Brake pads and rotors...anyone have aftermarket?
#4
Driver School Candidate
New Pads, Rotors and Lines
Can't speak for my LS 430 (just got it & haven't changed anything yet), but for my LS 400 I put PosiQuiet Ceramic in the front and PosiQuiet Semi-metalic in the back with cross-drilled and slotted rotors all around from http://r1concepts.com/ in addition to stainless steel lines all around.
WOW what a difference!!! Braking is much more progressive and controlled. Just a little bit of noise, but not really noticeable.
I wouldn't put the Semi-metalic next time though, they seem to create a lot more brake dust.
I plan on doing the same upgrade for my LS430.
WOW what a difference!!! Braking is much more progressive and controlled. Just a little bit of noise, but not really noticeable.
I wouldn't put the Semi-metalic next time though, they seem to create a lot more brake dust.
I plan on doing the same upgrade for my LS430.
#6
So when you shop for one, keep the working temperatures of the new pads in mind. Most brand will provide this information. The CC-R doesn't start to be effective until 150F, so anything less than that, say stop and go traffic you're screwed, may rear-end people here and there.
So stay away from racing pads unless you always take it to the track.
Check out these ENDLESS street pads here ,
Super Street M-Sport http://endlessusa.com/product.php?c=brakepad&p=1 $410 for a set of four.
Super Street S-Sport http://endlessusa.com/product.php?c=brakepad&p=19 $340 for a set of four.
Last edited by lexusthai; 04-16-08 at 06:48 AM.
#7
thanks for that info!
i was looking into the Axxis Deluxe Plus over the Axxis Ultimate...since i dont really push the LS that hard, and want more significant braking with 20" wheels...
havent found a decent set of rotors yet...i know the factory LS430 rotors eat brake pads faster than any other lexus model
you guys think those R1 rotors are fine? i dont really want another OEM factory rotor...wanna give the brakes a better look
i was looking into the Axxis Deluxe Plus over the Axxis Ultimate...since i dont really push the LS that hard, and want more significant braking with 20" wheels...
havent found a decent set of rotors yet...i know the factory LS430 rotors eat brake pads faster than any other lexus model
you guys think those R1 rotors are fine? i dont really want another OEM factory rotor...wanna give the brakes a better look
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#8
So when you shop for one, keep the working temperatures of the new pads in mind. Most brand will provide this information. The CC-R doesn't start to be effective until 150F, so anything less than that, say stop and go traffic you're screwed, may rear-end people here and .
#9
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replaced rotors with drillled and slotted plus ss lines
Hi I replaced my ls430 rotors with drillled and slotted ones that I got on ebay for $200 for all 4 about 15k ago. Car had 75k at the time. Used some high end pads from tire rack $50 for the front and rears $35from local parts store. With stainless steal lines all around $150 the brakes where a big improvement for $435. However the drilled and slotted rotors like to eat pads. I will only get about 20k out of the pads. Plan to try ceramic ones next time around. It is important to replace them before the sensor gets destroyed. One sensor cost more than a set of pads.Lexus like other car makers job lots of parts out and brakes are one of them. Unfortunately I haven't found the sensors yet. On my former 91 Q45 the sensors were available at autozone, as part of the pads, just had to solder the wires. Hopefully they will do the same with lexus. The sensor activates when the line is broken when the sensor rubs against the rotor, nothing complex. The market place is loaded with brake parts at reasonable prices, try ebay. These rotor probably come out of the same factory as the high end costly ones do. Do you think a Chinese factory with a contract to produce costly rotors is going to stop manufacturing once there quota is meet. They just keep on making this stuff and market it under different brands. That is how a lot of marketers get new car parts and sell them on ebay. Just read the sellers ratings to see if previous buyers have been satisfied with the parts.
#10
Magnum Rotors
I have to agree. I know everyone has an opinion, so I will just share from my own experience... I purchased a set of cross drilled rotors from Magnum Brakes. You can click here to get some details and who sells them...
http://www.magnumbrakes.com/rotors.html I kept the factory calipers and just had them professionally painted. I also upgraded to Akebono pads form Tire Rack. Unless you race your LS on the track (circle track not straight track) I would stay away from the slotted rotors. They do shave your pads and will eat them up pretty quick. (I'm sure most of you already know that, but just in case...) The slotted rotors look great and I get a lot of compliments from everyone. Hope this helps...
http://www.magnumbrakes.com/rotors.html I kept the factory calipers and just had them professionally painted. I also upgraded to Akebono pads form Tire Rack. Unless you race your LS on the track (circle track not straight track) I would stay away from the slotted rotors. They do shave your pads and will eat them up pretty quick. (I'm sure most of you already know that, but just in case...) The slotted rotors look great and I get a lot of compliments from everyone. Hope this helps...
#12
Cross Drilled vs Slotted
My last car was a 2000 Cadillac STS, completely modified and faster than you can imagine. (I'm still a HUGE fan of the Northstar Engine) Way too many mods to list so I will just refer to the brake mods. Initially I purchased some Baer cross/slotted and it ate up pads like I eat up tacos! (Non-stop that is!) Of course, I wasn't as informed as I am now. After much research, I realized that the slots on the rotors were basically acting like razors and slicing the pads every time you stopped. Of course the braking was phenomenal but not very practical for daily driving. I ended up switching to the cross drilled rotors and my pads lasted about 50% longer than before. Mercedes, Porsche, Ferrari, all use cross drilled rotors as OEM equipment for good reason. They increase the surface area, aid in brake cooling and improve performance without shaving your pads too fast. Now if you do race your vehicle on a regular basis you do want the slotted rotors because they will "bite" alot harder than the cross drilled rotors. Another big disadvantage is the dust... slotted rotors typically create more dust because they shave the pad down every time you hit the brakes. However, if you're vehicle is a daily driver and you're just looking for improved performance, great looks, and you don't race on a competition level then cross drilled is definitely the way to go.
