LS won't start - changed battery and still won't start
11-20-15, 10:05 AM
#16
The first thing you should do is remove the battery from the car and have it tested and charged by a battery professional.
11-20-15, 10:34 AM
#17
Driver School Candidate
Check battery first.... Full charge? If yes then it's 100% it's the starter.... Mine did same thing...6 hour job...
About power steering....hmm that's new... Good luck!
About power steering....hmm that's new... Good luck!
11-20-15, 12:41 PM
#18
Driver School Candidate
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The previous owner of my LS had the exact same issue, the week before I went to purchase the LS. Replaced the battery and... nothing.
We had it towed to the local Toyota dealership and was told by the technician that occasionally the LS needs to go through a "reset" procedure for the car. They performed said reset procedure for $100 and it worked . t's been a month with zero issues. If your battery, starter, and alternator check out, then I would head to the local Toyota or Lexus dealership.
Good luck!!
We had it towed to the local Toyota dealership and was told by the technician that occasionally the LS needs to go through a "reset" procedure for the car. They performed said reset procedure for $100 and it worked . t's been a month with zero issues. If your battery, starter, and alternator check out, then I would head to the local Toyota or Lexus dealership.
Good luck!!
11-23-15, 07:58 AM
#19
These cars do not need an "occasional reset" unless the battery becomes discharged and the car is jump-started or the battery is recharged in-place, and then only occasionally if the operation is not normal after the jumpstart or recharge.
"Resetting" these cars consist of disconnecting the negative terminal of the battery for a few minutes - the battery needs to be fully charged when doing this step.
If you are having trouble with your battery becoming discharged, and the battery is not defective, then you should look into the possibility of a defective doorjamb switch.
"Resetting" these cars consist of disconnecting the negative terminal of the battery for a few minutes - the battery needs to be fully charged when doing this step.
If you are having trouble with your battery becoming discharged, and the battery is not defective, then you should look into the possibility of a defective doorjamb switch.
12-19-15, 05:55 AM
#20
Pole Position
Don't mean to dig up an old thread, but I ran into this issue a few weeks ago...went to start my car after work on a cold day...steering wheel comes out...everything seems normal, but CLICK, no start. Tried it a few times, same deal.
I jumped it and boom, started right up. Yet it didn't feel like a battery situation and my battery was only two years old. Drove the car 60 miles or so and the problem seemed solved - yet not feeling confident I checked the battery the next day with a hand held starter, alternator and battery tester....the battery passed THAT inspection. Here's the thing, these hand held battery testers that shops use are not accurate, they are very easy on batteries. What I did was I tested it with the older method - the carbon pile test - and sure enough it failed instantly. Bad battery.
Replaced battery and it's been fine for the roughly 3k miles I've driven it since.
It's no wonder these cars go through batteries fast in colder climates, between the telescoping steering wheel, self closing doors, alarm, electric motor driven trunk, electric ebrake system, all the lighting...the car even has some sort of electric motor that kicks in in the engine compartment (what it is I'm not sure, I think it's the brake actuator...at least it sounds like it).
So keep an eye on your battery in these cars, it appears if you don't have the necessary current, the car won't even attempt to crank.
I jumped it and boom, started right up. Yet it didn't feel like a battery situation and my battery was only two years old. Drove the car 60 miles or so and the problem seemed solved - yet not feeling confident I checked the battery the next day with a hand held starter, alternator and battery tester....the battery passed THAT inspection. Here's the thing, these hand held battery testers that shops use are not accurate, they are very easy on batteries. What I did was I tested it with the older method - the carbon pile test - and sure enough it failed instantly. Bad battery.
Replaced battery and it's been fine for the roughly 3k miles I've driven it since.
It's no wonder these cars go through batteries fast in colder climates, between the telescoping steering wheel, self closing doors, alarm, electric motor driven trunk, electric ebrake system, all the lighting...the car even has some sort of electric motor that kicks in in the engine compartment (what it is I'm not sure, I think it's the brake actuator...at least it sounds like it).
So keep an eye on your battery in these cars, it appears if you don't have the necessary current, the car won't even attempt to crank.
12-19-15, 03:54 PM
#21
Lexus Test Driver
My Acura (and the Acura RL in general) was littered with battery problems; they are very sensitive to batteries.
Any battery on its last leg would often force that car to do strange things and throw seemingly random indicator lights and codes. Go to Acurazine's forum and you can see that most people will suggest changing the battery to a myriad of oddball issues that crop up there and sure enough it usually fixes it.
One thing I've learned from this as a result of owning that car for ten years is that batteries just aren't nearly as good or reliable as they use to be.
