back of the water pump small one in the pic of parts above
O-Ring for the water inlet housing large one in the pic above
Toyota Gasket Seal maker stuff for the housing and pump contact point
Now all I have to do is kick back and enjoy the fact that I just saved a boatload of money, parts are expensive but for the cost of getting just the belt changed at an independent I was able to do everything and then some, plus the piece of mind is priceless for the next 90k miles.
Also I sourced all my parts from a local Toyota dealer, they had everything in stock and I saved a truckload of cash just in parts, you'll be able to source it cheaper if you buy online if you plan your time right in getting parts, I needed them quicker then they could ship so I paid more. OEM doesn't necessarily mean Toyota or Lexus parts, keep that in mind if ordering online.
Wow... great writeup guys, but this is not one DIY I would even attempt at home now. I took auto repair in HS and even with the right equipment it would take one of us about 2.5 hours to change a belt and pump. I figure nowadays at home, it would take me atleast 3 hours, probably four. I work five days a week, I can't use up 4 hours (probably 5 including cleaning up and packing) of weekend time doing something like this. I cap my weekend DIY at 2 hours, tops 3 hours all inclusive start to stop.
Anyway great writeup, I might use it in twenty years when I'm retired and have extra time...
'10 MDX blk/blk
'04 LS430 CL blk/blk (I'm on cloud 9)
'99 RX green/beige - (still smashing, but it's the beater)
Wow, I am so envious of the mechanical skills of folks on this board.
2009 Ford F-150 King Ranch
2004 Lexus LS430 Custom Lux w/Smart Access - SOLD in 2009
2005 Honda Odyssey Touring R&N
2001 Acura MDX Touring Navigation - SOLD in 2005
1998 Lexus GS300 - SOLD in 2004
I just did this service too. It wasn't easy. I didn't think it would be like chaning plugs, but as long as you follow the directions, and have ALL the tools, you can do it. I've done fuel pumps, front suspension stuff, and tons of work on motorcycles. This was definately the most involved service I;ve ever done. The fact that it's done now, and I have this confidence makes it all worth while. Saving $1500-$1700 doesn't hurt either.
Fantastic!!!! I know this is in my future so kudos!!!
I've done this on a Nissan, a Toyota and a Honda, but those were all front wheel drive. The LS430 may actually be easier because it looks like there is plenty of working room once the radiator is removed.