username32

I finished resealing the engine and transmission oil pans, the trans was easy as i let the car sit for 3 days with a completely drained ATF so most of the dripping was already done. Taking the pan off without messing it up was a different story. I had to go find be a nice putty knife and harbor freight for the job, finding a starting point was also hard to deal with as there isnt alot of space to work around. Once i got the pan off i stripped all the old FIPG off with a wire brush attached to a drill. That was fast n easy. I hated the fact my engine and trans weeped oil and was making a mess under my car.

The engine oil pan was a pain so get those bolts off by the cross member, also once the FIPG was on, it was hard to maneuver without smearing or bumping into something around the strainer.









Here is my new radiator installed, i opted for the Denso one with Tow Package because of its sheer size, 14mm OEM core vs the 26mm w/ tow pkg.

$75 @ partsgeek cant beat the price and quality Denso brand.
OEM 14mm one below:



Denso 26mm core w/ tow pkg

username32

I also replaced the motor & transmission mounts, they weren't broken or leaking but it idled shaky so i replaced them, who knew they sag this much after 13 years. Now my LS idles smooth as glass.

BradTank

Do you have any tips on the motor mounts? I did the rear transmission mount, it was an easy job that made a big difference, but haven't gotten around to doing the fronts.

I would love it if someone did a write up DIY with photos.

username32

I had to unbolt the lower cross member and drop it a little to get clearance, and disconnect the steering shaft (make sure you mark it and DO NOT turn the wheel unless a new spiral cable is what you want to buy. The bolts are a pain in the *** to get to on the block side.

username32

OK I let my LS warm up and let idle for 30 mins. The needle doesn't even get close to where it used to go. It sits right at the lower line below half when it used to sit just a hair above the half mark. So far in happy.