Changing out brake rotors and new pads - Front and back
#16
Lead Lap
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Two things may be relevant here:
1. Brakes are lasting MUCH longer now than they used to - not unusual to get 100,000 mile out of the original set. As such, by then, the piston seals may be getting pretty iffy, so it may not be a bad idea to change them (although the dealers didn't do that on my BMW, which also have long-lived brakes and require both the rotors and pads to be changed at the same time, or my Lexus vehicles when I've had the brakes done).
2. Unless you have added (topped up) brake fluid over the life of the brakes, you shouldn't overflow the reservoir when compressing the pistons back into the caliper. But the turkey baster would be good to have on hand after each wheel is done.
1. Brakes are lasting MUCH longer now than they used to - not unusual to get 100,000 mile out of the original set. As such, by then, the piston seals may be getting pretty iffy, so it may not be a bad idea to change them (although the dealers didn't do that on my BMW, which also have long-lived brakes and require both the rotors and pads to be changed at the same time, or my Lexus vehicles when I've had the brakes done).
2. Unless you have added (topped up) brake fluid over the life of the brakes, you shouldn't overflow the reservoir when compressing the pistons back into the caliper. But the turkey baster would be good to have on hand after each wheel is done.
#17
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Two things may be relevant here:
1. Brakes are lasting MUCH longer now than they used to - not unusual to get 100,000 mile out of the original set. As such, by then, the piston seals may be getting pretty iffy, so it may not be a bad idea to change them (although the dealers didn't do that on my BMW, which also have long-lived brakes and require both the rotors and pads to be changed at the same time, or my Lexus vehicles when I've had the brakes done).
2. Unless you have added (topped up) brake fluid over the life of the brakes, you shouldn't overflow the reservoir when compressing the pistons back into the caliper. But the turkey baster would be good to have on hand after each wheel is done.
1. Brakes are lasting MUCH longer now than they used to - not unusual to get 100,000 mile out of the original set. As such, by then, the piston seals may be getting pretty iffy, so it may not be a bad idea to change them (although the dealers didn't do that on my BMW, which also have long-lived brakes and require both the rotors and pads to be changed at the same time, or my Lexus vehicles when I've had the brakes done).
2. Unless you have added (topped up) brake fluid over the life of the brakes, you shouldn't overflow the reservoir when compressing the pistons back into the caliper. But the turkey baster would be good to have on hand after each wheel is done.
First let me say thanks for your response.
Questions:
What would be a symptom of iffy pistons? How can I tell if they need to be changed?
Currently I have 66,000 miles on my 460L.
Not really sure of the history on these breaks.
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Should I disconnect the battery cables before I start pulling pads and rotors?
If I do, will the computers go crazy when I re-connect and turn on the ignition?
-DzDee
If I do, will the computers go crazy when I re-connect and turn on the ignition?
-DzDee
#19
Lexus Fanatic
Questions:
What would be a symptom of iffy pistons? How can I tell if they need to be changed?
Currently I have 66,000 miles on my 460L.
Not really sure of the history on these breaks.
What would be a symptom of iffy pistons? How can I tell if they need to be changed?
Currently I have 66,000 miles on my 460L.
Not really sure of the history on these breaks.
Should I disconnect the battery cables before I start pulling pads and rotors?
If I do, will the computers go crazy when I re-connect and turn on the ignition?
If I do, will the computers go crazy when I re-connect and turn on the ignition?
#20
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The most obvious indicators of failing calipers is a tendency of your car to pull to one side, especially when braking. Burning smells and high heat emitted from the caliper are also symptoms. As a result of that heat, often your rotors will develop high spot deposits on the, causing the shuddering you may feel when braking.
Absolutely no need to disconnect the battery!
Absolutely no need to disconnect the battery!
Chris I think I need to do the calipers then because that's what I'm feeling "shuddering".
That means Ill need to do the bleeding huh? This job just went into OMG land.
But I'm up for it!
Any tips tricks on the bleeding?