The first time I encountered this problem was four years into ownership on a brand new car. Changed the battery with the most expensive Autozone battery I could find and a year and half later the same problem started happening. Since my battery was so new, I thought for sure it was something else and went nuts trying to figure it out.
Just for curiousity's sake, I tested voltage on the battery and it seemed fine. Ended up taking it to the dealership and sadly the battery was indeed toast, which my voltage test couldn't detect.
I had them put in a factory battery and sure enough, they last about four years while I'm hesitant to try anything else.
Any battery on its last leg would often force that car to do strange things and throw seemingly random indicator lights and codes. Go to Acurazine's forum and you can see that most people will suggest changing the battery to a myriad of oddball issues that crop up there and sure enough it usually fixes it.
One thing I've learned from this as a result of owning that car for ten years is that batteries just aren't nearly as good or reliable as they use to be.
The first time I encountered this problem was four years into ownership on a brand new car. Changed the battery with the most expensive Autozone battery I could find and a year and half later the same problem started happening. Since my battery was so new, I thought for sure it was something else and went nuts trying to figure it out.
Just for curiousity's sake, I tested voltage on the battery and it seemed fine. Ended up taking it to the dealership and sadly the battery was indeed toast, which my voltage test couldn't detect.
I had them put in a factory battery and sure enough, they last about four years while I'm hesitant to try anything else.
12-19-15, 05:22 PM
#22
For me, a "battery hydrometer" remains the gold standard for evaluating batteries. Of course you must be very careful not to get even a drop of the battery electrolyte on your car's painted surfaces. You need a basic understanding of batteries to use these devices effectively. You can use the hydrometer to measure the State Of Charge for each cell. As the battery ages the fully charged SOC becomes a good indicator of the battery's remaining life.
Here is an example of a moderately priced battery hydrometer:
Here is an example of a moderately priced battery hydrometer:
12-19-15, 07:45 PM
#23
Pole Position
For me, a "battery hydrometer" remains the gold standard for evaluating batteries. Of course you must be very careful not to get even a drop of the battery electrolyte on your car's painted surfaces. You need a basic understanding of batteries to use these devices effectively. You can use the hydrometer to measure the State Of Charge for each cell. As the battery ages the fully charged SOC becomes a good indicator of the battery's remaining life.
Here is an example of a moderately priced battery hydrometer: Amazon.com: OTC 4619 Professional Battery Hydrometer: Automotive
Here is an example of a moderately priced battery hydrometer: Amazon.com: OTC 4619 Professional Battery Hydrometer: Automotive
12-20-15, 03:56 PM
#24
Car batteries fall into 3 categories: AGM, Gel Cell and Flooded Cell.
AGM and Gel Cell batteries are sealed and usually there is no provision to allow for testing with a hydrometer. They are intended for applications where spillage and/or outgassing would not be acceptable. For most automobile applications the cost of these batteries would not be justifiable.
The Flooded Cell type batteries are used in most automobile applications.
"Maintenance Free" is a term that is used for flooded cell batteries that have been designed to minimize the loss of electrolyte. But, these batteries almost always have removable cell covers that allow them to be tested with a hydrometer. The cell covers appear to be part of the battery case but a little lifting and rocking, or pry from a screwdriver tip, will let you remove them.
Some owners are using sealed batteries as replacements for their OEM flooded cell batteries, but I have not seen any in new cars so far. When I go to Costco and Sam's Club their car batteries that are on display seem to be the flooded cell variety.
AGM and Gel Cell batteries are sealed and usually there is no provision to allow for testing with a hydrometer. They are intended for applications where spillage and/or outgassing would not be acceptable. For most automobile applications the cost of these batteries would not be justifiable.
The Flooded Cell type batteries are used in most automobile applications.
"Maintenance Free" is a term that is used for flooded cell batteries that have been designed to minimize the loss of electrolyte. But, these batteries almost always have removable cell covers that allow them to be tested with a hydrometer. The cell covers appear to be part of the battery case but a little lifting and rocking, or pry from a screwdriver tip, will let you remove them.
Some owners are using sealed batteries as replacements for their OEM flooded cell batteries, but I have not seen any in new cars so far. When I go to Costco and Sam's Club their car batteries that are on display seem to be the flooded cell variety.
01-12-16, 10:28 AM
#25
Driver School Candidate
Any luck?
