Strut Rod and ball joint replacement
02-27-04, 11:28 PM
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Strut Rod and ball joint replacement
I'm a new '95 LS400 owner. The lower ball joints and strut rods need replacement. After doing much searhing in the archives here, I haven't come across anyone describing the process. I can do the job myself, but I was wondering when I disconnect the strut/shock assembly. that I won't get that immediately in my face. Will that assembly need to be compressed when re-assembling? Just looking for a little direction here. Will I need a press to remove the ball joint, or can I just knock it out?? Can I use a pickle fork to remove the steering knuckle from the ball joint, as well as the tie rod?? Thanks in advance!!!! 
Last edited by kubys; 02-28-04 at 07:20 AM.
02-29-04, 05:55 AM
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Not difficult
I will try to answer.
The lower ball joints and strut rods need replacement. After doing much searching in the archives here, I haven't come across anyone describing the process. I can do the job myself, but I was wondering when I disconnect the strut/shock assembly. that I won't get that immediately in my face.
I assume you are talking about removing the shock/spring assembly as one unit. The assembly is held together by the center top bolt on your top shock mount. The shock top mount itself is bolted onto the inner fender by three bolts equally spaced on the periphery of the mount. As long as you don't undo the center bolt, the shock/spring assembly stays together. Remove the three outside bolts from the top shock mount (leave the center bolt on) and remove the one bolt from the bottom shock mount and the shock/spring assembly comes out in one piece.
Will that assembly need to be compressed when re-assembling?
Unless you are planning on replacing the shocks You don't need anything to put the shock/spring assembly back in. If you are going to replace the shocks, then you will need a spring compressor. ( I recommend the OEM shocks as they are the cheapest and still keep the smooth ride characteristics)
Just looking for a little direction here. Will I need a press to remove the ball joint, or can I just knock it out??
I used a 6" gear puller to pop the old lower ball joint from the steering knuckle because it replicated the toyota special tool used in the factory manual. I took quite a bit of pressure to initially pop it off.
I use a pickle fork to remove the steering knuckle from the ball joint, as well as the tie rod??
Again I used the gear puller as it replicated the factory procedure and I knew it would not damage any of the suspension components.
The lower ball joints and strut rods need replacement. After doing much searching in the archives here, I haven't come across anyone describing the process. I can do the job myself, but I was wondering when I disconnect the strut/shock assembly. that I won't get that immediately in my face.
I assume you are talking about removing the shock/spring assembly as one unit. The assembly is held together by the center top bolt on your top shock mount. The shock top mount itself is bolted onto the inner fender by three bolts equally spaced on the periphery of the mount. As long as you don't undo the center bolt, the shock/spring assembly stays together. Remove the three outside bolts from the top shock mount (leave the center bolt on) and remove the one bolt from the bottom shock mount and the shock/spring assembly comes out in one piece.
Will that assembly need to be compressed when re-assembling?
Unless you are planning on replacing the shocks You don't need anything to put the shock/spring assembly back in. If you are going to replace the shocks, then you will need a spring compressor. ( I recommend the OEM shocks as they are the cheapest and still keep the smooth ride characteristics)
Just looking for a little direction here. Will I need a press to remove the ball joint, or can I just knock it out??
I used a 6" gear puller to pop the old lower ball joint from the steering knuckle because it replicated the toyota special tool used in the factory manual. I took quite a bit of pressure to initially pop it off.
I use a pickle fork to remove the steering knuckle from the ball joint, as well as the tie rod??
Again I used the gear puller as it replicated the factory procedure and I knew it would not damage any of the suspension components.
03-01-04, 07:25 AM
#4
Another vote: Not Difficult
Seconding Clark:
This is a pleasant job; Lexus guys realy thought this through.
When I did it, I found no need to remove the strut assy (as the manual sugests); when everything drops down, it all is amazingly stress free and not bound up. So no heavy straining is required. Easiest front end I ever worked on.
I vote strongly you buy the right size tie-rod end puller: it was only $11.00 or so at AutoZone. Much better than pickle fork if you're not wanting to destroy the rubber boots (and a lot less strain if you're working at ground level like me).
Ball joint is held with 2 bolts: no pressing or big force involved.
Enjoy; you will love the results.
NC356
This is a pleasant job; Lexus guys realy thought this through.
When I did it, I found no need to remove the strut assy (as the manual sugests); when everything drops down, it all is amazingly stress free and not bound up. So no heavy straining is required. Easiest front end I ever worked on.
I vote strongly you buy the right size tie-rod end puller: it was only $11.00 or so at AutoZone. Much better than pickle fork if you're not wanting to destroy the rubber boots (and a lot less strain if you're working at ground level like me).
Ball joint is held with 2 bolts: no pressing or big force involved.
Enjoy; you will love the results.
NC356
03-01-04, 09:00 AM
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nc356,
I agree with you wholeheartedly!!!! I did 1 side yesterday and it is the easiest front end to work on. I used 2 different sized pitman arm pullers to bust the ball joint and tie rod loose. Now I can do the other side in half the time. I cleaned up everything while I was in there as well. I can already tell the difference even though 1 side is done. Thanks for the encouragement!!!!!
Kubys
I agree with you wholeheartedly!!!! I did 1 side yesterday and it is the easiest front end to work on. I used 2 different sized pitman arm pullers to bust the ball joint and tie rod loose. Now I can do the other side in half the time. I cleaned up everything while I was in there as well. I can already tell the difference even though 1 side is done. Thanks for the encouragement!!!!!
Kubys
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