95 spring and shock replacement question
#1
Lead Lap
Thread Starter
95 spring and shock replacement question
are the steps to remove the front shocks on my 95 ls400 the same as the first gen or in the lexls tutorial? http://www.lexls.com/tutorials/suspension/fshock.html
Is there a good tutorial somewhere for the 2nd gen front and rear shock replacement?
Is there a good tutorial somewhere for the 2nd gen front and rear shock replacement?
#2
Lexus Test Driver
iTrader: (18)
are the steps to remove the front shocks on my 95 ls400 the same as the first gen or in the lexls tutorial? http://www.lexls.com/tutorials/suspension/fshock.html
Is there a good tutorial somewhere for the 2nd gen front and rear shock replacement?
Is there a good tutorial somewhere for the 2nd gen front and rear shock replacement?
#3
Lead Lap
Thread Starter
Thank you. Thats what I thought.
And I found a tutorial to convert the air suspension for the 95 and that has me confident enough to do it. I dont have air suspension but it will work.
And I found a tutorial to convert the air suspension for the 95 and that has me confident enough to do it. I dont have air suspension but it will work.
#5
Lead Lap
Thread Starter
So this shouldnt be too bad.
If I take my back seat out beforehand, any idea how long this should take for front and rear?
My bolts will probably be pretty rusty.
#6
Driver
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I dealt with rusty bolts. I managed the fronts in maybe 4-6 hours, but the rears took a week or so to do, working nights as I'd get a bit of time. Rust sucks.
Just saying this so you are ready in case it's not all smooth sailing.
Stan
Just saying this so you are ready in case it's not all smooth sailing.
Stan
#7
Lead Lap
Thread Starter
could you drive it half completed?
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#8
Driver
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The worst for me were rear shock lower bolts. The left rear one was locked in by rust, would spin but not come out. Both of my rear springs were snapped too, the highest coils broke off and were stuck in the tophats.
I'd attack the fronts first. The stock springs are long, getting them on the new shock will take some work, too.
Stan
I'd attack the fronts first. The stock springs are long, getting them on the new shock will take some work, too.
Stan
#10
Lead Lap
Thread Starter
We have plenty of pb blaster and free so thats covered.
And im doing a complete sway to kyb and tanabe df210 with all new insulators, bumpers and mounts.
A shop will put them together so I wont even have to mess with that.
I dont plan to do it this way but do you think there would be a problem if I lowered the front first then drove for a day or two before doing the rear?
And im doing a complete sway to kyb and tanabe df210 with all new insulators, bumpers and mounts.
A shop will put them together so I wont even have to mess with that.
I dont plan to do it this way but do you think there would be a problem if I lowered the front first then drove for a day or two before doing the rear?
#12
Lead Lap
Thread Starter
I did the front today in 2.5 hours. It wasnt bad at all with an impact wrench. I think this job would be impossible without one.
Tomorrow Ill do the rear. Back seats are out already.
Is there anything more to it than removing the lower shock bolt and 3 shock mount bolts? Or are there other steps like in the front?
Tomorrow Ill do the rear. Back seats are out already.
Is there anything more to it than removing the lower shock bolt and 3 shock mount bolts? Or are there other steps like in the front?
#13
BahHumBug
iTrader: (10)
if you want to do the rears without removing an axle or disconnecting a ball joint, take a big pry bar and lever the entire carrier down after removing the bolts holding the spring/shock in place, then feed the lower part of the assy. towards the inside of the car (centerline) and that way you can pull it out flat.
#14
Lead Lap
Thread Starter
if you want to do the rears without removing an axle or disconnecting a ball joint, take a big pry bar and lever the entire carrier down after removing the bolts holding the spring/shock in place, then feed the lower part of the assy. towards the inside of the car (centerline) and that way you can pull it out flat.
And removing a ball joint isnt that big of an issue. I rented the ball joint puller kit from advance auto to do the front and I still have that.
#15
Lead Lap
Thread Starter
I thought the front might be possible withought removing the ball joint too.
is that so?