#14
My last car was a 2000 Cadillac STS, completely modified and faster than you can imagine. (I'm still a HUGE fan of the Northstar Engine) Way too many mods to list so I will just refer to the brake mods. Initially I purchased some Baer cross/slotted and it ate up pads like I eat up tacos! (Non-stop that is!) Of course, I wasn't as informed as I am now. After much research, I realized that the slots on the rotors were basically acting like razors and slicing the pads every time you stopped. Of course the braking was phenomenal but not very practical for daily driving. I ended up switching to the cross drilled rotors and my pads lasted about 50% longer than before. Mercedes, Porsche, Ferrari, all use cross drilled rotors as OEM equipment for good reason. They increase the surface area, aid in brake cooling and improve performance without shaving your pads too fast. Now if you do race your vehicle on a regular basis you do want the slotted rotors because they will "bite" alot harder than the cross drilled rotors. Another big disadvantage is the dust... slotted rotors typically create more dust because they shave the pad down every time you hit the brakes. However, if you're vehicle is a daily driver and you're just looking for improved performance, great looks, and you don't race on a competition level then cross drilled is definitely the way to go.
#15
Zinc Plating, "Cooling" Surface Area
First, in response to the Zinc plating, yes it does aid in minimizing corrosion. Although it's better than a rotor that's not coated, it's not your best choice. Nickel Cadmium coating and Cryogenically treated rotors are going to be your best bet if you are willing to spend the money. The NiCad coating stays fairly shiny and is much more resisitant to the corrosive abuse of water, road grime, etc. The Cryogenic treatment will greatly reduce the risk of warping and stressing your rotors and will also maintain the structural integrity of the metal. You would think that since the rotors are made out of metal that they would last infinitely but they are usually under a lot of stress from the constant fluctuation of heat and cold that occurs under normal driving conditions. (Not to mention what it will go through when you are driving hard.) Even something as simple as having the wheel bolts overtightened can cause undue stress or warping in the metal. (Warping of the rotor is why rotors are "turned down" or "resurfaced" when you have a brake job done.) Best of all, the NiCad plating will keep your rotors looking nice if you have the kind of wheels that will showcase your brake setup.
Second, about the surface area... I'm actually referring to the "cooling" surface area of the rotor. A professionally manufactured cross drilled rotor is made to utilize the vent ribs (you will see them when you look at the rotors edge, they join the inside and outside surfaces together) to force air in between the inside and outside of the rotor and through the cross drilled holes, that is how the cooling area is maximized. The holes actually force air in between the rotor/pad contact area which is where the most heat is generated. (More cooling surface area) If you are driving an LS430 you also have air ducts vented in from the front air dam and in through the wheel wells that are directed at your rotors to increase the induction of cool air. Coupled with a nice set of cross drilled rotors your brakes should operate at about 250 degrees cooler. That will lengthen the life expectancy of your rotors. In comparison to the OEM rotors you will still have the air induction coming across your rotors but you will not have the vents forcing air in between the pad/rotor contact area because they are not equipped with the cross drilled rotors.
One last note, not all cross drilled rotors are functional. I have seen several models with some pretty fancy patterns (I'll call them "Show Rotors") and I have even seen some aftermarket fabricators offer to cross drill your factory rotors. If you simply have your OEM rotors cross drilled you are risking life and limb. The heat that you will subject your OEM rotors to will weaken the integrity of the metal and it will eventually fracture. If you have some of the "Show Rotors" installed please be aware that if the cross drilled patterns is cut through one of the vent ribs it will also weaken the rotor. These "Show Rotors" are fine if you are building a show piece but they are not safe for a daily driver.
Second, about the surface area... I'm actually referring to the "cooling" surface area of the rotor. A professionally manufactured cross drilled rotor is made to utilize the vent ribs (you will see them when you look at the rotors edge, they join the inside and outside surfaces together) to force air in between the inside and outside of the rotor and through the cross drilled holes, that is how the cooling area is maximized. The holes actually force air in between the rotor/pad contact area which is where the most heat is generated. (More cooling surface area) If you are driving an LS430 you also have air ducts vented in from the front air dam and in through the wheel wells that are directed at your rotors to increase the induction of cool air. Coupled with a nice set of cross drilled rotors your brakes should operate at about 250 degrees cooler. That will lengthen the life expectancy of your rotors. In comparison to the OEM rotors you will still have the air induction coming across your rotors but you will not have the vents forcing air in between the pad/rotor contact area because they are not equipped with the cross drilled rotors.
One last note, not all cross drilled rotors are functional. I have seen several models with some pretty fancy patterns (I'll call them "Show Rotors") and I have even seen some aftermarket fabricators offer to cross drill your factory rotors. If you simply have your OEM rotors cross drilled you are risking life and limb. The heat that you will subject your OEM rotors to will weaken the integrity of the metal and it will eventually fracture. If you have some of the "Show Rotors" installed please be aware that if the cross drilled patterns is cut through one of the vent ribs it will also weaken the rotor. These "Show Rotors" are fine if you are building a show piece but they are not safe for a daily driver.
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