engine will not turn over after replacing bulb in shifter
#17
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Hello Steve:
,
I followed the instructions you provided and discovered that I have 10.5 volts at the harness connector's st terminal to the anti theft ECU on the 94 LS 400.
But Yamae insists it is AM2 fuse. My question is, If the st pin should complete the ground to the starter relay why then would my instrument clusrer extinguish when I shift into Park or neutral but light up when I shift into any other gear?
It would seem as though if AM2 were open that would not happen,
Does the antitheft ECU also prevent current from flowing to the PNP switch when antitheft is activated, AND voltage to the relay coil rather than supplying ground to the starter relay coil. Does it do both of those things and not merely what is stated in that PDR you sent me
If it does do both then it looks like I need to get another antitheft ECU. Strange that I cannot just reset the antitheft ECU.
A bonified ECU engineer would know all this stuff, too bad we do not have one on this website
,
I followed the instructions you provided and discovered that I have 10.5 volts at the harness connector's st terminal to the anti theft ECU on the 94 LS 400.
But Yamae insists it is AM2 fuse. My question is, If the st pin should complete the ground to the starter relay why then would my instrument clusrer extinguish when I shift into Park or neutral but light up when I shift into any other gear?
It would seem as though if AM2 were open that would not happen,
Does the antitheft ECU also prevent current from flowing to the PNP switch when antitheft is activated, AND voltage to the relay coil rather than supplying ground to the starter relay coil. Does it do both of those things and not merely what is stated in that PDR you sent me
If it does do both then it looks like I need to get another antitheft ECU. Strange that I cannot just reset the antitheft ECU.
A bonified ECU engineer would know all this stuff, too bad we do not have one on this website
#18
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Thread Starter
and also removed the white plastic cover from the interlock to have a look at the guts.
The interlock is nothing more than an electromagnet controlled by that two wire connector.
It is completely different from the PNP switch that merely has current going through it.
While I can bypasss the PNP switch by just eliminating it from the electrical circuit and connectiing those two wires that went to it together, this cannot be done to the interlock or I will certainly short out the computer shift lock control module. Which I think I did, because before I learned all of this I tried exactly what you suggested!!!!
Right now I am headed to a wrecking yard that has a 94 to return the starter that I thought was the problem and get the antitheft ECU and a shift lock control module and install them.
Then if it is still not working I will jack it up, get under it, and bypass the the PNP.
If I still have no power to starter.....hmmm I do not know, the ignition switch itself maybe...but I cannot see how sqeezing a tiny bulb with pliers would do this much damage. It has got to be a relay somewhere else, or a blown fuse in a strange place that I am not aware of. I will worry about that later.
I have to go to work today at 2:30 so I doubt I will finsh this until Friday.
Thanks again for that PDR above, THAT made the difference.
Last edited by freegard; 01-02-13 at 08:22 AM.
#19
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Thread Starter
As Kansas suggests there is a possibility that the shift starter inhibitor switch has been damaged,misaligned or has trapped/damaged wiring.
Perhaps disconnecting the battery in future before commencing any electrical work would save you having problems with blown fuses after removing bulbs with pliers.
Page 12 of the link below shows the 12 volt supply from the 30A fuse and then to the ignition switch, 7.5A fuse, neutral switch, starter relay and finally yhe starter motor so you need to check for the voltage at each point.
Perhaps disconnecting the battery in future before commencing any electrical work would save you having problems with blown fuses after removing bulbs with pliers.
Page 12 of the link below shows the 12 volt supply from the 30A fuse and then to the ignition switch, 7.5A fuse, neutral switch, starter relay and finally yhe starter motor so you need to check for the voltage at each point.
This is thanks to moderator Steve; he supplied me with a pdf troubleshooting the starter circuit.
I followed it and WOW, made my life a whole lot easier.
Well, if he is not a moderator he should be.
THANK YOU STEVE, YOU'RE THE *****!
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