Hello - about 18 months ago my 2008 LS 460 wouldn't start after numerous attempts and displayed an error saying "Check VSC...". While waiting for the tow truck, I hit the start again randomly and bam! car started up. The next morning, the car started up great again so I drove it to the dealership and told them about everything that happen. They said it was probably a bad battery. They changed out the battery (it was 26 months old) and said everything would be fine. A couple weeks later the car would jump and lurch during slow speed accelerations so brought back in. Nothing could be replicated so took car home. Car kept acting up and went to another dealership. After having the car for 3 days the mechanic replicated the issue and said a chip needed to be reset. After that....LS was back to great self.
Then today, car won't start and get "Check VSC..." error message. It's Sunday afternoon, so just called auto parts store and get new battery. Put new battery in and "Check VSC...." error message gone, BUT car still won't start.
When push button, hear one click and then nothing. All the lights come on, AC can blow, stereo can play, but car just sits there. Checked the battery cables for corrosion and while there was a little on the old battery the cables look good.
Is there any type of reset I can do that needs to happen after changing the battery or anything like a Windows reboot that can happen? I get the sense this is all computer issues and not actually anything mechanical.
My LS only has 87k miles and has followed all the maintenance recommended so I'd really like to break 15 years or 200k miles before saying goodbye.
Have you had any luck? I am having literally the same exact problem on my 08 GS 350. We (Lexus mechanic friend) bypassed the starter relay to check the starter. The car rolls and rolls it won't kick over which leads me to believe the starter is good if it turns right?? Anyway I'm hoping you found a lasting solution...
01-12-16, 10:32 AM
#26
Driver School Candidate
Any luck?
Hey Blue,
Have you had any luck? I am having literally the same exact problem on my 08 GS 350. We (Lexus mechanic friend) bypassed the starter relay to check the starter. The car rolls and rolls it won't kick over which leads me to believe the starter is good if it turns right?? Anyway I'm hoping you found a lasting solution...
Hello - about 18 months ago my 2008 LS 460 wouldn't start after numerous attempts and displayed an error saying "Check VSC...". While waiting for the tow truck, I hit the start again randomly and bam! car started up.
The next morning, the car started up great again so I drove it to the dealership and told them about everything that happen. They said it was probably a bad battery. They changed out the battery (it was 26 months old) and said everything would be fine. A couple weeks later the car would jump and lurch during slow speed accelerations so brought back in. Nothing could be replicated so took car home. Car kept acting up and went to another dealership. After having the car for 3 days the mechanic replicated the issue and said a chip needed to be reset. After that....LS was back to great self.
Then today, car won't start and get "Check VSC..." error message. It's Sunday afternoon, so just called auto parts store and get new battery. Put new battery in and "Check VSC...." error message gone, BUT car still won't start.
When push button, hear one click and then nothing. All the lights come on, AC can blow, stereo can play, but car just sits there. Checked the battery cables for corrosion and while there was a little on the old battery the cables look good.
Is there any type of reset I can do that needs to happen after changing the battery or anything like a Windows reboot that can happen? I get the sense this is all computer issues and not actually anything mechanical.
My LS only has 87k miles and has followed all the maintenance recommended so I'd really like to break 15 years or 200k miles before saying goodbye.
Have you had any luck? I am having literally the same exact problem on my 08 GS 350. We (Lexus mechanic friend) bypassed the starter relay to check the starter. The car rolls and rolls it won't kick over which leads me to believe the starter is good if it turns right?? Anyway I'm hoping you found a lasting solution...
Hello - about 18 months ago my 2008 LS 460 wouldn't start after numerous attempts and displayed an error saying "Check VSC...". While waiting for the tow truck, I hit the start again randomly and bam! car started up. The next morning, the car started up great again so I drove it to the dealership and told them about everything that happen. They said it was probably a bad battery. They changed out the battery (it was 26 months old) and said everything would be fine. A couple weeks later the car would jump and lurch during slow speed accelerations so brought back in. Nothing could be replicated so took car home. Car kept acting up and went to another dealership. After having the car for 3 days the mechanic replicated the issue and said a chip needed to be reset. After that....LS was back to great self.
Then today, car won't start and get "Check VSC..." error message. It's Sunday afternoon, so just called auto parts store and get new battery. Put new battery in and "Check VSC...." error message gone, BUT car still won't start.
When push button, hear one click and then nothing. All the lights come on, AC can blow, stereo can play, but car just sits there. Checked the battery cables for corrosion and while there was a little on the old battery the cables look good.
Is there any type of reset I can do that needs to happen after changing the battery or anything like a Windows reboot that can happen? I get the sense this is all computer issues and not actually anything mechanical.
My LS only has 87k miles and has followed all the maintenance recommended so I'd really like to break 15 years or 200k miles before saying goodbye.
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