Thanks for your help.... Greatly appreciated
#21
Lexus Fanatic
Based on you level of DIY ability, I would take this to a nearby brake shop and have them do an assessment/estimate for you. This can cost anywhere from free to 25 bucks. Then when they hand you the estimate, say, "thank you, I need to talk to my wife about this, I'll call you later for an appt". Then walk away, go to Autozone and purchase yourself the parts ya need and go from there.....with a little help from us here at CL !
Replacing the rotors is ridiculously easy.
#23
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NOO!! No....you likely need to replace your rotors. When the rotors warp or build up deposits, this will feel like the steering wheel is shaking in your hand. The LS's are notorious for warping their stock rotors. I replaced mine because of shudder, with quality aftermarket ones, two months ago and the shudder is gone and she brakes beautiful now.
Based on you level of DIY ability, I would take this to a nearby brake shop and have them do an assessment/estimate for you. This can cost anywhere from free to 25 bucks. Then when they hand you the estimate, say, "thank you, I need to talk to my wife about this, I'll call you later for an appt". Then walk away, go to Autozone and purchase yourself the parts ya need and go from there.....with a little help from us here at CL !
Replacing the rotors is ridiculously easy.
Based on you level of DIY ability, I would take this to a nearby brake shop and have them do an assessment/estimate for you. This can cost anywhere from free to 25 bucks. Then when they hand you the estimate, say, "thank you, I need to talk to my wife about this, I'll call you later for an appt". Then walk away, go to Autozone and purchase yourself the parts ya need and go from there.....with a little help from us here at CL !
Replacing the rotors is ridiculously easy.
I'm pretty comfortable doing my own brake/rotor jobs. I've just been searching and reading this forum too much and read alot of scary things about computers and actuators etc.
Made me think that I needed to take it to the stealership or brake shop.
If you're telling me it's no different than a normal everyday Camry or Avalon... Then I ain't skirrrd... LOL
Thanks Man... I'm good.
I'll let you guys know how it goes with some befores and afters.
Thanks again!!!!
Thanks for the advice.
I have everything I need from the TIS Techstream to the pages from the workshop manual if any issues pop up.
#24
You may not NEED to disconnect the battery, but, if you have read the tech docs detailing the brake job procedure, then you should have seen the following items:
and step two on the list
So I'd probably follow the recommendation to disconnect the battery when doing the brakes.
Cheers,
Chuck
NOTE: While the battery is connected, even if the engine switch is off, the brake
control system activates when the brake pedal is depressed or the door
courtesy switch turns on. Therefore during servicing of the brake system
components, do not operate the brake pedal and open/close the doors while the
battery is connected.
control system activates when the brake pedal is depressed or the door
courtesy switch turns on. Therefore during servicing of the brake system
components, do not operate the brake pedal and open/close the doors while the
battery is connected.
2. DISCONNECT CABLE FROM NEGATIVE BATTERY TERMINAL
CAUTION: Wait at least 90 seconds after disconnecting the cable from the
negative (-) battery terminal to prevent airbag and seat belt
pretensioner activation.
NOTE: After the engine switch is turned off, the HDD navigation system requires
approximately 6 minutes to record various types of memory and settings.
As a result, after turning the engine switch off, wait 6 minutes or more
before disconnecting the cable from the negative (-) battery terminal.
CAUTION: Wait at least 90 seconds after disconnecting the cable from the
negative (-) battery terminal to prevent airbag and seat belt
pretensioner activation.
NOTE: After the engine switch is turned off, the HDD navigation system requires
approximately 6 minutes to record various types of memory and settings.
As a result, after turning the engine switch off, wait 6 minutes or more
before disconnecting the cable from the negative (-) battery terminal.
Cheers,
Chuck
#25
This how I do it;
1.Pull your car to the garage or drive way
2. Release the parking brake and or auto braking
3. Go get a smoke or beer; if not drink milk but make sure you leave your key fob inside the house
4. Jack the LS up and begin the procedures.
Important note: DO NOT OPEN ANY DOOR WHILE DOING THIS PROCEDURE!
1.Pull your car to the garage or drive way
2. Release the parking brake and or auto braking
3. Go get a smoke or beer; if not drink milk but make sure you leave your key fob inside the house
4. Jack the LS up and begin the procedures.
Important note: DO NOT OPEN ANY DOOR WHILE DOING THIS PROCEDURE!
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