How to test - OEM audio system
#1
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How to test - OEM audio system
We decided to go back to the stock stereo in the '92 today. It has the Pioneer system in it. I was shocked at how good it sounds but it lacked the bass. I put my finger on the sub and it is not moving. I also found the amp and it is plugged in. Now, when I pulled the cluster out to remove the aftermarket stereo I disconnected the dash/plug kit to get to the factory stuff (thank God they used a kit) I noticed the plugs to go to the back of the factory stereo. I plugged them all in and I barely got sound out of it. There are two plugs below and to the right and left of the main power and speaker plugs. I pulled the one out that is on the passenger side and nothing, then pulled the other and bingo, music. I plugged the passenger side one back in and it silenced for a second but kicked back on, then plugged in the other and back to silence. So, naturally I left that one unplugged. Any thoughts on that?
Anyway. Is their a way to test to see if it is the amp or the sub not working? I used a meter to check for power to the plug by process of elimination I found 12.06 volts so I assume the amp its getting power. I've heard that the speakers get trashed due to location but shouldn't a blown out speaker at least move a little? I'm no audio expert so maybe someone can chime in so I don't throw money at it. I really don't want to spend a ton of money to get a sub back in there but it would be nice to have a little punch to compliment the rest of the audio.
Anyway. Is their a way to test to see if it is the amp or the sub not working? I used a meter to check for power to the plug by process of elimination I found 12.06 volts so I assume the amp its getting power. I've heard that the speakers get trashed due to location but shouldn't a blown out speaker at least move a little? I'm no audio expert so maybe someone can chime in so I don't throw money at it. I really don't want to spend a ton of money to get a sub back in there but it would be nice to have a little punch to compliment the rest of the audio.
Last edited by RA40; 11-01-15 at 05:07 PM. Reason: descriptive title
#2
Yes good they used a kit. I wish I had info on the radio etc. that is the most difficult thing to find info on.
I agree the factory system is just great, it has the same capability to cause deafness that some people seem to desire.
I agree the factory system is just great, it has the same capability to cause deafness that some people seem to desire.
#3
I remember on my 94 the amount of bass left something to be desired but if you've ever seen/heard a car with a rattling trunk it's due to a lack of sound dampening material lining the panels, which is something an LS definitely doesn't lack. Mine had a pioneer system as well and I have some experience with car audio (even worked on a MTX equipped Chevy S10)...but I didn't modify it too much because of the complexity and the fact that it was decent enough to not be worth the trouble of trying to fit a sub in the same place as the OEM one. Where can I find out more info about your setup to see if it's an easy fix?
#4
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I need a diagram to see what all that harness controls. It could be the phone harness as I see the two antennas on that side as well. I did a quick after googling and it said to have a meter set on AC voltage and place it on the terminals. Once you get a reading multiply it by itself then divide by the ohm rating on the speak and you'll get output. I was getting a big fat 0. Of course it is a small amp and that meter is cheap so it could have been such a small reading it did not pick it up but I had it on the 250VAC scale. I found a amp on ebay for $30 and it is up in Chattanooga so I'll give it a shot. I also found a couple speakers but lexles.com had a kicker speaker in his write up that I could get. I have a 10 kicker in a nice box I could throw in there to see. I should have done that. We had that box that is a kicker box, a old school killer rockford fosgate T3002 and a pioneer head unit that was in the car but after hearing what it sounded like stock and with the chance to get a little bass that was fine for me and my son who at the end of the month will get the car as he gets his permit. I'm putting all that other stuff up for sale. If anyone finds that diagram please let me know. Thanks.
#5
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I think I figured it out. One thing I mentioned was that with that plug in the sound went away. Very muted. I think I found the diagram I found answered my question. For some reason with that plug plugged in the system thinks I'm getting a call on the phone that is no longer in the car and mutes the stereo. It does not say mute on the display but you can faintly hear the music thru the speakers. Now I need to know how to disable that feature.
#7
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Got it working. Unplugged the harness in the console and the ECU in the trunk for the phone. I have to I'm impressed with it. I owned a 92 Maxima back in 94 that had the Bose system and I think this one blows it away. Since everything works he can focus on upgrading the speakers if he pleases to but I think other things are going to be a priority.
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#8
Got it working. Unplugged the harness in the console and the ECU in the trunk for the phone. I have to I'm impressed with it. I owned a 92 Maxima back in 94 that had the Bose system and I think this one blows it away. Since everything works he can focus on upgrading the speakers if he pleases to but I think other things are going to be a priority.
#9
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The thing with the Bose in that car is it had great bass. That was until one of the rear speakers blew and no one had a replacement and Nissan wanted $500+ for one because you had to buy the amp too. I remember spending a day sorting out the wiring and going aftermarket. Only thing is I have yet to find a aftermarket stereo that I liked to look at in a dash. Bose did it without a sub like the Lexus but the Pioneer has a more crisp sound. I'd love to hear that Nak............. (dont know how to spell it) system.
#10
Where did you get the diagram? Did you completely unplug everything from the phone box in the trunk? It is more than a phone "amp" its the transceiver unit and has an antenna connector. I have one that is also muted some, it is one of those last on my list to fix deals.
#11
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I unplugged the printer cable cord from the phone box and then there was a board in the console that I unplugged. Don't know which one did it but the sub came back to life. Wasted $30 on a amp cause I was impatient. Oh well, more spare parts.
#13
So it won't work with just unplugging the trunk unit then? Which side and up or down on the back of the radio,
that is like looking through the radio as if it is invisible while sitting in the driver seat.
that is like looking through the radio as if it is invisible while sitting in the driver seat.
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